2 stupid questions (how much, live, law)

[jim65970]

hello there to all....ok have 2 questions...perhaps someone will know....i have a reason for them.... # 1....does any know the approx high temp of a wood stove with a full load of wood ?..... # 2....how about the temp of the ''stove pipe''....from fire box & up......just general ideas
thanks
jim

[Rance]

I never took the time to measure the temps in those particular areas. But I have seen both glowing nice and red at times.

[SuValley]

If its glowing, you are probably too hot. I recall using the old "thermometer" on the stove pipe years ago-looked just like an oven therm, as it happens. It would occasionally read 400 degrees plus, when it was placed about three feet up the piping. Which, btw, is not recommended for the new wood stoves that have the catalyst system design.

I have no idea what the actual temp inside the firebox might be, but it will be pretty high.

[MissingAll4Seasons]

The actual temps vary by wood type and stove type. The individual manufacturer of your stove should have the average temperatures listed in their specifications because that information is required by law under fire safety codes. If you've bought a used stove and don't have the owner's manual, you can look it up online for most manufacturers or call the manufacturer. If you've built the system yourself (like a barrel stove) then you'll have to test it yourself, preferably outside of your building, with wood typical of what you'll be burning.

There is more information about common best practices and safety measures at woodheat home

[Bruce 01]

Originally Posted by jim65970

hello there to all....ok have 2 questions...perhaps someone will know....i have a reason for them.... # 1....does any know the approx high temp of a wood stove with a full load of wood ?..... # 2....how about the temp of the ''stove pipe''....from fire box & up......just general ideas
thanks
jim

There's a whole lot of variables there, like: how much air is the fire getting? What kind of wood is it? How dry is the wood? Where on, or in, the stove is the temp going to be taken?

Does the pipe have a damper? Are you interested in the temp above or below the damper?

[jim65970]

Originally Posted by Bruce 01

There's a whole lot of variables there, like: how much air is the fire getting? What kind of wood is it? How dry is the wood? Where on, or in, the stove is the temp going to be taken?

Does the pipe have a damper? Are you interested in the temp above or below the damper?

im more interested in the stove pipe temp.....dont know much about it have to say....are dampers usually in the pipe line ? where are they placed ?
thanksin advance
best
jim

[Bruce 01]

Originally Posted by jim65970

im more interested in the stove pipe temp.....dont know much about it have to say....are dampers usually in the pipe line ? where are they placed ?
thanksin advance
best
jim

With modern air-tight stoves they aren't as important as they used to be, but they do hold a lot of heat from escaping up the chimney. Some stoves have a damper built into them like the Hitzer I have now.

But if you're in an area where you get a lot of wind, or your chimney drafts very well, I would put a damper in anyway. They're usually a couple of feet above the top of the stove so the handle is easy manipulate.

[karibear]

Originally Posted by jim65970

hello there to all....ok have 2 questions...perhaps someone will know....i have a reason for them.... # 1....does any know the approx high temp of a wood stove with a full load of wood ?..... # 2....how about the temp of the ''stove pipe''....from fire box & up......just general ideas
thanks
jim

Depends on the stove type, the type of stove pipe, the kind of wood. Metabestos pipe or something similar are good - stack fires suck rotten eggs, not to mention that if the pipe isn't properly installed with a collar and roof jack, you run the potential of burning down your house, or at the very least, you get a bigger hole in your roof than you want. I had one stove, a wood cookstove, that got hot enough on wet spruce to melt the galvanizing off the pipe. On a much better airtight some years later, we used single wall pipe for about 4' above the stove and added a stack robber before putting on the double walled pipe. Worked great, along with the blower on the stove. That one did great with wet/frozen spruce from beaches - but the wood had to be kept outside or sand fleas would start jumping around as soon as they warmed up. But no matter what kind of stove/stove pipe you have, a real roof jack and cap are essential. The best of the chimney caps are the egg beater types.

[RayinAK]

All depends on the stove. For example, some of the new stoves with a catalytic filter require 700 degrees on the top of the stove (by the pipe) for the filter to ignite. So at the beginning the stove runs at full blast, and after the catalytic filter ignites, then you can reduce the air flow. Every stove manufacturer recommends a certain temperature at the stack and top of the stove for their specific models. Newer catalytic and non-catalytic models that have air dampers (pipes with holes to burn the hod gasses) don't require a damper on the pipe, since the air is regulated by the built-in damper or air valve located near the front door. However, an air damper on the pipe can be used to control a fire in the pipe. Regardless, if there is a fire in the pipe, you still have to close the stove's damper to stop any air from coming into the stove and keep the fire alive. Most times, by the time you figure that there is a fire in the stove pipe, it's too late to do much about it except for calling the fire department.