Alaska ferry (Juneau and, Sitka and, Ketchikan: luxury, hotels, travel)

[barbarakessel]

I'm thinking of signing up for the 8 day ferry trip from Bellingham to Skagway. Does anyone have experience with what the cabins are like on the ferry? What about the food and the overall experience? Is it comfortable?

[megensmom]

EXPENSIVE is all I can say. I have never been on the ferry but have done some reading about it and from their site things are pretty expensive. There is also info here about it. I hear it is beautiful but expensive.

[Xa'at]

Eight days, my lord!
It's three [full] days, max, m'dear.

I dug up some of what I have written in the past on the subject...

Originally Posted by Xa'at

The max for an inside passage voyage (BEL->SKG) is three days. The vast majority of people get off in Ketchikan (1.5 days) or Juneau (2.5 days).

History Lesson!
The Malaspina is the oldest mainline vessel in the AMHS fleet. She was built in the early sixties, followed by her sister ship the Matanuska. She's undergone some major overhauls in the past- including being lengthened by 54 ft. She was retired to feeder routes in 1998 then returned to active mainline service soon after. She has been in service for over forty years, ten longer than the flagship Columbia.

Originally Posted by Xa'at

Regarding the marine portion of the trip...
If you leave towards the end of January you will be riding on the Mal, which leaves at six in the evening every Friday, and arrives in Haines at one in the afternoon on Monday. For someone unused to ferries, it can be a long ride and you will DEFINITELY want to pack some seasickness medicine, even if you've never had a problem before. There is a short stretch crossing the Sitka sound that can be brutal, and the Mal is not as big as the vessel that usually makes this voyage, the Columbia (which is currently in for repairs).
You didn't mention whether you are traveling with kids, but if you are, reserve a cabin, it will save your life. You will need to buy your tickets in advance, though. As soon as you have a concrete date, go buy your tickets. The prices are the same whenever you book, but you are guaranteed to get a room you want, as they sell out quickly. In the summer you can pitch a tent on the solarium out on deck, but in winter you'd be ill-advised to try this. As a general rule, there is a room full of reclining chairs designed specifically for non-cabin passengers, but it's surprisingly normal for people to claim a sleeping spot pretty much "where they land". It's kind of like downtown Juneau right after happy hour at the Alaskan.
There are [shared] bathroom facilities and showers available, as well as a cafeteria, but the food is really expensive (just our way of saying "Welcome to Alaska!") so bring what you can. There are scheduled times when you can go down to the car deck and take things out of your car, so you don't have to pack everything around. Be aware that if you have a pet it must stay on the car deck, which is not climate controlled, and could easily freeze during the winter.
Best of luck!

Originally Posted by Xa'at

Indeed. I am actually on the ferry right now- the M/V Malaspina. Looking out the window, I see some lights so I believe we are currently sailing through the Narrows! Yikes.
Now, enjoy my little essay about ferries, rendered here for you in beautiful Century Gothic font and replete with expressive smilies...

Ten tips for being a happy ferrygoer
Xa'at, 2008

1.) Walk aboard. If you are bringing a car on, have one person drive it on and everyone else walk on. They let walk ons on first, so you have the advantage in getting a prime spot. Upon boarding, proceed directly to the "reclining lounge" (usually on the top floor) and snag a table, or two if you need it. Tables have windows, outlets, and the benches are much more comfortable to sleep on than the floor or one of the "recliners".
OR
Sleep on the solarium. It's the very top deck, a semi-enclosed space shielded from the wind but still "outside". There are heat lamps, but apparently they don't use them in the winter. However, if you have a sleeping bag, it's really not bad. There are lawn chair-style recliners for your use, but they fill up fast in the summer so the above rules apply.

2.) Bring an inflatable air mattress. Even more comfortable than tables.

3.) If you have a kid, for the sake of everyone else, rent a cabin. With the cabin you get your own private washroom, real beds (bunks) and space to spread out. Yes, they cost extra. Yes, they are worth it.

4.) If you rent a cabin... Bring your own sheets. The laundry detergent that AMHS uses on their bedding is very harsh, and doesn't really go well with children or sensitive people, especially sensitive children. It wasn't until halfway through my first trip on the ferry that we figured out why I was so sick and itchy.

