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I was sick of all the same things you are. I moved here to finish school on the cheap (UT). I was burned out on the trains, the homeless, my 5th floor walk-up, the dirt, feeling poor around so much wealth, etc.
Here's what I miss:
-Decent food. Restaurants here are terrible. No decent ethnic food other than Mexican. No matter what any Austinite tells you. They don't know any better.
-Living in a place where people keep their religion to themselves. I am agnostic, and living here in Christianland is awful. My children even have a "minute of silence" after the Pledge of Allegiance at school. Unless you love Jesus, you'll be in pain. Unless you live in very central Austin forever, that is...
-ZERO proximity to WATER. No REAL lakes or ocean. The locals will tell you about Barton Springs and "Lake" Travis/Austin, etc. But again, if you like bodies of water, you'll be SOL.
-Small airport that costs a lot to get in & out of. It is getting better, but still not great. To go many places you'll need to go out of Houston or Dallas, adding to your time and budget.
-People with spunk and opinions. Texas is very "polite", which means saying what you think is viewed as "negative". Especially for women. Spirited debate is just not possible, and it scares the natives. And by polite I mean they tell you what they think you want to hear, and do what they want anyway.
-The awful, never ending heat. This really cannot be underestimated. It's seriously not meant for human consumption. This summer was an endurance contest for me--Texas won, I surrender.
-Not much to do. Again the locals will whine that I just don't take advantage of all that this town (yes, I said town, because it's NOT a city) has to offer. Unless you like "live music" and substandard dining, you'll soon be frustrated. Not one decent museum, for example.
-Landlocked. To even get out of the state, you have to drive hours and hours and hours in a car. Then you're in Arkansas. Need I say more? The "coast" here sucks. You'd swear the Gulf of Mexico in Florida is a different Gulf from the one in TX. It's that drastic. So you spend a lot of time in TX, because it's time consuming and expensive to LEAVE the state. I think this is why many Texans insist TX is the best--they don't have much perspective.
-There is little to no zoning here. Much of Texas is butt ugly. I drove to San Antonio right after a road trip to FL this summer. I had driven through LA, MS, AL, and FL. They are all prettier than anything I saw on my ride from Austin to SA. Billboards after RV dealerships after shed companies, after ugly industrial parks, etc. And browner and drier than you can fathom.
I totally get your desire to leave the city. When you're done you're done, unless you won the Lotto, right? Anyway, I'd look for a bigger city than this one, but smaller than New York.
My sense is if you want most of the amenities of New York: great restaurants, museums, architecture, excellent 24 hour public transportation, walkability etc, but with less smoke and mirrors, cheaper and nicer housing, move to Chicago. I spent the better part of a decade in New York, and then 4 years in Chicago and now nearly a decade in Austin. Relative to those two cities, Austin is a charming country town, with some fun distinctive intangibles. I agree with lemonlime that the restaurant scene in Austin has nothing like the quality and variety (at every price point) of New York, except for Tex-Mex and BBQ, though it has improved hugely in the last 5 years or so. There is now a pretty great food truck and locavore scene. Austin, on average has much better supermarkets - I now cringe when I am in New York and stumble through a Gristede's or a D'agostino or the horror of a Key foods, and the flagship Whole Foods in downtown Austin is much bigger and better than any of the NYC Whole Foods, but none of the delightful specialty grocery stores. We have one cheese shop, which is not bad, and that is about it, for that kind of retail. What passes for a deli here will make you weep, and not with joy. Austin has one world-class cultural institution: The Harry Ransom Center, New York has dozens. I could go on . . . I , however, really like my everyday life in Austin. I have much more space, encounter very little attitude, the heat is horrible in the summer but everywhere has central air and I much prefer it to the cold, and things are quite a bit cheaper here, and when I need a big city fix, I get on a plane, and spend a three or four weekends a year in New York or Chicago or Mexico City, going to museums, the opera, theatre, fancy meals - things I probably did only 3 or 4 times a year anyway when I actually lived in New York or Chicago. It's a trade off - if you need to be able to buy x at 2.am, see avant garde theater and dance on a weekly basis, never eat at the same restaurant twice in a year etc and there is a helluva lot more you can do in New York that you can't do in Austin than vice-versa, then putting up with the indignities of New York living becomes worth it. But if you have a little mobility, I think it is nicer to live in Austin and visit New York than the other way round. Though if I won the lotto, I would move back in a heartbeat.
Awesome post. What you wrote above in regards to going back to visit NYC definitely resonates with me as my GF has family in NY, and I have some family near Miami. We would probably be traveling to both cities on a somewhat frequent basis, so I think the whole "I miss a good NYC bagel" would never really get to me.
