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Unread 07-05-2012, 01:57 PM
 
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Default Best Deal for Pool Chlorine (that I have found)

With the recent heat wave, lots of sunlight, and likely higher swimmer load, pool owners are probably seeing higher consumption of chlorine and other sanitizing agents. I have used a variety of sanitizers over the past 25 years but much prefer the good old granulated chlorine - calcium hypochlorite. I can use a small scoop for daily upkeep, a larger scoop for shocking the pool, and the calcium counteracts the low pH of rainfall without requiring additional chemicals.

The best deal I have found for granular chlorine is to buy a 90 pound drum of htH brand on-line from the Do-It-Best hardware store site and have it shipped free of charge to a local Do-It-Best store for quick pick-up. I use Mann's Do It Center in Canton for pick-up since I drive by there daily but there is another Do-It-Best affiliated hardware store on Plymouth Rd in Ann Arbor.

This stuff is still not cheap but the unit cost of a 90# drum is much less than buying smaller quantities off the shelf at local stores (the local pick-up point does get credit for the sale - sort of like buying local). I find the 90 pound drum will last two years for my 10,000 gallon pool.
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Unread 07-05-2012, 02:53 PM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan and Sometimes Orange County CA
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The best price we found for chlorine is a salt/chlorine generator. THere is an initial cost and a new cell every 3-4 years, but salt costs next to nothing and the water is more pleasant to swim in. Plus there is essentially no work to do.
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Unread 07-05-2012, 04:54 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldjensens View Post
THere is an initial cost and a new cell every 3-4 years, but salt costs next to nothing and the water is more pleasant to swim in. Plus there is essentially no work to do.
What is the cost of a new cell? Isn't it $400 to $500, or more?

How much salt is required? Isn't it 3 or 4 bags of water softener salt each season? How much time is required for the salt nodules to dissolve before you can start the ionization process?

I know the advantages of the new breed of salt water pools (the old style were only found on ocean front property and cycled sea water through the pool) but the convenience seems to have a very steep price. These pools still use chlorine as the sanitizer. The difference is the chlorine is generated in situ by ionizing the weak salt solution of the pool water to free the chlorine ions, rather than by quickly adding a small amount of a chemical compound containing chlorine ions.

Do you still need to shock the pool ocassionally? How is this accomplished?
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Unread 07-06-2012, 09:31 AM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan and Sometimes Orange County CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MI-Roger View Post
What is the cost of a new cell? Isn't it $400 to $500, or more?

How much salt is required? Isn't it 3 or 4 bags of water softener salt each season? How much time is required for the salt nodules to dissolve before you can start the ionization process?

I know the advantages of the new breed of salt water pools (the old style were only found on ocean front property and cycled sea water through the pool) but the convenience seems to have a very steep price. These pools still use chlorine as the sanitizer. The difference is the chlorine is generated in situ by ionizing the weak salt solution of the pool water to free the chlorine ions, rather than by quickly adding a small amount of a chemical compound containing chlorine ions.

Do you still need to shock the pool ocassionally? How is this accomplished?
$350 (online, $800 in a pool store) - our first cell lasted 5.5 years. We spent more than that on chlorine/chemicals in one season before we got around to replacing it.

The amount of salt needed depends on many things. The size of the pool is most critical. How often the pool is covered also makes a difference. Sunlight breaks down chlorine into salt. The cell turns it back into chlorine. Supposedly, having a lot of people in the pool can increase salt content. One year we kept adding more and more salt and the levels did nto go up and then suddenly jumped way up. If I remember correctly you want between 2800 and 3200 PPM. The machine tells you the salt level and when it is high enough. Once you get that level, it pretty much stays there.

Generally we put in 4-5 bags of salt at the beginning of the season and then maybe 2-3 more during the year. Our pool is about 22,000 gallons. The salt costs very little. Pool store salt is expensive, but you can get softener salt that is 99.5% pure (pool store salt is 99.8% pure). The salt begins dissolving right away. I never really pay much attention to how long it takes, a couple of hours I think. Sometimes we put some salt into the filter skimmer basket. There is always some salt in the pool water to begin with. I have never seen it read lower than 1800 PPM.