5.) One word: dramamine. Don't get those little drops that go behind your ear- buy the real deal. If you don't use it, fine, but trust me, you don't want to find out on the ferry that you get motion sick. It's not a pretty picture.

6.) Bring stuff to entertain yourself, and your children. They do show movies in the little theatre, but outside of that there is very little to do. At the very least, pack a few books, a deck of cards, a cd/mp3 player, and some variety of uno.

7.) Leave unnecessary valuables in your car. If you bring a computer, mp3 player, etc aboard, carry it with you at all times or lock it up. There are lockers available for $.25 a usage that fit quite a bit of stuff.

8.) Bring munchies. There are signs everywhere saying that food cannot be consumed outside of the cafeteria, but this is not heavily enforced. Just don't make a mess.

9.) If you are vegetarian (or kosher), you may have a difficult time finding something appropriate to eat. I've had grilled cheese sandwiches at least twice a day since I've been here! Bring aboard fresh veggies to munch on, and watch the menu. There is usually something meatless on the menu, even if it is just a soup or steamed veggies.

Finally, the most important rule:
8.) Do not, DO NOT, forget your sense of humor. Riding the ferry can be a blast, even with children, but you have to remember, above all, that it is basic transportation. If you come aboard expecting luxury, you may wish to simply jump off the side. Enjoy the view, read the seafood posters, visit the towns along the way- it's the ALASKAN EXPERIENCE!

Phew, I think I'm getting carpal tunnel. These damn seasickness wristbands I'm wearing are obnoxious... but I ran out of dramamine. @ self.

Originally Posted by Xa'at

Docked at the Bellingham Cruise Terminal.


Bellingham Cruise Terminal.


Bellingham Cruise Terminal.


Life raft.



Cafeteria.


Bow. No, you cannot go and stand there. The place where I was standing when taking this picture is as close as you can get.


Forward observation lounge.


Showers. BYOsoap.


Stairwell. In rough seas, those railings are a lifesaver.


Reclining lounge. This is where you'll sleep, unless you have a cabin. Note the lockers in the far upper-left corner. Also lifesavers.


Lobby outside the forward observation lounge.

Fare Info:Alaska Marine Highway System :: Alaska DOT&PF
Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to go to my art history class.

[Rance]

I can see your reflection in the window Xa'at!

And those are absolutely the ugliest Caribou I have ever seen.

[DannyL]

8 days sounds about right, considering layovers. You'll probably change ferry's at least once, maybe twice, probably in Juneau and Haines.
Book early, and call the 800#. They have the latest skinny on what's happening, and can help you you more than the web site can.
The ferry price is fairly reasonable, all things considered. Taking a car is spendy, especially getting a cabin. Avoid a cabin unless someone else is paying for it. You'll get lonely and bored, and the solarium is more fun. It's free, kinda like camping, bring a sleeping bag and grab a lounge chair. Dpon't have a bag? Blankets and pillows can be rented for a buck.
Now about the layovers, the ferry is not a cruise line. When you reach a port for a night layover, they're NOT putting you up. You're on the dock on your own. So plan in advance.
You can bring your own food, or eat in the cafeteria.
Just remember, the ferry system is NOT a cruise line, it's a transportation system. Rather spartan, but it is fun.
Anything else, just ask, you didn't give too many details.

[DannyL]

are you talking 8 days round trip? I maybe misread it at first, thought you were going farther, but then the ferry schedule is cut back a bunch.

[Xa'at]

Originally Posted by Rance

I can see your reflection in the window Xa'at!

And those are absolutely the ugliest Caribou I have ever seen.

You cannot! Goddesses don't make reflections, remember...?

Danny- [s]he didn't specify roundtrip or one way, but the way it was stated it sounded to me as if [s]he thought it was 8 days one way...

[rotorhead]

If you're at all prone to sea-sickness, by all means take some meds with you. Personally, I'd skip dramamine and go with Bonine (meclizine hydrochloride) since it works just as well or better and doesn't make you as drowsy.

I'll second the recommendation of a cabin if you're traveling with kids, it's an invaluable de-compression chamber for everyone. However, cabins in the ferry are somewhat claustrophobic and typically have NO windows at all, they're basically just a metal box big enough for a bunk bed, one chair, a tiny RV-style shower and sink and they have a very low ceiling. Many of them are located near the engine room so you're definately gonna hear some rumbling, it's relaxing for some and causes near-insanity in others. They're for sleeping, period. You'll want to spend the majority of your time out and about in the ship where all the windows are.

