Dalton Highway Tips/Info (Anchorage, Fairbanks: maintenance, hotels, travel)

[TheDuneDog]

Hi everyone,

I am seriously considering moving to Anchorage next year (March or April 2008). I have a passion for the outdoors (hiking, camping, biking) and visiting National Parks. I just really want to move to Anchorage, find a decent job for a few years, and use the city as a base for all of the outdoor adventures I plan to go on.

I was wondering if anyone out there has done the full drive up the Dalton Highway from Fairbanks all the way north. It is about 500 miles right? What are the road conditions like? I mean, I know it is a gravel road, but how fast can you go on it on average? Is it an incredible drive? Was it worth it?

I don't know, it just seems like something that would be incredibly cool and unique. Let me know if you have any tips or info on the drive.

Thanks,
Paul
Scottsdale, AZ

[Rance]

I've been flying up north for 20 years and have never driven. In the army we went for a ways from Fairbanks north a few times, but never all the way to Deadhorse. A co worker just drove up 2 weeks ago in a new truck. He said the road was terrible with frost heaves and very narrow in places. Summer might have more wildlife to view...but also more flying rocks and gravel to dodge.

[mal_flisk]

I've done the drive. Had to do maintenance on all of the backup power systems in all the pump stations from Valdez to Pump Station 1. The final open pit stop is at Coldfoot Camp (great T-shirts). After Coldfoot, there are no public gas stations. Refueling can only be done at the pump stations, and require advance permission, if it can be done at all.

The drive is great, and the Brooks Range is amazing from ground level. There is the possibility of seeing musk ox from the road, arctic fox, hares etc, abound. Bring binoculars to see Dall sheep from the road.

Bring your own food, as the gas stations are not there, nor are there any mini-marts. Coldfoot has a great restaurant, but the servings are too big. I admit I'm a small guy, but I've never seen anyone finish a full meal. The rooms at Coldfoot are micro-sized and very expensive. 6x10 maybe, with twin beds, no exaggeration at all. stayed there for a week rebuilding a battery set at the GCI hut.

Speed is 55 and is enforced by Alyeska Pipeline, and the tickets are legal and enforced by the state. You check in at every pump station north of Fairbanks, and they check your time vs. distance from the last station. They also have their own security vehicles and helos. DO NOT SPEED.

Drive is great. Wonderful window time.

[TheDuneDog]

Thanks for all the tips. I am definitely not worried about speeding. I don't plan on doing that on a gravel road. Is the road even in good enough condition for going 55? I imagine it to be pretty bumpy.

How long should I expect it to take going one way? I mean, is it best to take several days to do the drive one way? I guess I'd stay in the Coldfoot motel, but after that are there spots along the road to set up a camp or sleep in your car? Or is that just not needed and you can make it to the top by the next day?

Overall, how is the safefy as far as people go? I can imagine I might encounter some strange one's on this trip since I am really in the middle of nowhere. When you did the drive were you alone?

Also, there is gas in Deadhorse right? I guess I'll need to bring a tank of my own gas.

[Rance]

You may be able to get a room at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel or one of the others in Deadhorse. Right now there are so many workers up here there isn't a room to be found anywhere. Should taper off a little come spring. I don't think you'll have an issue with folks along the road. Just give the truckers room. If your not traveling as fast as them let them get around you! Bring spare tires and warm clothes. There is a station in Deadhorse. Colville is the name and you should be able to get gasoline there.

[mal_flisk]

The road is definitely good enough in winter. The ice actually smoothes out the road. People are monitored on the way up and back, checking into each of the pump stations on the route. Let security know where you are camping. Make sure you make your check-ins in a reasonable amount of time.

If you stop at Coldfoot, you should make Deadhorse in a day. There are 2 hotels that I know of in Deadhorse. Both require reservations well in advance. There are cafeterias in each, and the food is excellent. Prudhoe Bay Inn and the Caribou. Don't know about gas. Always refueled in Deadhorse at company pump or with Alyeska. I have always been with someone else. Either acting as their assistant on the job, or with Alyeska maintenance, or with my own assistant.

Safe as anywhere in the world, crimewise. Bears are around though, and I do NOT recommend camping around Deadhorse. The only strange people are tourists, really. Most are on buses. 2 days from Fairbanks and 2 days back, giving you time to stop and smell the spruces on the way.

Take a picture at the sign marking the Arctic Circle. There used to be a spruce that was marked as the northernmost tree, but somebody stripped the bark and killed it.

As far as car problems, anybody will stop and give a hand.

[Rance]

Security told me yesterday there was a sow and cub polar bear, spotted out west of Kuparuk, where I'm working with one of the drill rigs. Been carrying my camera but still have not seen them.

[TheDuneDog]

Thanks again for the tips everyone. I guess one other question I have would be, besides the sights, is there anything to do along the drive? I mean, places to hike and stuff? Hiking around Deahorse or is that not a good idea due to bears?

Is it ok to park the car around the highway at points and get out to hike for a few hours?

[akvolffemt]

I've only driven as far as the arctic circle, and that is an interesting place to get out and take a picture. Also, Finger rock is a place you could get out and walk around, I wouldn't call it hiking persay as there aren't any real mountains there...

[Rance]

Usually a few bears around Deadhorse in the summer. Roving Security patrols the area pretty good, but I don't think they'd want you wandering around to much. In the summer there are mini-marathons held by about a dozen contractors. 3K or 5K hikes with a t-shirt and some fruit or juice at the end. Might be able to make one of those. Security has roads blocked and roaming patrols for bear watch at those times.