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I'll be in Sri Lanka for ten days in February. What should I expect it to be like? Not interested in touristic attractions, so don't bother to describe or recommend them. I just want to wander around a bit and observe something of the country and the culture. and eat street market food. Preferably in places that are not overly crowded.
Hot and very humid is the weather in Sri Lanka. Colombo is crowded and traffic is horrible. Kandy and Nuwara Eliya are cooler and has a lot of landscape. South has nice beaches and they are touristy. Since tourism is one of the main source of income it will be tough not to be treated as a tourist. People are friendly and smiling.
Public transportation is generally crowded and would not be a pleasant experience.
Food is very spicy unless you like spicy food.