Ft. Greely HELP! (Fairbanks, Wasilla, Eielson AFB: refrigerators, to buy, camping)

[goofygolfer4]

I've just been offered a job at Ft. Greely, AK - I'm from northern GA so I know the move will be hard. However, I can't find any information on just how remote Ft. Greely really is (i.e., do cell phones work, do you have internet). They might sound like stupid questions, but I need to know how cut off from my family I'm going to be out there. I know its beautiful and COLD, but could someone give me some other information (that I can't get from MapQuest or any other site I've read on the internet so far). I already have housing, so at least that's taken care of!

--cell phones, internet
--how are the locals? (will I be an outsider)
--can you get most everything in Delta Junction or do you have to go to Fairbanks?
--any specific things I need to go while I'm there?
--any specific things I DON'T need to do while I'm there?
--items of clothing, etc. that are necessities or even just good to have?
--any other advice you have?

Thanks to everyone that responds - the information will be extremely helpful!

--
Beth

[RayinAK]

--cell phones, internet
Readily available. In fact, there should be high speed WIFI available around Delta Jucntion in the near future

--how are the locals? (will I be an outsider)
All depends. There are already a lot of GI's living around Delta Junction. There is a large Russian population in Delta Junction, as well as everything else in between, including a few religious sects.

--can you get most everything in Delta Junction or do you have to go to Fairbanks?
Delta Junction has a few restaurants, NAPA auto parts, a supermarket,m several gas stations, etc., but for shopping a lot of stuff you will have to drive to Fairbanks.

--any specific things I need to go while I'm there?
Can you expand on this?

--any specific things I DON'T need to do while I'm there?
Well, just don't tell Alaskans how to lead their lives. If you can't beat them, join them, and everything will be fine. Hmmm... as a GI you can't just join the enemy, just the locals in social events and such

--items of clothing, etc. that are necessities or even just good to have?
Buy the bare minimum at the lower-48, and then buy what you will wear in Fairbanks.

--any other advice you have?
You will do just fine in Delta Junction, as long as you can enjoy the outdoors, specially during the cold winters. During the summer you can enjoy water sports, hunting, fishing, shooting (targets), photography, metal detecting, dating some adult women (I am assuming that you are a man). Your co-workers and neighbors will point you in the right direction relating to clothing, outdoors activities, and the locals. Save all you can, this way you can buy things you may want for your enjoyment later.

[goofygolfer4]

Thank you so much for the information. It sounds like it might be a good experience for me (I certainly won't be telling ANYONE how to lead their life - I can barely take care of mine!) Unfortunately I won't be dating any women since I'm married and a woman myself :-).

As for the question "--any specific things I need to go while I'm there?
Can you expand on this?" - what I meant to ask about are the local events, etc. that are interesting/exciting that are definitely something to put on my calendar - maybe things that I won't hear about from anyone other than the locals. When you visit a new town, there are always the sites on the map, and then there are the places that the locals know about that are usually better - that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for.

Another question: won't the winter stuff be more expensive in Fairbanks than if I bought it here in the lower 48 and brought it with me? I have family in NH and they have a lot of good winter shops up there. Would that be enough or do they sell specific "special" things in Fairbanks that I'll be needing?

Thanks again for the information! Sorry to be a pest, but this is a big decision for me.

--
Beth

[RayinAK]

Originally Posted by goofygolfer4

Thank you so much for the information. It sounds like it might be a good experience for me (I certainly won't be telling ANYONE how to lead their life - I can barely take care of mine!) Unfortunately I won't be dating any women since I'm married and a woman myself :-).

As for the question "--any specific things I need to go while I'm there?
Can you expand on this?" - what I meant to ask about are the local events, etc. that are interesting/exciting that are definitely something to put on my calendar - maybe things that I won't hear about from anyone other than the locals. When you visit a new town, there are always the sites on the map, and then there are the places that the locals know about that are usually better - that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for.

Another question: won't the winter stuff be more expensive in Fairbanks than if I bought it here in the lower 48 and brought it with me? I have family in NH and they have a lot of good winter shops up there. Would that be enough or do they sell specific "special" things in Fairbanks that I'll be needing?

Thanks again for the information! Sorry to be a pest, but this is a big decision for me.

--
Beth

Opps! I apologize to you Beth (your husband, too Anyway, Delta Junction is a quiet little town, and unlike quite a lot of Alaska towns, the main road is not cluttered with stuff the locals use (old cars, refrigerators, old washers, trash, etc.). It can be quite windy and cold, but even in the middle of the winter there will be nice days, and lots of things to do. The main thing is not to be stuck indoors, unless there too you are being entertained or being happy at whatever you are doing.

