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Ok, I have a 99 Yukon, we noticed it had a pretty bad coolant leak( there were puddles under the suv) and the water pump went out. So we took it to our buddy who is a mechanic, but doesnt have much experience on the V8 Vortecs of that year. Anywho... it sat for about 2 weeks. Discovered we had a crack in the radiator and that the Intake manifold gasket was fried, so he fixed it. At that point, pulled the dipstick and found it looked like a mocha colored milkshake! So, before all this, we had no oil in radiator, no white smoke, no bad antifreeze smell.
We have finally got it put back together and he is checking the timing and all. Started it and there was some moisture coming from the exhaust pipe. Haven't run it yet. My buddy is thinking bad head gasket or cracked head. Compression checked out, leak down test showed no major loss. I dont know much about this and neither does my husband. All the books and other techs online state that you can get water in the oil from a bad intake gasket leak, and it was a bad one. Is this true? Is there a way to check for bad head gasket without ripping it down again? Thanks for anything you can give.
Moisture out the tail pipe is normal. As long as he did a good job run it for a little while keep checking the oil and coolant.
I hope he installed the updated metal rubber gaskets from fel-pro or you will be doign the intake job again soon. I also hope he didnt over torque them They are only 10-12 ft/lbs.
Find a yukon forum and do some quick browsing and you'll see what major problems are with that car. Additionally, mocha colored oil is generally head gasket fail. Again, not sure on this engine. It could also be cracked block or head but you would have seriously had to overheat for that. HOefully you caught it in time.
You can get collant contamination into the oil from a manifold gasket leak. Given that the compression test is fine it most likely isn't a bad head gasket, but you can't rule it out.
The easiest thing to do since you have fixed the obvious source of contamination is to drain all the oil and refill. You need to mark the level on the dipstick. Then, make sure the coolant system is completely filled as well. Start the truck and let it run for about 30 minutes. Shut it off and let it cool down for about 30 minutes (it must cool completely). Then check the dipstick. If the level has noticeably increased or has gotten watery, then you most likely have a blown headgasket or a warped head.
The only way to really know for sure is to visually check by disassembling the engine.
Moisture out the tail pipe is normal. As long as he did a good job run it for a little while keep checking the oil and coolant.
I hope he installed the updated metal rubber gaskets from fel-pro or you will be doign the intake job again soon. I also hope he didnt over torque them They are only 10-12 ft/lbs.
He did use the Fel-pro!! I think that is the plan, get it all good to go and run it for awhile and keep checking. It didn't overheat. We do know the water pump was bad. So fixed that.
You can get collant contamination into the oil from a manifold gasket leak. Given that the compression test is fine it most likely isn't a bad head gasket, but you can't rule it out.
The easiest thing to do since you have fixed the obvious source of contamination is to drain all the oil and refill. You need to mark the level on the dipstick. Then, make sure the coolant system is completely filled as well. Start the truck and let it run for about 30 minutes. Shut it off and let it cool down for about 30 minutes (it must cool completely). Then check the dipstick. If the level has noticeably increased or has gotten watery, then you most likely have a blown headgasket or a warped head.
The only way to really know for sure is to visually check by disassembling the engine.
That's what I have been reading, but he didn't seem to think that was the case. Even the Chilton, I was reading said it. He couldn't comprehend how. I dont think he is used to working on this age of motor, he did high-end sporty cars.
That's what I have been reading, but he didn't seem to think that was the case. Even the Chilton, I was reading said it. He couldn't comprehend how. I dont think he is used to working on this age of motor, he did high-end sporty cars.
Change the oil, make sure the fluid is topped off and then drive the car around for a couple days and recheck the oil. If the contamination is back, then you are staring at tearing it down to the block.
If it's running fine now (no coolant in oil or vice versa, not overheating, no bubbling in the radiator), why bother ? Engine produces moisture in its normal operation, however the moisture only visible when it's cold out. It is true that "blown" intake manifold gasket can cause the coolant to enter the crankcase.
The engine oil was replaced after all these things were fixed, correct ?
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