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Old 08-17-2010, 09:45 PM
 
Location: U.S.A.
3,306 posts, read 9,047,319 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post
Tell me what a 3rd member is/means please?


There is no cover, all of the guts are attached to a removable assembly that comes out the front. That photo is I believe a Ford 9", well known for it's durability.
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:59 PM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,426,314 times
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Other than that pic might be a ford it is what this toy auto has too. Oddly I am more confused, after reading the chrystler bit since the gears loaded from the back.

Oh well first time for everything eh? With a book and specs this is doable, bad time, but since when do things ever break when the time is right eh?

I took on that chevy with the idea it was just one metal brake line, no sooner here and the Dodge 1 ton broke a brake line. Bad timing again. At least that was just one line and the dump body made life easy.

I'm trying to fit in my own dam car, truck and van before winter for basics.... The truck wants a flat bed and fender, some minor welding and some paint of course. The cage needs a look see at the gas tank. I find no leak and smell fumes. The van just needs a basic tune, only 30,000 on that.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:45 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,427 posts, read 42,873,053 times
Reputation: 11530
The setup you have where the ring gear and pinion are on a carrier that bolts to the front of the axle is a "third member" setup. The assembly with the gears is the "3rd" member, the first and second are the axles, I guess.

*usually* a 3rd member setup is easier to work on.

I guess it's possible that the nut that holds the yoke to the pinion has loosened up, and tightening it may be all you have to do. Not likely but possible.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:54 PM
 
Location: U.S.A.
3,306 posts, read 9,047,319 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post
Based on very little detailed info a difference here, is the ring gear can be moved to adjust sideways i think. Chevy can't back in 83/84.
You accomplish this on the Chevy units by properly shimming the carrier bearings relative to the housing.
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:08 AM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,426,314 times
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Mitch I will check that out! The book came in the mail yesterday, but i haven't had a moment to open it yet. But if the gland nut is looser than it should be, I can check the book for spec and set that back to tight. If that works 2 weeks it would be worth it right now.

I agree not very likey. 180,000+ miles on this truck, pre kid owned, pops out of 1st and 3rd, in cold winter mostly, a sign of abuse, and the cold shrinks things just enough.

I hate this truck, as it is the most uncomfortable rig i ever drove. I can take about 4 hours in it.

It is terrible on ice/snow unless it is in 4x4 mode, or has 1/2 ton of dead beer grains in it. Any time I go north for parts/work if the bed is empty I pick up 2 grain barrels of spent Tuckermans beer grain to compost.

I still don't know what method is used to release the rear axels but i will as soon as i crack that book.

The gremlins in the rusty chevy are real mean. I dragged that chevy here on a flat bed trailer with the Dodge 1 ton dump, and for brakes right,..? So the demons jump the Dodge and get the rear center line on the dodge. Work must stop on the chevy for the Dodge, and now the gremmies are after the toy auto, and a again the work on the chevy must stop.

The chevy owner was here yesterday, pleased with my non progress, and at least he can see why.

The 10 dammed 8mmx 1.25 differential cover bolts with 13mm caps, no longer have 13mm caps.

These caps are all different, some at 1/2 inch hammered on and some at 12mm hammered on and some others in Brit Std hammered on, but I didn't look at the Brit Std sockets to know which it is.

Those 10 bolts won't be going back in.

NOW! the owner tells me he did a trace and this is a Katrnia truck, that just might make sence.

There is a spare tire winch seized like a rock, in fact I think it might be a rock I cut the cable after wigging my way up into the bed bottom and forcing bolt cutters to the cable. The spare is flat because the wheel is rotted thru. Maybe I can braze the wheel back huh? Not a chance. LOL

I don't think any hurricane did all this damgage either, I think this rig belonged to a shrimper, or a crabber or someone who drove the beach as well as any hurricane damage. This is far worse than 20 years of NH road salt.

And yeah once the axels on the Toy are pulled a little, it will be handy to place the 3rd member on a bench instead of lay under the truck. At 58 I can't claim to be a spring chicken much
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:15 AM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,426,314 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lux Hauler View Post
You accomplish this on the Chevy units by properly shimming the carrier bearings relative to the housing.
Yeah I forgot that, and wish i could forget both of these projects, as well, but i can't.
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:31 AM
 
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Housing-1st member
Axles-2nd member
Carrier-3rd member

Sounds kinda silly when you see it wrote down.
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:48 AM
 
10,139 posts, read 22,476,682 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac_Muz View Post
Real world guys only please.

A book is in the mail, but i could use a head start i guess.

94 toy-auto pickup V-6 4x4

dead rear pinion bearing and seal, Nice undercoating BTW.
What gets the axels out of the side gears? The front web casting will then let the whole blooming thing out? (Ring and opinion plus carrier?)

Do these simply unbolt at the axel hub ends and pull out?

Backing plates are trash too any sources?

Living in the rust belt is just so much fun
Mac, post this on Pirate 4x4 in the Toyota Section, and join the forum, you'll be glad you did.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:02 AM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,426,314 times
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Gimmie, but only if the carrier goes in from the front right? More a matter of terms than much anything else seems to me.

Ok Wilson I will ASAP. But being a new guys somewhere usually gets you dunce replys. They won't like i don't like toy auto.... Even my Datsun SPL 311 was more comfortable with a similar seating possition. That was a sports car of 1966 vintage.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:43 AM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,426,314 times
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Un happy. The bloomin Haines is cheap worthless junk, as is Chiltons. I just want specs and a little insite, and not to be told take it to the dealer.

It says to unbolt the brake lines and then unbolt the axel flange and to pull either by hand or slap hammer out the axels. No internal clips. The backing plates come off with the axel, bearing and retainer.

The bearings, it says there are there and too hard to set up for the average motorhead. But I have mics, Digital calipers, a vise grip dial indicator, inch pound and foot pound torque wrenchs and so is too much to ask for specs and to buy a manual with any?

I have a 10 ton press, and slews of tools. I just am not intimatly familar with toy auto specs! Ahhhhhhhhh

Would you guys say 1/8th inch movement up and down , might be 1/10th inch up and down is more than enough play at the flange to say the bearing is dead? I do.

The bloomin book goes into detail on the pinion seal R&R, but says the bearings are too hard to do.... i don't buy that for a second, and need bloomin specs. Evidently I can't seem to find a book to buy with the info i want, which is just exact specs.

The book gives me a inch pound pre load spec and that's it!

What books do you guys use?

i wanted a Clymers for it's specs, and the detail, but Clymers doesn't appear to make a book for this truck.

I don't want a costly factory manual and or Mitchells.Mitchells is the best of the best, but this is a 94 truck.

WILSON!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can I get guys on that site with any friggin specs? I am off to hunt that site down right now.
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