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Old 09-13-2010, 07:11 PM
 
Location: San Francisco
2,696 posts, read 4,837,301 times
Reputation: 1278

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What should the coolant level read on a 2006 Camry 4 Cylinder when the engine is cold. Does it have to be exactly at Full or is an inch or 2 below okay?

I brought in my Camry to a quick service station over the weekend and they noted they added coolant—have no idea on how much they added.

My car has 35K miles and am concerned about #1 the Head Bolt Issue; #2 the Water pump issue.

So what gives the most accurate reading of coolant levels? Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:07 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,837 posts, read 23,409,078 times
Reputation: 4830
Very likely any "quickie lube" outfit added generic coolant, or tap water, so you can worry about that too.

Don't they give this information in owner's manuals anymore? My 87 has a solid-filled system with unpressurized overflow bottle, if you get one of these working right the pressurized system stays full of coolant and the bottle has some coolant in it, so long as it's high enough to cover the suction fill tube and low enough to not run over, it does not matter where the level is between those 2 extremes.

Which engine do you have? On most 4-cylinders the water pump is inside the timing belt, when you do one you do the other. If you use OEM parts the water pump lasts many miles.

You have a 2AZ-FE according to Wikipedia: (This is a quite different engine than the 3S-FE in my 87, it has a cam chain rather than belt, the water pump should not be a big deal to change when you get to that point. What's your beef with head bolts?)

The 2AZ-FE is a 2.4 L (2362 cc) version built in Japan and at TMMK in the USA, obtains a total displacement of 2362 cmł with 88.5 mm (3.5 in) bore and 96.0 mm (3.8 in) stroke, with a compression ratio of 9.6:1. Output is 157 hp (117 kW) at 5600 rpm with 162 ft·lbf (220 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm.

Last edited by M3 Mitch; 09-13-2010 at 08:16 PM..
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:16 PM
 
Location: San Francisco
2,696 posts, read 4,837,301 times
Reputation: 1278
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
Very likely any "quickie lube" outfit added generic coolant, or tap water, so you can worry about that too.

Don't they give this information in owner's manuals anymore? My 87 has a solid-filled system with unpressurized overflow bottle, if you get one of these working right the pressurized system stays full of coolant and the bottle has some coolant in it, so long as it's high enough to cover the suction fill tube and low enough to not run over, it does not matter where the level is between those 2 extremes.

Which engine do you have? On most 4-cylinders the water pump is inside the timing belt, when you do one you do the other. If you use OEM parts the water pump lasts many miles.

You have a 5S-FE according to Wikipedia: (This is essentially the same engine as my 87, it's a good motor, the water pump should not be a big deal to change when you get to that point. What's your beef with head bolts?)

5S-FE
This engine was essentially the same basic design as the 3S-FE, but features an increased stroke and slightly increased bore. The total displacement was increased to 2.2 Liters. It was only marketed for the American and Australian markets, and are used in the 5th and 6th generation Celica, the 2nd generation MR2, the 3rd and 4th generation Camry, as well as the 1st generation Camry Solara. The 5S-FE was available in several variations each being distinguished by the valve cover design. The 1st gen introduced in the 1990–1992 Celica GT/GT-S, and MR2 had a power rating of 130 hp and 144 lbs-ft/torque. the 2nd Gen was introduced in 1993 with the 5th Gen Celica ST184, and continued on throughout the 6th Gen Celica ST204. The 2nd gen was also used in the MR2 SW21 and Toyota Camry/Scepter XV10 series and had a power output of 135 hp and 145 lbs-ft/torque. It had slightly less aggressive cams, no cold start injector, a knock sensor, and more aggressive tuning to give it slightly more power. Like the 3S-FE, the 5S-FE is a non-interference design to prevent the pistons from striking the valves if either of the camshafts were rotated separately from the crankshaft (A Situation most commonly found during a timing belt failure). In states that had adopted California state emissions the 5S-FE was rated at 130 hp and 145 lbs-ft/torque due mainly to emission equipment used in order to meet the emissions regulations of those states. The 3rd Gen was the last 5S-FE engine to be produced and was used in the 1997–2001 Camry XV20 and 1999–2001 Camry Solara, however 1996 models received a crank angle sensor instead of a cam angle sensor for a smoother idle. From 1997-1999 the engine produced 133 hp @ 5200 rpm and 147 lbs-ft/torque @ 4400 rpm. From 2000–2001, the engine received modest improvements to increase power output to 136 hp @ 5200 rpm and 150 lbs-ft/torque @ 4400 rpm. The 5S-FE was replaced in all applications by the 2.4l 2AZ-FE
Thanks Mitch,

A lot of people with these 2002-2007 4 Cylinder Engines are having stripped head bolts, which causes the head to come lose--google it. Also these engines are know for water pumps that seep--good news is that the pump is internal and fairly easy to replace. But I am worried about the head bolt issue--we are talking thousands of dollars here.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:23 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,837 posts, read 23,409,078 times
Reputation: 4830
John,

You managed to quote incorrect information I gave you before I could correct it, I was dyslexically looking at 1996 rather than 2006. Look at my post now.

The engine has an iron block, if I read right - does Toyota offer an uprated bolt kit? Reading the forums, maybe this is an aluminum block? If the block is aluminum and the bolts are pulling out, the fix would be similar to Cadillac Northstar engines - put Time-Serts in the bolt holes. Not a super-huge job but not something you can do in 30 minutes either. You can get a kit to sample your coolant to monitor for leaking of exhaust gas into the coolant, which is a usual symptom of a head gasket failing.

Maybe you want to trade this thing off while (as the Russian aphorism goes) "the grenade has not yet boomed"

I think you meant to say the water pump is *external* which is typical with a chain driven cam(s). They are usually not hard to replace. Given Toyota's issues try to get a water pump from the "better" manufacturer rather than the "secondary" if you can.

Last edited by M3 Mitch; 09-13-2010 at 08:36 PM..
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