Stuck bleeder screws (auto, brakes, best, seats)

[Deez Nuttz]

Trying to bleed the calipers on my car. The bleeder screws, which are 10 mm, are a PITA to get broke loose so i can bleed the brakes.

Has anyone ever had bleeder screws so tight you had trouble getting them to open? What/how did you get them open?

[NJGOAT]

They can get gunked up from brake fluid and road debris. I would hit them with some brake cleaner and let it soak in and then use a decent sized wrench with some steady pressure to break them loose. It may take a couple shots of brake cleaner to get all the crap out.

[TheViking85]

...wd-40?

[Lux Hauler]

Let them soak in a penetrating oil. They sheer pretty easy so be wary. Try some PB blaster or a 50/50 mix of auto trans. fluid and isopropyl alcohol. Do not use heat.

Sometimes there is no way to avoid breaking them. If you do break one on a caliper you can always revert to the reverse bleed method until you find a replacement. To do that just remove the caliper, orient it with the banjo bolt at the top most position (so any air is not trapped) and then use a C-clamp to push the caliper through its full travel. This (in most circumstances) will push any air through the line and up out the MC reservoir. It is a redneck method I came up with but it works in a bind.

[Narfcake]

Another nod to PB blaster.

PB Penetrating Catalyst

[cdelena]

Some fittings really need a flare nut wrench. It will put the maximum surface area to work and minimize the chance of rounding.

[Narfcake]

Well, with bleeder screws, you can almost always get a closed end wrench or socket over it, so no issues there. The brake lines themselves, though - definitely a flare wrench.

[Gimme3steps]

Try to get your hands on a can of Kroil penetrating oil. It works even better than PB Blaster.

And always use a 6 point socket.

[Mac_Muz]

Originally Posted by Gimme3steps

Try to get your hands on a can of Kroil penetrating oil. It works even better than PB Blaster.

And always use a 6 point socket.

And if that fails heat and lots of it. I got a truck here that should have 10mm/ 3/8" and now a 5/16"/8mm 6 point wrench just ticks over what used to be a hex.

I am not sure i can even get them out at all. When I say heat I mean Mr. Hot Wrench oxy actelene torches. I got the idea these bleeders will just crumble away to nothing and to re-bore cut seats and install new bleeders would cost more in a machine shop than 2 rebuilts.

Often times there is a core charge you can get money back. IE these 2 calipers will cost apx 51 bucks each, but the core you get back os 20 bucks, so these truck calpiers are 30 bucks each in the end.

Right now it is 99.9 degrees F outside and thar's no way I am going out there to fire up Mr Hotwrench!

Add Kroil , tap lightly with a hammer, add more over 3 or 4 days, and tap with a hammer lightly! Vibrate the fittings and around the fittings, add more Kroil, then see if the fittings will bust free.

If you have torches open the line some where first and then heat the bleeders red hot in bright day light. If they break off then they will never have come loose in the first place.

Either way it goes antiseize the new bleeders a lot!

[M3 Mitch]

I have never tried this, but I would think if you heated the caliper (gently) or maybe without heat - apply some dry ice to the bleeder screw itself?

Be careful and wear appropriate protective gear if you try this.

What I have actually done in the past that works is what 3-steps suggests - Kroil (be sure to get some into the bleed port as well as on the threads) (but keep it off the pads and disc) and for sure use a GOOD 6-point box end or socket.

Sometimes a gentle rap with a hammer on the bleed screw or nearby (use some discretion here) can help.

The Kroil works best given some time, like overnight, a week is better yet.