I also feel like I've experienced the fine restaurants, entertainment and nightlife that NYC is known for. I definitely would not be leaving the city with a "wish I had seen or done that" feeling. Also, not sure if Chicago has some of the same nuances that come from big cities, but I'm definitely considering it at well given that the job market there is huge for my line of work.
I you like hiking, mountain biking, swimming in a natural spring, and canoeing to be right downtown, with outdoor eateries serving BBQ and TexMex in a casual setting, Austin's for you. If you prefer manicured parks with cultural amenities and fine dining restaurants overlooking the park, NYC is for you.
My best friend is from Long Island, has been here 15 years and would never leave. I work with many transplanted New Yorkers and others from the northeast who are also extremely happy here. A friend from NYC sold an 800 square foot condo and took the money and bought a 4,800 square foot home here with a 20-mile view of the hills and river, within 10 miles of downtown and within the city limits. But not everyone is going to be a good match for Austin. It comes down to what one's priorities are. For those who don't match up with Austin, I think they should leave for their own happiness and for the happiness of those associated with them.
I've lived places that werern't a good match for me (including a suburb of NYC). So I picked up and left as soon as I could get a job elsewhere.
Just like you can't expect another person to make you happy... you can't expect a city to make you happy. There are ALWAYS trade offs anywhere you live. You just need to decide what the lesser of two evils are.
Austin is certainly not what I would describe as country or a town. It's not a huge city but it's big enough to find plenty to do and see. I never lacked for things to do or friends to do things with. There are better places to find food, sure. But like I said, no where will have EVERYTHING. And hey, that gives you an excuse to travel.
Really, you need to experience it yourself by visiting for more than a single long weekend to get a basic feel. Meet some people- and not just those out on 6th street. Get an overall feel for the place. Don't just assume everyone that has moved to Austin from the East Coast has the same outlook as you.
Austin has many redeeming qualities- but it's not for everyone. You only need to decide if it's for you.
Just like you can't expect another person to make you happy... you can't expect a city to make you happy. There are ALWAYS trade offs anywhere you live. You just need to decide what the lesser of two evils are.
Austin is certainly not what I would describe as country or a town. It's not a huge city but it's big enough to find plenty to do and see. I never lacked for things to do or friends to do things with. There are better places to find food, sure. But like I said, no where will have EVERYTHING. And hey, that gives you an excuse to travel.
Really, you need to experience it yourself by visiting for more than a single long weekend to get a basic feel. Meet some people- and not just those out on 6th street. Get an overall feel for the place. Don't just assume everyone that has moved to Austin from the East Coast has the same outlook as you.
Austin has many redeeming qualities- but it's not for everyone. You only need to decide if it's for you.
How long would you say is an appropriate amount of time to visit? I would probably not be able to stay for 1-2 weeks, so a 4-5 day ordeal is more realistic. I know it's not indicative of how life will be living there, but what would you suggest in terms of neighborhoods to see and things to do?
How long would you say is an appropriate amount of time to visit? I would probably not be able to stay for 1-2 weeks, so a 4-5 day ordeal is more realistic. I know it's not indicative of how life will be living there, but what would you suggest in terms of neighborhoods to see and things to do?
I would suggest 3 separate trips to Austin, lasting of duration 5 days each.
Trip #1: Springtime bliss: The first trip, visit Austin in the middle of spring (between mid March to mid April) to get a feel for what the best of Austin is. Go out to the Hill country and see the wildflowers. Partake in one of the many spring festivals. Go down to San Antonio, just see the best Texas has to offer. This will give you a feel for what March thru May and October/November is like.
Trip #2: Experience dead of winter in Austin: Plan a trip to Austin in December or January from the Northeast. This is so you can see how mild it can be during the winter compared to where you came from. However, you also get to see the dead grass and things when the outdoor activities have quieted down, when the outdoor eateries are dead. This will give you a feel for what December through February is like.
Trip #3: Experience the summer heat: If you have fallen in love with Austin by now, you need to visit during the summer to get a reality check. I recommend visiting during the first two weeks of August. It will be 100 everyday and you will have to realize this is what summer is like in Austin from early June until late September. Go to Barton Springs, go on Lake Travis, go hike Town Lake Trail and see if you can handle the heat. Go walking down S. Congress. This will let you know what you're really getting into.
If after this, you still love Austin, then Austin is for you.
I'm not sure exactly where to begin expect to say that you should obviously visit first to see if you like the place. It would also be a good idea to get some tips from some locals about where to go when you visit, since Austin does not have very many obvious tourist attractions. However it sounds as if you're the kind of person who is not terribly interested in tourist attractions so this should not be a problem for you.
Full disclosure: I have not lived in NYC, though I have spent a lot of time there. I also have a lot of friends from there and elsewhere on the east coast. My girlfriend lived in NYC for 8 years where she worked in publishing. To make a long story short I am not completely uninformed when making a comparison between Austin and New York. Furthermore I have visited many places here and abroad and studied abroad in Florence for a semester during my undergraduate. Currently I am a graduate student studying at the University of Texas.