Since Fairbanks is pretty much the center of the interior, there are several shops dedicated to winter gear and such. You can buy some of the stuff down there, but Fairbanks has some of the same store names as you have in the lower-48, plus a few local ones. For example, you can buy winter gear at the Sportsman's Warehouse, Big Ray's, The Prospector, Fred Mayer, etc. There are other stores that specialize in extreme-cold outdoors gear, too.

The best winter clothing is one you can wear in layers. Synthetic materials, and wool, are best, but wool is heavier. The idea is to wear insulated layers that allow for perspiration to move away from your skin. So, several layers, some of which you can remove before you work a sweat, and wear again to avoid getting cold.

Synthetic/wool-blend stocking caps, but ones that can unroll down over your face, with two holes for your eyes. If you find any of these for a good price over there, there is no reason not to buy one or two. A good synthetic scarf, or one made of wool if you don't get itchy from it (I do). Synthetic mittens for extreme cold weather are better than gloves, since your fingers maintain each other warm by induction (next to each other). Gloves separate your fingers, are not as warm as mittens, but are good for mild cold weather.

Boots: pack boots such as the ones made by Sorel (?), which are leather uppers and rubber bottoms, work well around here. But again, you can buy these things over here. If you buy it there, buy ones that are roomy to allow for the wear of warm synthetic (or wool/synthetic blend) socks. Constricting shoes and boots restrict blood flow to your toes and back to your heart, and this can cause problems outdoors. Wear shoes that are not too roomy, and not too tight.

Part of you winter gear, if you are military, will include thermal underwear tops and bottoms, bunny boots, mukluks (whatever these are called), and maybe a balaclava or two.

[highdesertmutz]

hey there goofygolfer4,
well, to reside in Alaska, you first should be an avid sportsman, or, sportswoman! Do you like to fish, or hunt, or just go camping?
I was stationed at Eielson AFB from 1979 to 1982. Best places to fish are, Paxon Lake, Harding Lake and Little Harding Lake for, silver salmon, and brown trout, grayling, if you want to go for trophy sized salmon, fish the Tannana River, you'll need a river boat for that.
If you plan on camping, buy yourself a pistol with stopping power to carry with, some bears. Livengood Alaska is a great place to visit in the summer months.
Lots of mosquitos in Alaska, they will swarm on you and just about carry you away, plenty of cutters and off are in order!
Be cautious when off-roading, the tundra will suck your 4 wheeler in, best to stay on gravel roads.
Lotsa snow my friend, and occasional extreme temperatures in the winter months, down to -35 for weeks at a time. Ice Fog, you can't cut with a knife.
Be careful not to get frostbitten fingers and toes.
It's a dry cold, so, get yourself a humidifier if you're going into barracks or base housing, they rely on steam heat registers, and that'll dry anything out.
Get friendly and cozy with the native indians in Livengood, they'll share their cabins and bunks with you, great people!
You may not have to buy any clothing, outer protective wear, as, the Army may send you over to issue to get your parka, mittens, gloves, bunny boots, mukluks, wool socks, see what they'll issue you before you go out to buy anything!
No salt used on winter roads there, use caution at all times if you drive, you'll be driving on packed snow or ice most of the winter.
You can see Mt.McKinley from North Pole Alaska, just a few minutes from Eielson.
Get yourself a good 35 mm camera and use real film for your memories!
Once you've been there, you will never forget how beautiful it is.
Check out Isabel Pass, wow!

Originally Posted by goofygolfer4

I've just been offered a job at Ft. Greely, AK - I'm from northern GA so I know the move will be hard. However, I can't find any information on just how remote Ft. Greely really is (i.e., do cell phones work, do you have internet). They might sound like stupid questions, but I need to know how cut off from my family I'm going to be out there. I know its beautiful and COLD, but could someone give me some other information (that I can't get from MapQuest or any other site I've read on the internet so far). I already have housing, so at least that's taken care of!

--cell phones, internet
--how are the locals? (will I be an outsider)
--can you get most everything in Delta Junction or do you have to go to Fairbanks?
--any specific things I need to go while I'm there?
--any specific things I DON'T need to do while I'm there?
--items of clothing, etc. that are necessities or even just good to have?
--any other advice you have?

Thanks to everyone that responds - the information will be extremely helpful!