To shock the pool you set the generator to "superchlorinate" or you can just buy shock. Chemical shock will help get the salt level up (it breaks down to salt) and will shock much more quickly, but it costs a lot.

In addition to no cost for chlorine there are a lot of advantages:

1. You do not get the build up of whatever it is from chlorine tablets that eventually makes the chlorine ineffective.

2. No work, it just does it for you.

3. No trips to the store, no running out of chlorine and having your pool turn green.

4. The mild salt levels and the lower levels of chlorine are easier on your eyes.

5. Once you get the chloinator set to the level you need, you do nto have a cycle of chlorine spikes and dips. It remains steady.

6. If you buy too much salt, you can use it in the winter to melt ice or snow.

7. You cannot cause an explosion by mixing incompatible types of salt.

We really love the system. I do not know what it cost to buy it. We bought everything as a package and I never paid much attention to the breakdown. I did compare the prices they gave us to internet prices, but I do not remember what any specific item cost (except that robot pool cleaner - that was $800 - supposedly on sale).

I was surprised to discover the salt levels are not high enough to kill plants. The area where the backwash from the filter discharges grows very well.
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Unread 07-06-2012, 10:05 AM
 
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Thanks for the detailed reply. You answered a lot of questions I have had regarding use and operation of these systems.


Quote:
1. You do not get the build up of whatever it is from chlorine tablets that eventually makes the chlorine ineffective.
That problem is caused by used of stabilized chlorine and is the reason I now use Cal-Chlor exclusively rather than the far more prevalent (and more expensive) Di-Chlor and Tri-Chlor compounds.

The stabilizing agent used in Di-Chlor and Tri-Chlor sanitizers is Cyanuric Acid. It prevents the breakdown of Chlorine by sunlight by interferring with the chemical reaction between them. Unfortunately it interferes with all chlorine chemical reactions, including the ability of chlorine to kill algae and other micro-organisns which will turn the pool green. Use of stabilized Chlorine, or adding a stabilizer to your pool water, will eventually result in green pool water with a Chlorine level which is too high to safely swim. The only cure is to drain all or most of the water from the pool and start fresh.

Been there, done that, never again.
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Unread 07-06-2012, 12:41 PM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan and Sometimes Orange County CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MI-Roger View Post
Thanks for the detailed reply. You answered a lot of questions I have had regarding use and operation of these systems.




That problem is caused by used of stabilized chlorine and is the reason I now use Cal-Chlor exclusively rather than the far more prevalent (and more expensive) Di-Chlor and Tri-Chlor compounds.

The stabilizing agent used in Di-Chlor and Tri-Chlor sanitizers is Cyanuric Acid. It prevents the breakdown of Chlorine by sunlight by interferring with the chemical reaction between them. Unfortunately it interferes with all chlorine chemical reactions, including the ability of chlorine to kill algae and other micro-organisns which will turn the pool green. Use of stabilized Chlorine, or adding a stabilizer to your pool water, will eventually result in green pool water with a Chlorine level which is too high to safely swim. The only cure is to drain all or most of the water from the pool and start fresh.

Been there, done that, never again.
That seems really stupid. Almost as dumb as putting ammonia in food (pink slime).
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Unread 07-06-2012, 01:58 PM
YAZ
 
Location: Phoenix,AZ
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We use Tri-chlor exclusively here in Phoenix.....never had an algae problem. We drain our 23000 gal pool every 2 years and add CYA at start up.

Is this a climate thing?
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Unread 07-07-2012, 06:13 AM
 
687 posts, read 1,273,056 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldjensens View Post
That seems really stupid. Almost as dumb as putting ammonia in food (pink slime).
A little Cyanuric Acid is a great thing, too much will cause the "super chlorinated with green water" problems. My problems with Di-Chlor or Tri-Chlor (can't remember which it was) started in the third season of use.

Periodic drainng and starting fresh will eliminate the issue. Doing so in Arizona makes a lot of sense based on the increased sunlight levels - provided the cost of fresh pool water isn't too great..
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