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My wife and I first moved to Anchorage back in 1970. We were "dumbfounded" at the cost of stuff at the Safeway. "There's no way I will ever pay X amount for a dozen eggs, etc, etc.." But then we realized that the wages, for the most part, offset the higher cost--plus we discovered there were places other than Safeway, Carrs, etc. to shop. If you take a closer look at the City-Data website you will see that the median price for a home in Wasilla (zipcode 99654) is $137,700. Having said that, you can find places cheaper and (obviously) more expensive. When we first went to AK, we had a friend who lived in a cabin with her hubby in the "sticks". They had no indoor facilities and heated with a woodstove. HOWEVER, the cost was minimal and they were able to sock away a bunch of bucks for a bigger/nicer place. Nobody that I know of ever "put them down" for their kind of lifestyle. I guess I am pretty naive, but, most of the folks that I know/knew generally took a "live and let live" attitude.
If it was me, I would probably try and go up to AK in May or June. That'll give you a chance to get used to the weather. Your car will no doubt also need some modifications, e.g. a headbolt heater, lighter weight oil/grease, etc. before winter arrives. There's also a lot more opportunities to locate work during the Summer. I hear a lot of Spanish being spoken on construction sites. The lady who has a Canadian husband shouldn't worry about him being able to find a job. Also, I would advise anyone to try and rent for awhile when they get there. There are a couple of newspapers that have websites that can be useful. The Anchorage Daily News has a website--just use its initials. There is also the "Frontiersman" from up in the Matsu Valley. matsudotmlsdotcom can also give you a feel for what's available in the Valley.
My wife and I have been retired for a number of years and spend much of our time in the Lower 48 or (more recently) Mexico. However, we still consider Alaska/Anchorage as "home."
Anchorage,
Hmm. It's a mid-size city, has most of what most people want. No Sonic, Red Lobster, or Olive Garden, despite the TV commercials. It is a small town in a lot of ways, because I seem to meet people I know everywhere I go in town. The state is physically huge, with a correspondingly small population (it corresponds with the fact that it is underpopulated - about 1 person per square mile. When you count about 280,000 in Anchorage, population density drops still further in the bush. My kids go to great schools (Dimond and Mears). There are schools that are nowhere as good in this town. Crime has increased, 19 murders last year. Scenery is great. Fishing is world class. Skilled labor is in high demand. Jobs are open in a lot of areas.
Politically speaking, I'm a centrist republican. I did not vote for our current president, due to the fact that I'm a child of the '60s, and thought Iraq was a mistake before we went in. (Viet Nam was what I thought of).
My friends include rabid republicans and former hippie Dems, Libertarians and my personal favorite is a practicing Marxist. I don't preach to them about my views on abortion, and prefer not to hear from my Baptist and Unitarian friends about accepting Jesus as my personal savior. Most of us live and let live, as that's why we came here. I personally have nothing against the pot growers in the valley (if it weren't for **** tests, I'd smoke a doob every weekend). I'm not a hypocrite, as I've told my boys the same thing and asked them not to bring it into my house.
Like many here, I'm retired military. Yes, Virginia, it is a RED state, but a little more centrist than many would have you believe. Sarah Palin seems to be a little more centrist than right wing, and I believe in oil exploration. I also believe in subsistance hunting and fishing, firmly supporting the rights of those located beyond the area of Anchorage and the valley. I think that global warming is here (heresy! according my fellow republicans from Outside). The glaciers are receding - fact. Fish populations are migrating further north to cooler waters - fact. Polar bear populations are shrinking - fact. Guess what? its getting WARMER!!!
Sorry, wrong soap box.
Anchorage has problems, but we LIKE our town. I get a kick out of watching the Iditarod start. I love the fact that our city is so pretty in summer. Winter is dark (Duhh). It's dark in Chicago too. I love solstice celebrations. Pagan but fun. I love the fact that Anchorage is 60% non-white and my kids don't care. I get a chuckle out of the fact that Anchorage is the largest Native village. I pity any New Age person who comes up here with rose-colored glasses, because death-by-Alaska for those wandering beyond the city are subject to the laws of Nature. Bears wake up hungry, weather is changeable, and those are facts of life and death.
I like my town, I love my state. I hold no brief for winter as such, but wouldn't trade summer for a beach front lot in LA any day in winter. Alaska Air flies to Mexico daily, if I need a break.
I've lived in Alaska all my life. I was born in the Territory of Alaska in Juneau. It was a great place to be a kid and play in the rain. When I was in 10th grade, my family moved to Anchorage. In the sixties, Anchorage seemed like a big place to me, compared to Juneau. But it was tiny then compared to now.
I have seen and visited many other places and cities in the US. I lived in Mississippi for over a year after I was drafted into the Army. In truth, I enjoyed my time in Mississippi. But I really enjoy living here in Anchorage.
My advice to all you considering a move to Anchorage, or Alaska:
If you hate cold weather, do not even consider coming here. Today it is minus 12F. This is not as cold as it used to get. Global warming is real.