BTW, fears of your pets freezing to death are over-rated. The car deck isn't heated like the rest of the ship but it's totally enclosed, not exposed to the weather. You can't take them aboard the rest of the ship buy you do get the chance to check on them regularly. Unless you're moving to AK I'd recommend leaving them behind when traveling on the ferry (or the airlines, for that matter).

[JustT&Me]

Go for it! But... like another poster noted, without many details about your trip, it is more difficult to provide the best info. We can all only share from our own experiences. I lived in AK a short while and am looking possibly to return. I am also fairly well-traveled. I am *not* a cruise-type person, but I greatly enjoyed the ferry system.

1. When you book your travel, you are able to stop and go as *you* choose as opposed to a cruiseline when you have to re-board on their schedule or "miss the boat." When you travel by ferry, if you find you really enjoy a particular community or village or town and want to stay longer, you can! And the price doesn't change for the ferry as it's noted by segments - unless you are booking a cabin, which I'd recommend.
2. "Comfort" is a relative term. I've traveled staying in B&Bs in EUR, and I've slept in my vehicle on the side of a turnpike, and chain hotels and motels. (And I also tent camp.) If you are someone who prefers "nicer" 5-star accommodations, want someone to schedule things for you, and have an all-inclusive package price, and entertainment provided for you, then you might prefer a cruise. But... if you are prefer Independence, being able to have flexibility to explore, rise and fall on your own schedule, and the excitement of *not* knowing what you might find once you arrive, and you don't mind carrying your own luggage (pack light), can read a schedule for yourself, and make travel plans for yourself, and perhaps even enjoy doing so, then take the ferry for a fun-filled, ever-memorable, uniquely Alaskan adventure!

I've traveled both nights on the ferry and slept on the deck in the observation areas, as well as having booked a cabin. When I booked the cabin, I used it to sleep and for the safe storage of my luggage and cameras which I wanted to re-pack once on-board from several weeks of traveling already. One on trip I took the ferry between two towns and got an Alaskan Airlines special on the return which I'd highly recommend. While ferrying up the SE Channel waters sounds really great, depending on where you are, it can look quite similar for miles and miles (hours and hours). You can get cheap flights between stops if you want to skip an area of the channel or spend a little more time in one town and exchange that time for a day in-town instead of one the boat. At least that's what I'd do if I were taking that path in one trip. I'd definitely stop in Sitka and Juneau, so maybe fly between them from one of the more Southerly ports and fly between them one-way. It'll also give you some fun flying experiences in AK!

The ferry cabins are small but not too cramped unless you are claustrophobic or have special needs. Mine was an outside cabin with a private bathroom, so no one was able to see in my window, and I was able to see the channel waters from the window (which I'd recommend). It was well-worth whatever extra I spent (visit amhs.com).

I did not have a car at the time and walked my luggage on rollers once I arrived at my destination. It was quite a bit of walking actually, but at that point I was running about 4x/week, so for me it was my exercise to walk pulling my luggage behind me. You *can* get a taxi or bus from some places, depending on where you are going. The ferry in Juneau is quite a distance from town, so plan on taking a taxi into town if you don't have a car. From Sitka, I took a bus into town as I arrived late at night and didn't want to risk meeting up with a bear while pulling my bags behind me. If I was to do it again, I'd rent a car in Sitka to get to some out-of-the-way places like the Eagle preserve or the National Totem Pole park for a nice hike through the woods there. While you're there, visit the museum - it's very nice. Low preservation lights, but some amazing cultural exhibits and a nice small store for some great souvenirs.

Going such a distance, I'd book your travel in segments instead of straight-through to give yourself the most flexibility if you've never traveled through SE AK. I have yet to visit Ketchikan, but I frequented Sitka and Juneau, have traveled Haines, Hoonah, and a few more places I don't remember. Those are the ones I do. Stop in Sitka at least one night if not two. Same with Juneau - two or three. Haines I could do in a day unless you are visiting during the Eagles (max) visit. Hoonah was a village - very small but worth a stop for its historical value.

Traveling thorugh the SE, you will need/want a raincoat and tall rubber boots traveling anytime early July through the winter. Forget the umbrella - it'll blow away anyway. Wear a raincap of some sort (with your coat). Take extra socks - your feet will get soaked, and dry socks will be a treat! Take a digital camera and a journal. Even if you don't write, you might find yourself wanting to do so once you arrive!