All this is to say that most of what lemonlime22 has told you is false and reflects the kind of myopic elitism you sometimes find on the east coast. Some people will not like Austin because it is not the east coast and the culture is very different. But this is not a reflection of the quality of Austin, this is a reflection of the limits of their preferences.
Firstly, the food in Austin is great. It is true that the Italian food and certain other ethnic foods are not as good here as they are in New York, but Austin certainly has better BBQ and Tex-Mex than New York does. And the ethnic food they do have is for the most part surprisingly varied and good. It's also generally cheaper. You can get very good food in Austin for very little.
Second, her point about religion is probably true about some of the suburbs of Austin, but you can find very affordable living in cool centrally located neighborhoods in Austin where religion will simply not be an issue. My girlfriend and I share a nice air-conditioned 1-bedroom apartment for $700 a month, and this is not an uncommonly good price. The cost of living is simply vastly cheaper here than in New York.
As far as the water issue goes she is certainly right. If you're one of those people who needs to live on the coasts this will be an issue for you. However, many people enjoy water activities on Town Lake and Lake Travis throughout the year, so unless you need to see a large body of water this is a non-issue.
As far as the airport is concerned, it is true that the airports in larger cities have more direct flights. I always try to take Jet Blue which is a very comfortable airline with direct flights but you may spend slightly more here. Of course, you generally won't have to pay as much for the cab to the airport and the actual airport itself is very nice. Additionally the cost of living is so much cheaper here that there's no way you would actually lose out compared to what you'd save by living here. If you're not planning on flying every week, this really isn't a big issue.
People in Austin have a lot of spunk and opinions. Once again, this sounds like an observation from the suburbs, not from Austin proper.
It's very hot here. No surprise there. But the summer generally only lasts about four months compared to much longer in New York. Also, everywhere is air-conditioned during the summer, it cools down at night expect during the worst part of summer, and the long temperate months elsewhere more than make up for it. If you seriously despise heat, this will be an issue for you, but most people adjust to it.
As far as things to do this point is just ridiculous. Unless you're talking about "high-culture" Austin has as many things to do as anyplace. Outdoor activities, Great bars, art openings, live music, etc. My girlfriend plays in a skeeball league. It's true that Austin has not very good high-culture, but chances are you only visit the MET once a year anyways. I visited once this year too, at the Alexander McQueen exhibit this summer. It was quite enjoyable and cheaper for us to do this than to actually live in NYC. Avoid the hassle, experience the good. Live in Austin. Visit NYC.
It's true that the coast in Texas is not very good (expect close to Mexico which takes hours to drive to). Once again, if being on the coast is important don't come to Austin. Otherwise take vacations in Florida if you're so inclined.
A lot of the scenery in Texas is not very attractive, but there are a lot of ugly buildings in NYC too. Austin itself and the surrounding hill country is very pretty and the city itself is much cleaner than NYC.
If I won the lottery I would not live in NYC. I would simply visit more often. It is much cheaper to live here than there so it would be cheaper to simply live here and fly there even if I won the lottery. Unlike NYC, one never feels the desire to "get out of the city" because it's so much quieter and less crowded here. Additionally, one has access to a lot of nice small towns in the hill country, San Antonio, which has some nice historical sites, and Marfa, TX which is a beautiful small town seven hours west of here that one can make pilgrimage to. Everything is so close in Austin you can get to anywhere in the city within 20 minutes, and the things to do here are numerous and cheap. Obviously I enjoy Austin a lot, but so do all of my friends and they have lived in NYC. You should visit before you make up your mind.
As a final note, the dating scene in Austin is infinitely better than in NYC.
I'm not sure exactly where to begin expect to say that you should obviously visit first to see if you like the place. It would also be a good idea to get some tips from some locals about where to go when you visit, since Austin does not have very many obvious tourist attractions. However it sounds as if you're the kind of person who is not terribly interested in tourist attractions so this should not be a problem for you.
Full disclosure: I have not lived in NYC, though I have spent a lot of time there. I also have a lot of friends from there and elsewhere on the east coast. My girlfriend lived in NYC for 8 years where she worked in publishing. To make a long story short I am not completely uninformed when making a comparison between Austin and New York. Furthermore I have visited many places here and abroad and studied abroad in Florence for a semester during my undergraduate. Currently I am a graduate student studying at the University of Texas.
All this is to say that most of what lemonlime22 has told you is false and reflects the kind of myopic elitism you sometimes find on the east coast. Some people will not like Austin because it is not the east coast and the culture is very different. But this is not a reflection of the quality of Austin, this is a reflection of the limits of their preferences.
