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Old 12-03-2010, 08:04 PM
 
Location: Yucaipa, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southernnaturelover View Post
When you shut the engine off after driving, the coolant flow stopped, but the coolant inside the engine block still continued to absorb heat. When you restarted the engine this really hot coolant started flowing through the heater core.
Its prfectly fine now. The cold snap here has ended & It was quite nice yesterday & today.

No need for heat right now.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:15 PM
 
Location: Yucaipa, California
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I should of never put a 18 yr old thermostat (never used) in my car. The car is back to lukewarm heat. Ill just spend $7.00 & put in a new thermostat. It dont take long to do & i should of done it right the first time. Live & learn.
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:02 PM
 
Location: Yucaipa, California
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I replaced the old thermostat today with a new stant thermostat. Total cost for parts was $5.54 (incl gasket) & labor was free. Had this been done in a shop im sure it would of cost a min of $35.00. Right ?
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Old 12-01-2011, 05:05 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,758 posts, read 21,519,094 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steel7 View Post
I replaced the old thermostat today with a new stant thermostat. Total cost for parts was $5.54 (incl gasket) & labor was free. Had this been done in a shop im sure it would of cost a min of $35.00. Right ?
I don't know labor rates where you are, but you are no doubt in the ballpark.

No particular reason to think that a thermostat that has sat on the shelf for 30 years even would not be just fine though - they work by the expansion of a wax pellet, a sealed system, and I'm not aware of them having a shelf life. I don't know for sure that they don't though. Never thought about it much.
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:48 PM
 
Location: Chicago
35,926 posts, read 54,868,338 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steel7 View Post
I replaced the old thermostat today with a new stant thermostat. Total cost for parts was $5.54 (incl gasket) & labor was free. Had this been done in a shop im sure it would of cost a min of $35.00. Right ?
Depends on labor rates in your area; shops typically charge a half-hour mimimum, which would be about $45 here at an independent or chain shop and a lot more at a dealership.

And since you're acutely concerned about gas prices, you should be pleased to know that having your car up to operating temperature will improve your fuel economy.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:21 PM
 
Location: Yucaipa, California
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If the heat is still luke warm then my heater core is most likely clogged. Im just hoping i didnt waste my time & money & trash a good thermostat. I wont know for sure until tomorrow when i drive to work. I also got to air up my tires. The front left tire has 22 lbs in it. The other 3 have 28-32. 32 lbs is the correct weight.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:35 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
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You can do a rough test by just feeling of the heater hoses - one will be warmer than the other, unless there is something preventing heat transfer, probably that would be corrosion products building up in the core, I have never seen this but mention it as a possibility.

What I have seen is low water flow, so the hot "in" hose is quite warm, but the cold "out" hose is lukewarm.

Be careful about how you try to clean the heater core. You do not want to go from a clogged or partially clogged heater core to one that leaks - I think the one in your car would be pretty much a bear to change. Keep in mind if you try to backflush it with a garden hose that typical household water pressure is 35-50 PSIG, while the heater core is only intended to see about 15 PSIG in normal service.

In these old cruisers, it can be well worth it to install a simple triple-gauge setup under the dash - say volts, water temp, oil pressure - these can let you see a problem while it's still small and easy to fix, and the car is still drivable, while the "idiot" lights factory installed pretty much only tell you when it's too late - water temp is way hot, damn near no oil pressure, or alternator has just quit. Useful information of course and can help you not completely trash the car, but a gauge will let you know as soon as things depart from the normal trend.

BTW on this car I would suggest putting 35 PSI in the front tires and 32 in the back, since most of the weight of the car is on the front tires, and this also tends to (slightly) reduce the extreme understeer that this old cars feature.
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:29 PM
 
Location: Yucaipa, California
8,305 posts, read 9,798,584 times
Reputation: 4589
The heat is still lukewarm. The top radiator hose is hot & bottom hose is cold. Also the small heater hose to the heat riser valve is hot & the heater hose to the waterpump is cold. I did disconnect the heater hose & put a pressure hose into it & dirty water did come out for a few seconds. It looks like i wasted $5.50 + labor.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:17 PM
 
Location: Yucaipa, California
8,305 posts, read 9,798,584 times
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I did get a lil sandpaper dust & a tiny piece of the old gasket into the good antifreeze via thermostat housing but it shouldnt harm anything like a neighbor tells me. Right ? I only drove my car a few miles or so yesterday & thats not enough to get the car good & hot.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:26 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,758 posts, read 21,519,094 times
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I doubt that the debris you got into the cooling system has much to do with the lukewarm heat. If the heater core "out" hose is not warm to the touch, that makes me think you have very little flow through the heater core, but if you only drove a couple of miles, probably you didn't drive far enough for the car to warm up fully.

It would be good for the car if you would take it out on a 10 or so mile drive, this helps evaporate some of the contaminants in the oil as the oil gets hot enough for this to happen after about 10 miles or so.
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