People who adapt to Anchorage have to find a life that is right for them. I think the happiest are those who can adapt to the seasons. In the winter, you ski, snowmobile, snowshoe, dogmush, or find some other kind of indoor cultural activity that you enjoy. Anchorage is big enough to find a good group of friends or hobby to enjoy.
In the summer, put away the winter toys, and get out the summer toys. Fishing gear, boat, mountain bikes, motorcycle, hiking and camping gear.
The basic advice is -- life is what you make it -- same as anywhere else. You can be happy or depressed anywhere you live.
I personally, ski both downhill and cross country. We have a medium size ski resort with a lot of black dimond terrain. It is a short drive from town, and lift rates are cheaper than "lower 48" ie the other states. I am a member of a contra-square dance organization, which is my primary winter indoor activity and social connection.
In the summer I bike, hike, canoe, and mow the lawn. I also get out my classic Mustang convertible. Believe it or not, Alaskans are said to have the highest per capita motorcycle ownership.
There are two roads out of Anchorage, period. Road to the north, road to the south. Seward Highway to the south is one of the most spectacular scenic drives in the nation. Unfortuately, on the summer weekend it is filled with RV's and impatient fisherman on the way to kill salmon on the Kenai River. I don't fish.
Regarding winter darkness. In December, 5 & half hours official daylight. But it doesn't get as dark as other places, because the ground is covered with white snow that reflects all of the thousands of house and street lights.
Summer light. Because of daylight savings time, and our time zone is one hour out of wack, in mid June, sunset is at 11:45 pm. The tourists think it is the midnight sun. Sunrise is about 4 am. But it never really gets dark. In the spring and in the fall, we have just as much daylight and darkness as the rest of you.
We usually have a few summer days that get up to 80 which we really treasure. June and July are the best months. August is usually wet, and we joke about State Fair weather. My least favorite month is November, because it is dark, and there usually is not enough snow to really play in. It is a good time to visit Arizona.
If you want to move to Alaska, come visit a week during winter to see if you can take it for five months. Figure out if you can get a job. Believe it or not, we have homeless people here too, and you do not want to be one of them.
Once here you will want to take a vacation "outside" at least once a year, preferably during the winter. You will have to fly out, because the drive will take over a week each way. Nobody does it. Nearly all of us have Bank of America, Alaska Airlines VISA cards, and we charge EVERYTHING to get miles. If you plan ahead, 20000 miles will get you to any warm state on the west coast.
We have no hurricanes, tornados, and no major floods. Sometimes a volcano blows and covers us with ash. We had the continent's largest earthquake in 1964. The good thing about earthquakes -- you don't know they are coming, so there is no time to get scared and worry.
We have no snakes or poisonous criters, but we do have billions of irritating mosquitos. Most times and places, they are not that bad.
I agree with most of the other Factual posts on this message board. I think most anyone who is well adjusted in life could make a successful transition to Anchorage, providing the climate is right for you.
Hi I live in sunny south africa and I have two sons aged 11 and 13 and may be moving to Alaska. I live in a big city - Johannesburg and the boys go to a boys only private school. What are the best schools in the Anchorage area and where would be the best area to settle in? Desperate to find out what the kids do on the cold, dark days?
Well,.... I suspect these are not mutually exclusive events, it would be quite possible for you, your kids et al to go crazy and still fit in, suspect it would depend on the type of "craziness" and the expressions thereof, also, one of the euphemisms for "crazy" is "colorful". There are quite sane people, who, by being too sane are no fun to be around at all.
I am African American currently living in Chicago. I am tired of the superficial materialist fake people here. I just want to go to work and go home with no drama. I like cold weather--How is racism and sexism in Anchorage? Is it difficult for a single Black woman? I am also concerned about the crime rate.
We use to go fishing and not wear watches. We would fish all day and into the night without realizing what time it was. In the summer night is dusk then the sun is coming up again.
In the winter the days are very short. You go tanning to beat the cabin fever. (blues)
The weather here is fairly moderate. Average temperatures in summer usually remain in the 60s, peak in the low 70s. We always have snow on the ground by Halloween which will remain until April or early May. The temperatures in winter will go below zero for a week or two at a time, but generally remain between 10 and 20. As for daylight, in the winter it will be getting dark around 3-4pm and in the middle of summer it will stay light until after midnight. Not uncommon to hear people mowing their lawns at 11pm, not realizing what time it is. The periods of total darkness/total sunlight for weeks only occur way up north.
It is very expensive up here, but I don't know if it would be terribly different from what you're used to in CA. The cost of food seems to catch a lot of people off guard. Everything costs more as a rule because it has to be shipped up, so it gets a percentage increase over what the states are paying. There is no sales tax or state income tax. Real estate is crazy.
Getting jobs shouldn't be a big deal. The schools are fine, some are better than others just as anywhere else. You didn't mention how old your kids are, but they should be as okay as they would moving anywhere else.
