Heating options for new build (Anchorage, Fairbanks: for sale, power lines, co-op)

[keyman51]

We have a Quadrafire, which has the highest energy efficiency rating. At one time there was a refund given to those that bought the stove. We burn anything from cottonwood to birch in the stove and have been very happy with it. It should have no problems with the burn time at 8 hours or more.

[Music_Man]

Originally Posted by Music_Man

Here is a chart of the specs of Nordic stoves.Attachment 165801

No electricity required!

[riceme]

Oh, I just went back up and read the part about you looking at the old Blaze King your buddy's selling. The old ones are not like the new ones and not even close to being as efficient. I had one of the old ones in a place I rented before I moved up here. I was not very fond of that stove.

[RayinAK]

Originally Posted by 6.7traveler

I live in an unorganized borough outside of delta. They will never organize into a borough or issue burn bans out here without WW3 breaking out . I'm pretty sure it's required to have at least one bright yellow NO BOROUGH sticker on your vehicle at all times to live here.

I was under the impression that there are drip oil heaters that don't use any electricity. A friend of mine has an off grid cabin with a toyo heater that I thought doesn't use any electricty as he leaves it on while he's gone and has no power. It looks like a little wood stove. Maybe I'm wrong as I really don't know a thing about oil heaters. I definitely would not be interested in an oil heater unless I could find one that doesn't require electricity.

I'm leaning towards just biting the bullet and buying a blaze king. I'll check out this used one and will look for others as well. If that doesn't work, I'll sell a kidney on the black market and go to woodway.

A wood stove would be a great idea around Delta Junction, since you don't live in Fairbanks and North Pole. Look into a Blaze King. And yes, there are drip stoves, some of which are really nice. I believe that the one Music_Man is referring to is a good one.

Keep something else in mind about insulation. A home that is well insulate and has no drafts from cracks on the walls and so forth, needs some ventilation to prevent mold from growing on the walls and ceiling. Also, the stoves will need air coming into the house, otherwise you won't be able to create a draft for the wood in the stove to burn. You can find all the details at the Cold Climate Research Center (the link I posted for you).

This is for the Nordic Stove Music Man is referring to:
http://www.stevestoyostove.com/nordi...ordicstove.pdf

6. COMBUSTION AIR: All fuel-burning devices require sufficient oxygen. If the structure or location is well sealed against air infiltration, it may be necessary to make some provision to allow combustion air to enter the room or structure near the NordicStove. The Basic, Deluxe, and Rustic models have a connection near the bottom of the stove for a pipe to provide direct flow of air to the NordicStove. This energy-saving feature can reduce your fuel consumption and eliminate drafts in the structure. See INSTALLATION Section IV. Page 5 for details.

The wood stove should also have a fresh air connection near the bottom from bringing outside via a pipe air to the stove.

[Metlakatla]

I like some of the yurts I've seen, but we're talking about a place where the winter winds can and do blow around 100 mph more than just a few times a year. Wouldn't yurts blow away?

[Rance]

A buddy gave me a blaze king...which I had to drag out of his swamp, patch a few holes and give it a new paint job. We heat our 20' x 30' log cabin with it and it works great. Too great if not careful. That thing roasts us out if we don't build just a small fire in it. It is brick lined but in no way gets 20 hours of burn time. If I choke it down there might be some coals in the morning. But it is an older model and I have no damper on the pipe, just the damper built onto the back of the stove. SOB weighs like 400 lbs with the bricks in it. Took 4 of us to carry it up the beach and into the cabin! Mine also has an 8" exhaust. 6" might be better if that option is out there. Might be less draft through the stove and out the chimney.

[RayinAK]

I just noticed the screw-up on the last sentence I wrote on my last post.

The wood stove should also have a fresh air connection near the bottom from bringing outside via a pipe air to the stove.

Should have written, "...connection near the bottom for bringing outside air to the stove via a pipe."

That's the way mine is setup, but I also have an air damper on the pipe behind the stove. I just open the damper, and fresh air from outside comes into the stove through the pipe.

[Rance]

I thought about rigging up something like Ray. Use outside air rather than the warm air already in the cabin! Which just draws in more outside air through doors and windows.

[6.7traveler]

Thanks for the advice everyone. A fresh air intake to the wood stove would be a good idea. I do have an exhaust fan that I use to circulate new air in everyday.

I just called woodway to get a quote on the blaze king princess of $2600.

[Rance]

Ouch. But in the long run you might save that much in fuel over a couple years?