Firstly, the food in Austin is great. It is true that the Italian food and certain other ethnic foods are not as good here as they are in New York, but Austin certainly has better BBQ and Tex-Mex than New York does. And the ethnic food they do have is for the most part surprisingly varied and good. It's also generally cheaper. You can get very good food in Austin for very little.
Second, her point about religion is probably true about some of the suburbs of Austin, but you can find very affordable living in cool centrally located neighborhoods in Austin where religion will simply not be an issue. My girlfriend and I share a nice air-conditioned 1-bedroom apartment for $700 a month, and this is not an uncommonly good price. The cost of living is simply vastly cheaper here than in New York.
As far as the water issue goes she is certainly right. If you're one of those people who needs to live on the coasts this will be an issue for you. However, many people enjoy water activities on Town Lake and Lake Travis throughout the year, so unless you need to see a large body of water this is a non-issue.
As far as the airport is concerned, it is true that the airports in larger cities have more direct flights. I always try to take Jet Blue which is a very comfortable airline with direct flights but you may spend slightly more here. Of course, you generally won't have to pay as much for the cab to the airport and the actual airport itself is very nice. Additionally the cost of living is so much cheaper here that there's no way you would actually lose out compared to what you'd save by living here. If you're not planning on flying every week, this really isn't a big issue.
People in Austin have a lot of spunk and opinions. Once again, this sounds like an observation from the suburbs, not from Austin proper.
It's very hot here. No surprise there. But the summer generally only lasts about four months compared to much longer in New York. Also, everywhere is air-conditioned during the summer, it cools down at night expect during the worst part of summer, and the long temperate months elsewhere more than make up for it. If you seriously despise heat, this will be an issue for you, but most people adjust to it.
As far as things to do this point is just ridiculous. Unless you're talking about "high-culture" Austin has as many things to do as anyplace. Outdoor activities, Great bars, art openings, live music, etc. My girlfriend plays in a skeeball league. It's true that Austin has not very good high-culture, but chances are you only visit the MET once a year anyways. I visited once this year too, at the Alexander McQueen exhibit this summer. It was quite enjoyable and cheaper for us to do this than to actually live in NYC. Avoid the hassle, experience the good. Live in Austin. Visit NYC.
It's true that the coast in Texas is not very good (expect close to Mexico which takes hours to drive to). Once again, if being on the coast is important don't come to Austin. Otherwise take vacations in Florida if you're so inclined.
A lot of the scenery in Texas is not very attractive, but there are a lot of ugly buildings in NYC too. Austin itself and the surrounding hill country is very pretty and the city itself is much cleaner than NYC.
If I won the lottery I would not live in NYC. I would simply visit more often. It is much cheaper to live here than there so it would be cheaper to simply live here and fly there even if I won the lottery. Unlike NYC, one never feels the desire to "get out of the city" because it's so much quieter and less crowded here. Additionally, one has access to a lot of nice small towns in the hill country, San Antonio, which has some nice historical sites, and Marfa, TX which is a beautiful small town seven hours west of here that one can make pilgrimage to. Everything is so close in Austin you can get to anywhere in the city within 20 minutes, and the things to do here are numerous and cheap. Obviously I enjoy Austin a lot, but so do all of my friends and they have lived in NYC. You should visit before you make up your mind.
As a final note, the dating scene in Austin is infinitely better than in NYC.
Nice post. The only thing I would be inclined to clarify is that, although parts of Texas are not attractive, there are plenty of areas that are, regarding landscapes. See my earlier email for details.
Regarding the coast, the upper and middle coast unfortunately pick up silt from all the rivers, meaning that the sand is not white and water is not blue. From about Corpus Christi southward, though, the silt is not much of a problem, so you have much lighter sands and bluer water. Still not like Florida, but much nicer than the upper and middle coast.
A friend from NYC sold an 800 square foot condo and took the money and bought a 4,800 square foot home here with a 20-mile view of the hills and river, within 10 miles of downtown and within the city limits.
So this is a good point. If someone comes to Austin with a good amount of equity then it can definitely be a great move. For those people that are moving from a big city thinking that they can find an affordable home very close to downtown and a great job that pays well right away might be in for a surprise. It's surprising to me that so many people move to Austin thinking that everything is going to be dirt cheap when in reality it's such a desirable place to live in the South West that it isn't as cheap as people might think.
When someone moves to the Austin area and only gets paid half of what their salary was in a place like NYC and then finds out that the cost of housing is lower, but the rest of the cost of living expenses are about the same, it can be discouraging. It still costs $10 to buy lunch at Pita Pit. With all that said, I do think Austin can be a great move for a lot of people, but it definitely isn't for everyone especially if they're looking for a really cheap place to move. Coming from coastal Southern California, housing was affordable for me, but I could see it not being as much of a bargain if I was from a different area.
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