If you love doing things outdoors, it's a great place to live. There is not a whole lot to do in the way people usually consider cities. The culture here revolves around the Native culture, local music is folk and local art primarily features wilderness landscapes. Most big concerts/shows do not make it up here, as well as most major chains. Everyone is all excited because we're getting a Target, to give you an idea. And unfortunately, that doesn't mean it's a city full of independent, character-filled shops and restaurants. It just means there isn't much up here in the way of business, period.
And god help you if you're not a Christian Republican. This state is RED.
I was contemplating whether or not to interview for a job up there. Your last line helped me decide. Alaska...here I come!
I like living here, the real estate is expensive. I would not live in anchorage unless your combined income is over 6 figures because otherwise you wont have much disposable income to enjoy yourself with. With a wife and kids in a nice area you are easily looking at over 1000$ a month in rent plus the whole first and last months rent thing. I bought a condo on the south side and it costs me about 1500$ month, I was thinking of selling but with rent prices around 1200$ for a comparable place that 300$ is worth it to not have variable housing costs and not dealing with a land lord.
If you are smarter than I was you would look for a foreclosure in a nice area, there was a condo that sold for like 80k in my area and maybe needed 30k in work but still thats 110k for a condo in south anchorage thats a smokin deal. In fact I am working with my church to scoop up thoes units for a sort of low income housing because the excessive cost of rent is starting to become life threatening for lower income people (mostly people who are slightly above the gov definition of "poverty" but well below what it actually takes to live decently in anchorage).
There is no way around it the rental market in anchorage is out of control and is approaching the need for some sort of state or city gov intervention or possibly more section 8 housing and the min wage for entry increased.
I have seen a few buildings that you rent a room and the kitchen and the rest of the ammenities are communal but im not sure how many of thoes there are, or how cheap they really are. There really needs to be 200-300$ options for low income people in anchorage and I am not certian it exists in any meaningful volume.
Outside of out of control rent anchorage is pretty nice, UAA is really stepping up its game with the programs and degrees it offers, eating out CAN be expensive but there are sneaky ways to eat out for a bargin if you get a northern lights coupon book and what ever you do dont ever order drinks not even soda and maybe split an entre, my wife and I have ate out for 12$ I think it was before and rarely spend over 20$ unless there is some special occasion where we might order a long island ice tea at sea galley or something like that. You just have to get used to rude wait staff when you do that but hey at the end of the day im keeping alot of money in my pocket and still getting to enjoy life so I am totally ok with a pizzaria that wont give me white sauce becuase im getting a 2 for one deal I just wont go there again lol. They dont seem to like a 12$ dinner bill and a 2$ tip (which is almost 20%), lol.
Also just to forwarn the GCI package (which is really the only option for internet and cable) is a racket. If you want good internet though you will pay it.
I woudl get a box of hand warmers from costco because you will get really cold just walking from a parking lot to a store or into your office building (or if your place of work keeps the heat low you may need them all day along with a coat). I have still not figured out what to do in the way of foot gear from walking in between buildings because it gets cold enough in winter to make it extremely uncomfortable but do you really want to put on extreme winter boots and then walk around the store with them on? I might start doing that next winter because im tired of freezing lol.
I would look into a pair of northern outfitter boots which are not sold in stores up here anymore you have to order them but they are the best, I would say they are better than bunny boots short of the whole getting them wet thing but your not walking through overflows in lakes going from a building.
I would also make sure you have 4 wheel drive and all weather tires (the last place you want to be is standing in line at costco during tire change over season, it looks like a night mare). Also get an auto start because it will take 30 min for your car to warm up and be warm and toasty otherwise your car will warm up just about the time up pull up to your house (unless your a valley commuter) and you will be freezing unless your in full arctic gear. The actual time that it gets below 0 is low but january and february feel like 12 months when really they are only 2 lol.
Also gas prices are much higher than the national average but if you can afford it going out into the valley is really nice or to girdwood or the penninsula.
1 in 10 people in alaska are private pilots and anchorage has a really robust aviation community and really reasonable training rates for getting your licence if your into that thing.
Over all I would say anchorage is a great place to live but you have to be smart about it because its easy for your money to disappear here. If you are smart about it you can live it up without breaking the bank. If you absolutly must go out for drinks koots is the only place in anchorage that I know of that has a discounted beer until like 10 or 11.
As a teacher and a social worker I would almost encourage you to work and live in the valley its so much nicer out there (real estate is cheaper and you get more land and square footage for your money), if you can live AND work in the valley that would be a dream, the only down side is there is no costco but they have a 3 bears now which is sorta close. Also if you take classes your not close to UAA so that would be another down side.
There really needs to be 200-300$ options for low income people in anchorage and I am not certian it exists in any meaningful volume.
They exist, in theory, if you want to share a bedroom with at least three other people, with only your bunk to call your own, or to pay for right to sleep on someone's couch (seriously). I saw both setups offered as "housing" when I was apartment hunting on craigslist.
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Life in Anchorage
The periods of total darkness/total sunlight for weeks only occur way up north.
