U.S. CitiesCity-Data Forum Index
Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive
 [Register]
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
View detailed profile (Advanced) or search
site with Google Custom Search

Search Forums  (Advanced)
 
 
Old 01-03-2013, 07:57 PM
 
1 posts, read 1,554 times
Reputation: 13

Advertisements

Someone must bein adjusting forward the master cylinder push rod that can cause the pressure build in the system ,becouse the master cylinder can not return completly to release the pressure,back to the rezervoir.Meineke tech...
Quick reply to this message

 
Old 01-03-2013, 09:26 PM
 
3,186 posts, read 5,450,757 times
Reputation: 1818
The best way to tell which wheels are locking up is to find the ones that get red hot after trying to drive it anyway for 5 miles.lol
Quick reply to this message
 
Old 03-18-2015, 05:59 PM
 
1 posts, read 923 times
Reputation: 10
I havent read older posts but I read a few and I don't notice anybody talking about hydraulic fluid what I suspect happened here is your car required the higher quality hydraulic fluid then what you required. what happened is as you drove it the fluid heated up and expanded... that's a bad thing...if this is the case know that yes your mechanic screwed you. He most likely knew what he was doing thinking youd never figure it out and for $500 his kid could replace the fluid for $3 and he would put $497 of your money in his pocket.. oh actually $482. He probaly paid the kid $15.

You have to know your mechanic. There are many mechanic shops in this country where 75 percent of the revenue they collect is through made up billing. Its hard not to do it when u know how naive the customers are. Sad reality.
Quick reply to this message
 
Old 03-30-2016, 05:38 AM
 
1 posts, read 569 times
Reputation: 10
I have a 2001 Buick Park ave. I was experiencing a soft pedal so I had a new booster and master cylinder put on. After I left the shop the brakes started grabbing and locking up on the way home. By the time I got there the pedal was completely to the top and the car would hardly roll. The left wheel was hot (I did not check the right wheel because I could not reach it the garage and I assumed it was both the front brakes). Now I wish I would have checked the right one as well. I did check the back wheel and it was normal temperature.
Quick reply to this message
 
Old 08-12-2016, 12:34 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,388 posts, read 42,701,155 times
Reputation: 11465
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimme3steps View Post
It would affect whichever side had the twisted hose. The left side would not affect the right and vice versa. When the hose is twisted and you apply the brakes, the fluid will be under pressure and get past the twist and your brakes will apply. When you let up on the pedal, the fluid stays under pressure because of the twisted hose and the caliper won't release.

A brake booster failure is highly unlikely to be your problem. Normally a bad booster will give you some warning before failing and then all it does is make your pedal feel like it does when the engine is off. I've never seen one fail and apply the brakes. And why weren't the rear brakes locking up too? They would have also been applied just like the fronts were.

I'm betting on a twisted hose.
A buddy's F-350, 1978, was having problems with a booster that applied the brakes unasked. I noticed his brake lights always seemed to be on when the truck was running, we did a little troubleshooting and, yeah, the booster was applying the brakes lightly. The practical fix was an exchange for a rebuilt booster, taking apart a brake booster is more hardcore than I like to get. So I don't know exactly what failed inside the booster to make it apply the brakes, I would guess some sort of spring that opposes brake pedal pressure might have broken.

That said, this is a fairly rare problem, I still think the OP's issue was a twisted brake hose.
Quick reply to this message
 
Old 08-16-2016, 10:42 AM
 
8,711 posts, read 8,906,804 times
Reputation: 12186
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
A buddy's F-350, 1978, was having problems with a booster that applied the brakes unasked. I noticed his brake lights always seemed to be on when the truck was running, we did a little troubleshooting and, yeah, the booster was applying the brakes lightly. The practical fix was an exchange for a rebuilt booster, taking apart a brake booster is more hardcore than I like to get. So I don't know exactly what failed inside the booster to make it apply the brakes, I would guess some sort of spring that opposes brake pedal pressure might have broken.

That said, this is a fairly rare problem, I still think the OP's issue was a twisted brake hose.



With fords, the rod from the brake booster is adjustable. At least I know it is on many of the 1980's era vacuum boosted cars.


You simply separate the MC and pull it away from the booster. You can then grab the booster rod and screw it in/out to adjust the length. If it's contacting when the brakes aren't being applied, you can screw it in to reduce the length.


However, short of a MC or booster replacement, this should never get touched during a normal brake service. Sometimes when a MC is changed out, the depth of the bore is slightly different. If the booster rod is not adjusted, you can find yourself with a situation where some light pressure is pushed on the MC bore slightly applying the brakes. But like I said, if you never replace the MC or booster, this should never need to be adjusted.



It's done similar to this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrFEzfDnzqM

EDIT: and yes this is an old thread so I'm sure the OP has figured out their problem by now
Quick reply to this message
 
Old 08-16-2016, 05:14 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,388 posts, read 42,701,155 times
Reputation: 11465
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonMike7 View Post
With fords, the rod from the brake booster is adjustable. At least I know it is on many of the 1980's era vacuum boosted cars.


You simply separate the MC and pull it away from the booster. You can then grab the booster rod and screw it in/out to adjust the length. If it's contacting when the brakes aren't being applied, you can screw it in to reduce the length.


However, short of a MC or booster replacement, this should never get touched during a normal brake service. Sometimes when a MC is changed out, the depth of the bore is slightly different. If the booster rod is not adjusted, you can find yourself with a situation where some light pressure is pushed on the MC bore slightly applying the brakes. But like I said, if you never replace the MC or booster, this should never need to be adjusted.



It's done similar to this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrFEzfDnzqM

EDIT: and yes this is an old thread so I'm sure the OP has figured out their problem by now
That's a good point, but the truck had been working normally for months if not years, then suddenly it started dragging it's own brakes. The vacuum unit was actually pulling the brake pedal down enough to turn on the brake lights (these brake lights go on pedal movement, not a pressure switch).

I have the factory manuals for my 1975, it goes through adjusting this rod, you are correct that it is adjustable and generally when changing out MC or vacuum unit is when you adjust it.
Quick reply to this message
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.

Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.


 
Please update this thread with any new information or opinions. This open thread is still read by thousands of people, so we encourage all additional points of view.

Quick Reply
Message:
Over $104,000 in prizes was already given out to active posters on our forum and additional giveaways are planned!

Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive
Similar Threads
Follow City-Data.com founder on our Forum or

All times are GMT -6.

2005-2018, Advameg, Inc.

City-Data.com - Archive 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 - Top