Move to Bethel...any opinions? (Anchorage, Houston: insurance, apartments, travel)

[casey42]

I have the opportunity for a job in Bethel. I am a medical Technologist and it is a very nice job offer. I am 33 years old and married with two children, 9 years and 3 months old. I live in Raleigh, NC and have lived in NC for most of my life. I am not in any way attached to it. The idea of this big a change is intriguing, both to me and my husband. However I am having trouble finding information on the apartments/houses in Bethel. I would also like to know more about the schools and daycares? Any advice...
Is this something I should consider with a family?
I love nature and animals and have always hated the big city life. We all LOVE winter and snow...and do not get to see much of it here.
I also see the cost of living is much higher...but the job pays way more than I a m making here in NC.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Casey

[thepenartist]

Hi, my family and I are currently stationed in Virginia Beach until summer 2009. I am working on my RN degree. I have looked into getting employment through the tribal council (IHC). You can look on http://www.anthc.org (Alaska Native Tribal Health Council) to find more information. You can also find the Chamber of Commerce for Bethel to get any information you need. Here is a link that lists all kinds of useful information http://www.linkupalaska.com/rolodex/local/bethel/

[thepenartist]

Here are some more links for you to browse:
http://www.commerce.state.ak.us/dca/commdb/CF_BLOCK.cfm

[rotorhead]

Definately insist on a site visit before you commit, even if you have to pay for part or all of the trip yourself. It could be one of the best investments you've ever made. If you've never been to western Alaska before you're in for a shock. If you've never been out of the Atlantic seaboard states, it could be an eye opener that people actually live there at all.

Bethel is NOTHING like Raleigh (coincidentally, I flew through RDU last week) other than it happens to be located on the surface of the same planet. Although it is considered a regional hub, it is located almost precisely in the middle of nowhere and is extremely remote by the normal standards you're used to on the East Coast. It is not connected to any road system, and is accessed by air and by barge only, the Alaska ferry system does not stop in Bethel. Distance wise, its about as close to the USSR as it is to Anchorage. This is not the scenic, post-card Alaska you see on the regular tourist videos, its the ground-frozen-year-round scrubby little tree and billion little lakes and ponds filled with mosquitos Alaska that only the locals ever see. There are about 5000 people living there, so by Alaska standards its actually a pretty good sized town. but....it's not going to be much at all like a town of 5000 in NC. You can't get in your car and drive down to the next town if the store doesn't have what you're looking for....there IS no next town unless you're planning on getting into a Cessna or a skiff or a snowmachine. If your family is looking for an adventure, it'll probably be that. It might be way more adventure than you were looking for, though.

Every place has its own beauty if you know how to look, but sometimes its an austere and unforgiving beauty that not everyone can see at first, or perhaps ever. Do yourself a big favor, and visit there first before you sign up for the job.

[Blueberry]

Rotorhead has some good advice. Giving Bethel a look-see for yourself is definitely a good idea. People either love or hate it; there's very few opinions that fall in the middle.

Bethel is not the picturesque postcard Alaska you're used to seeing--no towering, snow capped mountains with lush greenery and abundant wildlife. This is flat, seemingly barren tundra with some spindly spruce on the very edge of town. No moose, no caribou, no bears. Foxes and bunnies are fairly common, with an occasional porcupine. No bald eagles, but lots of ravens in the winter and waterfowl spring thru fall. Homes are built on sand pads which very few residents try to seed; therefore, we're talking a dirty, ugly, dusty, muddy, depressing looking community; muddy roads have been known to break car axles. Snow falls horizontally (high winds); winter temps get as low as 40 below with windchill down to the minus 70's. (School is cancelled when the windchill is 75 below.)

Housing is scarce and spendy (averaging $1200 - $1500 for a small, family sized place). Depending on which side of town you live, water may arrive by truck and be placed in a holding tank; the septic holding tank will have to be pumped on a weekly basis. This greatly adds to the housing costs. Don't be surprised if the water is orange (due to rust in the hauling trucks and/or holding tanks); some areas of town with piped water often have brown sludge coming out of the faucet.

Other costs:

Plane tickets to Anchorage: $450
Milk: $7.50-$8.00/gallon
Bread: $3.50/loaf
Eggs: $3.00 - $3.50/dozen
Bananas: $1.79/pound
Gasoline: hovering around $4.00/gallon
Electricity: $200-$350/month depending on home
Water/sewage: up to $300-$500/month (depending on frequency of service)
Car insurance: expensive (same rate as a high-rate metropolitan area! Ridiculous! )
Emergency medi-vac: thousands

By-pass mail is due to increase by 40% in May, which means the price of everything you buy in Bethel is going to skyrocket. Our state senators are trying to alleviate this burden for the Bush areas, but most residents are doubtful.

Bethel is 60-70% Yup'ik Eskimo. These are some of the friendliest people in the world! That being said, the women are also some of the most bigoted people in the world! Most thrive on competition with each other regarding who is the best provider for her family ; most of the women also won't willing share their knowledge of native skills. (Hint: The children will tell you most anything you would want to know!) The men are much more gracious when sharing their knowledge. Alcoholism and sexual abuse is also rampant among the natives; bootlegging is thriving business; drug use is on the rise. However, if you don't travel in those circles, you will likely never be affected by those social ills. Be sure to check the sex offender registry; chances are, you'll at least recognize quite a few people on the list. Also, native preference in hiring is very common, and the native hospital has a hiring policy to hire untrained natives over trained non-natives. (The only requirement, apparently, is that the native be teachable.)