--
Beth

[highdesertmutz]

Once you arrive there, and when the temp dips to -35 F, get a glass or cup of hot water from the tap. take it outside and toss it up, it turns into ice crystals before it hits the ground. fun experiment to see how cold it really gets.
I don't know if the Army does this or not, but, when I got my orders for Alaska, they sent me a welcoming kit, and assigned me a sponsor to help guide me through my new duty station, you may have to attend some classes pertaining to arctic survival.

[goofygolfer4]

thanks guys - I've definitely learned some insider information!

one thing - I don't know if I'll get an Army issue of anything - I'm a civilian going up there to work at the base, but I'm not active duty anymore (plus I was in the Navy, not Army). This is why I was asking about the clothing - the company is giving me a clothing allowance to buy winter gear, etc. but since the coldest it gets here is about 28F I don't really have any good winter gear. My husband is from NH so he knows more about the cold weather, but again hasn't been anywhere that gets -35F.

all of the information is great! If you think of anything else I need to know, please keep posting!

--
Beth

[Glitch]

I'm in complete agreement with RayinAK regarding winter clothing. Synthetics and wool are the best materials, and dress in layers. You can add or remove clothing to suit the conditions if you dress in layers. Also, synthetics and wool don't retain as much water and is easier to dry, as opposed to cotton or duck/goose down, should it get wet.

The military may have what you are looking for. The Generation III Extreme Cold Weather Clothing System, still being tested by the Army, which civilians can purchase. You can get more information here: Military

Be prepared for -35°F and colder temperatures during the winter. I don't know if you hunt or not, but the Delta Junction area is one of the best locations in the state for duck and geese. Paxton is also not far from Ft. Greely, but like Delta Junction, there isn't much there.

[icarian]

All true. Concerning clothing, in the long (and probably short too) run, it is probably cheaper to buy up here vs down south. A tendency to overbuy when you are picturing consistent -15 to -45. Obviously what you buy down south also depends on when you are coming up (ALCAN / Marine Highway in wintertime or not).

I know I have extra clothes that I don't use in the winter and I'll either drag around (why?) or sell/give away when I depart Fairbanks (I drove up a couple of winters back). When you see what others are wearing, you can make a more sane purchase for surviving/working outdoors.

Edit: people that don't work constantly outdoors (vast majority) wear "semi-normal" winter clothing in the winter. As already stated by the guys, dress in layers, etc. As a reference, blue jeans are easily the most common lower outerwear. Some even don't wear long underwear underneath (not my cup of tea). That being said, any rational person will have an "emergency kit" of heavier clothing, etc in the event the car/truck gives up the ghost on the side of the road. But for the most part, people don't look like the Stay-Puft Marshmallow Man.

[Glitch]

Originally Posted by icarian

All true. Concerning clothing, in the long (and probably short too) run, it is probably cheaper to buy up here vs down south. A tendency to overbuy when you are picturing consistent -15 to -45. Obviously what you buy down south also depends on when you are coming up (ALCAN / Marine Highway in wintertime or not).

I know I have extra clothes that I don't use in the winter and I'll either drag around (why?) or sell/give away when I depart Fairbanks (I drove up a couple of winters back). When you see what others are wearing, you can make a more sane purchase for surviving/working outdoors.

Edit: people that don't work constantly outdoors (vast majority) wear "semi-normal" winter clothing in the winter. As already stated by the guys, dress in layers, etc. As a reference, blue jeans are easily the most common lower outerwear. Some even don't wear long underwear underneath (not my cup of tea). That being said, any rational person will have an "emergency kit" of heavier clothing, etc in the event the car/truck gives up the ghost on the side of the road. But for the most part, people don't look like the Stay-Puft Marshmallow Man.

Ah, you are spoiling all our fun! That is how we can tell the Cheechakos in the winter, when they are dressed in so many layers of clothing they are as wide as they are tall.

I'm one of those that do not work outdoors, as you described. The only difference between my summer attire and my winter attire is that I add a Carhartt coat when the temperature drops below 40°F, and gloves when it drops below 0°F. However, I also live in the Mat-Su Valley, where it is considerably warmer than the Ft. Greely/Delta Junction area. It will rarely get colder than -30°F in Wasilla, while -40°F is not uncommon for Ft. Greely.

It will probably take Beth a couple of winters before she acclimates, coming from northern Georgia. So she shouldn't necessarily dress as others who have lived in the area for years. She should dress to the level she feels comfortable depending on the amount of time she spends outdoors and the amount of activity.

A couple of other things for Beth:

• Headgear is also important. A great deal of heat is lost from an uncovered head.
• Stay active during the winter, even when you would rather not. If you feel it is necessary, add a few extra halogen lights to help compensate for the lack of sunlight in the winter, but the most important thing is staying active. Don't stay indoors all winter.