The Last Frontier! (Anchorage, Fairbanks, Bethel: truck rental, rental, to buy)

[j1n]

Alright good folks of Alaska…I’m here for your help…to pick your brains and to gather any info that you care to dispense. So kick back, crack a cold one, and read on…

My best friend and I have been doing these “bro-downs” for the last couple of years. Basically, we have simple standards…extreme solitude and breathtaking natural beauty. He’s a photographer and I take pictures. Two years ago, we headed south from Salt Lake, down to Moab, up into the Sierra LaSals, and then across into the San Juans of CO. Last year, it was the Bighorns, Wind Rivers, Tetons, and Absarokas of Wyoming.
We both grew up hiking and camping. He’s kept up the hiking end of things more as an adult. His main thing has always been skiing...heliskiing, etc. He has spent a little time in AK…including sea kayaking in Harriman Fjord in Prince William Sound and heliskiing near Alyeska. I have some background in rock climbing. We are both in our 30’s, with wives and kids, and I’d say we both have pretty good heads on our shoulders. We know our limits too, and respect them. In addition, we both have an enormous respect and love for the natural world that we’ve been put in.

“Bro-down ‘08” was supposed to be a return trip to the Wind Rivers and a hike into Cirque of the Towers. Due to my recent relocation, and his impending relo back out to the SLC area, it may be put on hold.

So that brings us to “Bro-down ‘09”. We want to get out there…the wildest we can. The final frontier. Now this is still in the infant planning stages, but here’s what we are thinking…

We both fly into Anchorage, where we will crash with a close friend of my buddy’s. We rent a 4wd vehicle like we’ve done the other trips. We drive up to Healy and hike into Denali Natl Park for @ 4-5 days (round trip). Then…???? Drive somewhere else and hike and camp somewhere else, etc. But no tourist-y stuff.

What would be our optimum time frame for a two week trip like this? A concern would be crossing swollen streams, so I’m thinking that Spring thaw is out. We are both ok with cold weather camping, but don’t have much of a driving interest in winter camping. From a photography standpoint, snow on mountains works well…especially when combined with clear skies and warmer weather. What are your suggestions? What might be a good “window” to shoot for? How do your seasons run (keeping in mind that it is Alaska and anything can happen at anytime with no set rules regarding what's "supposed to happen" with the weather.) How would you fill up 10+ days after Denali?
Hope there is some great forthcoming advice. Maybe we'll even meet up to buy ya a beer or 3 while we're there.

[Xa'at]

Space, the final frontier.
These are the voyages of the Starship Enterprise.
Her five year mission: to explore strange new worlds.
To seek out new life and new civilizations.
To boldly go where no man has gone before.
...
...

Okay, moving on.
So, there's going to be snow on those mountains anytime you go. There'll be more in the winter, but I really don't think you want to camp Denali in the winter. It would be quite cold!
I think summer would be your best bet. Highest chances to see wildlife, more greenery, etc. If you really like it, you can always come back again in winter, although I honestly don't know if they close some parts of the park in winter like they do Yellowstone.
If you have extra time, you should also hike the Chilkoot. Historical and beautiful.
Check out these links:
Chilkoot Trail Album
National Park Service - Chilkoot Trail

[Marty Van Diest]

Read this website about a guy that just completed a hike across Alaska.

[cobolt]

Originally Posted by Marty Van Diest

Read this website about a guy that just completed a hike across Alaska.

Wow....what a remarkable trip! I love to read stories about people with know-how, common sense, and planning who do these trips....

[Barkingowl]

Originally Posted by Marty Van Diest

Read this website about a guy that just completed a hike across Alaska.

That was really Marty!

[j1n]

hey xa'at...
yeah. good catch on the sad star trek faux pas! Thanks for the good info. Chilkoot sounds interesting. The only problem is it looks like there are loads of folks heading for it. They "release" something like 50 backpackers at a time. It sounds a little crowded to me. I also don't want to put in the miles between Denali and there.

and marty...
thanks for that link. lots of info there...I'll be going back to that from time to time to absorb it.

[Xa'at]

Originally Posted by j1n

hey xa'at...
yeah. good catch on the sad star trek faux pas! Thanks for the good info. Chilkoot sounds interesting. The only problem is it looks like there are loads of folks heading for it. They "release" something like 50 backpackers at a time. It sounds a little crowded to me. I also don't want to put in the miles between Denali and there.

Well, it's not really an Alaska trip if you only see Anc and Denali! You're missing the best part.
After you're done with Denali, finish the drive up to Fairbanks then head south for Whitehorse, and on to Skagway. Hike the Chilkoot then take the ferry to Juneau where you can fly out.

[Floyd_Davidson]

Originally Posted by j1n

We both fly into Anchorage, where we will crash with aof my buddy’s. We rent a 4wd vehicle like we’ve done the other trips. We drive up to Healy and hike into Denali Natl Park for @ 4-5 days (round trip). Then…???? Drive somewhere else and hike and camp somewhere else, etc. But no tourist-y stuff.

You've just contradicted yourself. "No tourist-y stuff", but you described the most touristy possible two weeks in "Alaska".

A few points to note:

1) If you can drive to it, all of the tourists are driving too it.

2) Fairbanks is more or less a 360 mile drive from Anchorage that might get you a cheaper airplane ticket to Alaska. (Might not too.)

3) In the Lower-48 it might be that the most exciting thing to do is find a place with the least indication of humanity; but in Alaska you would be a lot better off visiting with people (they aren't anything like the people in the Lower-48, so you would still manage to "get away from it all").

To put that into perspective, if you want to drive around Alaska, why not stay home! There's just as much, probably within 100 miles or so, road to look at there as there is here. It's all the same.

But if you come to Alaska, get on an airplane and go see the part that isn't anything like what you have near where you live.

Visit Bethel, Kotzebue or Barrow for two weeks. Less distinct, but still fairly different are Nome, Dillingham and Cordova. And if you've really got brass, spend two weeks in Kipnuk, Point Lay, Venetie, or Shishmaref.

Why spend all that money to come here and then not experience what is uniquely different here????

[j1n]

Originally Posted by Floyd_Davidson

You've just contradicted yourself. "No tourist-y stuff", but you described the most touristy possible two weeks in "Alaska".
Why spend all that money to come here and then not experience what is uniquely different here????

hey Floyd...
I have no problem interacting with locals. And I'm sure they are nothing like the folks I am used to interacting with. What I don't want to end up doing is falling in with any guided tour groups, etc. That's what I meant by "tourist-y". I would think that backpacking into the backcountry around the only 20,000 foot peak on the continent would count as "unique" and "non-touristy"...at least for me. We're looking for some other suggestions for hiking and camping besides the DNP area, and specifically some insight on seasons, weather, best time to visit, etc. As far as spending money to get there, we're planning this so far in advance that we aren't going to be paying outrageous ticket prices. We will be bringing our own gear, so besides the truck rental and gas...we're not gonna break the bank. And we will be flying into Anchorage as we have an aquaintance there.

[Xa'at]

Originally Posted by j1n

As far as spending money to get there, we're planning this so far in advance that we aren't going to be paying outrageous ticket prices. We will be bringing our own gear, so besides the truck rental and gas...we're not gonna break the bank. And we will be flying into Anchorage as we have an aquaintance there.

Anyone who doesn't think their Alaska adventure is going to break the bank is either deluding herself or is Bill Gates.
It's expensive up here. Even if you are flying into Anchorage, Alaska Air is going to rob you blind. You aren't going to be able to lug your food up on the plane, so you'll have to buy it here... the list goes on and on.
I don't mean to discourage you from coming, just a little reality check.