Daycare is usually privately arranged; friends/co-workers may be able to give you referrals. Parents used to rave about the quality of care at The Little Red Schoolhouse for preschool; I assume it's reputation still holds. I'm not impressed with the quality of the schools in Bethel, but then again, I'm not impressed with the quality nation-wide; most Bethel parents are quite satisfied with the schools.

Now that you've heard many of the negatives, let me tell you that I loved living in Bethel for seven years. The people are very friendly and will go out of their way to assist you. Bethel is the only place I've lived where friends would often have spontaneous, spur-of-the-moment get-togethers! I might be off slightly on some of the costs; it's been a few years.

There are many activities for school aged children, especially if you are plugged into the school system. There are weekly sled dog races for youngsters, with established mushers in town volunteering dogs, sleds, and knowledge for these events. The library has an active children's program and a dedicated children's librarian. The teen-center hosts a wide variety of activities after school for the elementary aged children. There is the Kusko Kids Radio hour where children can guest co-host on live radio. In the past, there was Theater Camp for school aged children although the adults gave it up due to discouragement; who knows, maybe enough time has passed and they will start it up again, especially since they have a new theater. Contests are held for town clean-up and dumpster painting. Music lessons are available. Special events include: Halloween carnival; break-up party (when the river ice goes out); Fourth of July parade and carnival; K-300 Sled Dog Race (a qualifying event for the Iditarod); community caroling with Santa; Camai Dance Festival (includes native dancers from around the world); Easter Egg Hunt; academic fair; book fairs; and lots of other things I don't remember.

Bethel also has an active Council for the Arts which tries to bring in top entertainers monthly. The Bethel Actors Guild is a community theater group that distinguishes itself with its quality performances and sets. Supposedly, there is a newly built theater for both performing arts and theatrical releases. There's also the Lion's Club, Ducks Unlimited, Kusko Quilters, Bible and other religious studies, Boy and Girl Scouts, and other clubs. Awesome rafting, camping, fishing, and hunting opportunities abound, but not all of these are out of your back door. For the industrious, cross-country skiing, ice fishing, and ice-skating opportunities are available in the winter; just be prepared to do-it-yourself! Finally, Bethel has some of the most awe-inspiring sunrises and sunsets and moon-rises and moon-sets! Both dawn and dusk can last up to 1 1/2 hours, and Bethel has big-sky (Montana style).

In my opinion, Bethel is losing some of it's quaint charm. People want bigger and better housing, the number of cars has exploded, petty crime has increased (blamed on bored kids), and people aren't quite as friendly as they once were. However, there are still many great people! Many go to Bethel with the intention of staying only a short time and end up life-long residents. It's a very safe place to raise kids, and it's nice not to have all the ugliness of life in your face on a daily basis. Bethel is considered Alaska's arm-pit, but the locals call it the hidden pearl.

[beav]

Hey Casey42,Women & fellows of Alaska,

I'm a med tech --wanting to get out of this heat for the summer and been
talking and looking for a position in Alaska this year. Need to know how hot does it get in Bethel in June and July.

Just wondering if I could survive 13 weeks in Bethel. The mosquitos kind of turned me off a little. Cause I've lived in Louisana, Mississippi,and Houston
Texas for the last 15 plus years. I need a break from this heat. The offer sounds ok. But I a little scared going alone and widowed. What do you people think.

[Rance]

I think you should do it. If nothing else for the experience. Your alone. Get out there. If you don't like it you can always leave.

[Blueberry]

Beav,

If I remember correctly, the average summer temp in Bethel is in the low 60s. Frost isn't unheard of during those months. However, it can easily get into the 70s and 80s during June and July, but it was also snowing in June '96. The difference is that Bethel has both a dry heat and a dry cold; therefore, hot isn't "unbearably hot," and cold isn't "unbearably cold." The locals will be more uncomfortable with either of these extremes than you probably will be. I had relatives visiting from Los Angeles in June one year, and they were HOT when the temp got to 60 and the sun was shining. Boy, were they surprised!

Mosquitoes aren't too bad if you stay in Bethel proper, but if you take a tundra walk you WILL bleed if you don't drench yourself in bug dope or if you don't have a hooded mosquito shirt. I prefer the shirt to the head net because you are protected if wearing short sleeves. You'll also need protection if you go out on a boat or do any camping while you're there.

There's also a line of clothing called "Bug Out" that is great. The protection is woven into the material and is good for about 25 washings. I wear one of their long sleeved shirts whenever I'm doing any work outside; I wore one on a float trip and never once sprayed myself, whereas the in-laws were swimming in DEET. (I was more comfortable!) The only downside to this line of clothing is the price.

My recommendation? Go for it! You can surely survive anything for 13 weeks. Call it an adventure! And, if you hate Bethel, you'll have bragging rights for a lifetime!

[beav]

Thank you guys so much for the info and the encouragement. I needed that.
The weather sounds good ( I mean the cold part and sometimes hot).

I think I am going to go for it.


Sincerely

[AKMammabear]

When I decided to move up here, my reasoning was the following:

I would rather be old and sit on my deck with my cuppa, saying "Wow, that was fun" rather than "I wish I did..."