I carried some foods and also ate in the cafeteria. I enjoyed both - having healthy snacks will help and save a few dollars. Nuts, granola bars, a few pieces of fruit, salmon in a pack (or tuna) with crackers, ... these all helped fill in the gaps when I needed something to tie me over. But one day when it was especially chilly and rainy, I delighted in a hot bowl of soup and cuppa tea from the cafeteria. It also gives you a chance to meet other travelers and chat about what they might know or might have seen. If you use substitute sweeteners like Splenda, take some packets with you in case they don't have the ones you want/need. I also always travel with a few tea bags of my favorite tea - just in case.

If you are into an ultimately unique experience and love to camp, you can actually camp on the deck. (Yes - ppl actually do this.) I am a camper, and I honestly would rather rent a cabin, but the opportunity is there if you are camping otherwise and will be carrying the equipment otherwise. Either way, take a small travel pillow with you and a small fleece blanket. It might come in handy if you want to take a quick snooze. Ferry traveling is slow and can get chilly on the boat (even inside). What you can travel by plane in a couple of hours up and down can take a whole day on the ferry from loading to disembarking. And honestly, I did get a little - not bored, but... perhaps tired (?)... after a while water is water when it takes an hour or two to cross from two locations within a similar point of view.

While there are tour guides on-board - and do at least spend a bit of time chatting with them if you don't participate in their presentations - you might want to take a guide book along to read up before you arrive in each town (if you haven't done so already) to highlight a bit of what you want to do once you are there, esp. if you are going during the high (summer) season (as far as travel).

Going back to the cabins - mine had two bunks. I put my items on the top and slept on the bottom and liked this arrangement. I left my roll-away on the floor and had no problems with anything. It gave me a chance to spread things out and regroup after traveling and picking up a few souvenirs. I had thought I might have problems with things flying across the cabin if the waters got a bit high/turbulent, but I experienced none of this while I was there. I don't know what it's like at different times. I was on the ferry in both the summer (June) and fall (September). The worst I experienced was chilly and rainy. Nothing bad. I'd traveled in the Irish Sea and had been quite thrown on the boat and became completely sick. :P But I did not experience any of that in AK.

I'm a fairly small person, and I found the bathrooms a bit cramped besides being a bit dark, but I simply left the curtain open when showering for more space and light. I'd actually started with the door open as the bathroom began to steam, but the door *did* bang back and forth, so I closed it and would recommend the same (closing it). The floors were completely tiled, so it didn't matter that the floor got completely soaked. I just threw a towel down on it when I was ready to step out so as not to slip. (Okay - I know these things are more personal, but if it helps, I'm happy to share such practical info.) But... I'd definitely get a cabin when traveling nights or at least on trips where you are traveling at least 6 - 8 hours. Otherwise, I found I could be just as comfortable during the day snoozing in the front observation deck and snacking in the lounge and cafeteria. Also, it will save you a bit on shorter trips (like Juneau to Haines) if you *don't* get a cabin. Whatever you do, if you make stops between the towns, and you are traveling high season (summer), *make room reservations before leaving* or you might find you will either not have one at all or if so, it might be more than your pocketbook will have wanted to pay.

What else? I'm one of those late-arrivers, and it has actually always served me well, but I wouldn't recommend it. I have always been able to get my luggage sooner, driven the car off the boat first (taken other ferries in other places also), and spent less time in cramped travel quarters. But... I'm quite active and can run if needed. And have! I would not recommend taking such chances. Go ahead and arrive early, board the boat, settle into your cabin, visit the deck, get a cup of tea, and spend some time reading what you can on the boat. Write a few postcards. Get a few folks to snap some before/after photos. And take some time to rest so that once you arrive, you'll be re-energized and ready to explore!

Wish I was going! Have a GREAT time! There is no place like AK... enjoy it to the fullest!

[forgetwho]

Great post, JustT&Me. While reading it I thought of one more thing that I found really useful on the ferry - if you drink coffee, bring your own coffee and a lexan French press (available at REI or similar stores). Hot water is almost always available and free, so you can have coffee anytime you want it, and it will be a lot better coffee than what you can get on board... (plus, I loved it when people in the snack area noticed it and asked, "Is that a coffee MAKER?")