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My BF has a 1985 GMC Jimmy that's having a hard time passing the smog check. He hates that he has to spend this money to get diagnostics, a repair, & the complete aggravation of figuring out what's wrong so it can pass. So far, he's spent $200 to get the EGR valve replaced, but it still didn't pass after that. He had even bought this liquid from the auto supply store called Gum Out that you pour into the gas tank to clean out whatever it's supposed to clean. He doesn't have all this money lying around. Last year, it finally passed when he got the timing fixed. He'd gladly get another car if he could, but doesn't have the money for that.
Does anyone know what it is that needs fixing? I don't know zip about cars. He's frustrated beyond belief. Thanks in advance!
The vehicle is OBD I (or OBD "1.5") so research the web on how to jumper the pins to get the check engine light to flash the codes on what component has failed. This way he can fix what's wrong before bringing it to the emissions station.
Are there any less than ethical shops in the area that'll guarantee passage of the smog check?
You hear tales sometimes about shops like that, but they usually don't stay in business long. The state does stings on crooked garages and the shops can get in serious trouble for cheating. Anything from temp loss of license to shutting down the business and sending you to jail, depending on how serious the crime is.
The state has a very poor sense of humor for people who cheat on smog tests..!!
As soon as the word gets around of a dishonorable shop, someone will report them and they will soon be gone.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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If you move here, the maximum repair is $150, then you can get a waiver.
The problem is that any repair facility charges a minimum of about $85-100 just to diagnose the problem, and may not still have test equipment for something that age. With the $200 EGR he has already spent just about as much as that vehicle is worth.
With non-OBD II cars like this one the failure could be something far more serious and expensive than a sensor or valve. Really might be more sensible to buy something else that will pass, even if it's a $1,000 beater. This could cost a lot more than that to repair.
Here in CA all smog devices have to be in place, all hoses to be in fresh condition. If the car was made with a carburetor it has to remain so, and the same brand and model. Gas caps seem to need to be replaced every 4 to 5 years. The biggest way to show improvement on the tailpipe is fresh sparkplugs.
The computer is scanned for any error codes, any on the pc will end the test. The auto is ran at speed connected to the autos computer.
If all hoses and parts pass visual and the auto does not pass. There is a dollar amount to be spent before CA will allow a exemption.
The CA smog program has removed a lot of crappy cars off the road. I for one am glad. Back in the 70's the air was clear visually but made your eyes burn all day.
To the OP ... post all the numbers. That would offer a clue to whether it's a air/fuel, smog device, or an engine that's too worn out.
"1980: General Motors implements a proprietary interface and protocol for testing of the Engine Control Module (ECM) on the vehicle assembly line. The 'assembly line diagnostic link' (ALDL) protocol communicates at 160 baud with Pulse-width modulation (PWM) signaling and monitors very few vehicle systems. Implemented on California vehicles for the 1980 model year, and the rest of the United States in 1981, the ALDL was not intended for use outside the factory. The only available function for the owner is "Blinky Codes". By connecting pins A and B (with ignition key ON and engine OFF), the 'Check Engine Light' (CEL) blinks out a two-digit number that corresponds to a specific error condition. Cadillac (gasoline) fuel-injected vehicles, however, are equipped with actual on-board diagnostics, providing trouble codes, actuator tests and sensor data through the new digital Electronic Climate Control display. Holding down 'Off' and 'Warmer' for several seconds activates the diagnostic mode without need for an external scan-tool." On-board diagnostics - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Maybe it wasn't called "OBD" (I stand corrected) HOWEVER, the above text is self-explanatory.
BTW, my 95' Plymouth Neon Sport Coupe is OBD I and I flash the codes via the "key dance" to get the same data they collect in the above text. I don't bother with an OBD I scan tool. The codes flashed are sufficient.
My BF has a 1985 GMC Jimmy that's having a hard time passing the smog check. He hates that he has to spend this money to get diagnostics, a repair, & the complete aggravation of figuring out what's wrong so it can pass. So far, he's spent $200 to get the EGR valve replaced, but it still didn't pass after that. He had even bought this liquid from the auto supply store called Gum Out that you pour into the gas tank to clean out whatever it's supposed to clean. He doesn't have all this money lying around. Last year, it finally passed when he got the timing fixed. He'd gladly get another car if he could, but doesn't have the money for that.
Does anyone know what it is that needs fixing? I don't know zip about cars. He's frustrated beyond belief. Thanks in advance!
Ok Most likely the problem is with the OX sensor, and the catalytic converter replace them both and it should pass. Question ? how many miles does it have on it. Also just a thought , Gum out is the last thing you want in your gas tank unless you are having problems with blocked lines . Fill the tank with hi test grade gas . make sure the Spark plugs are good and replace the air cleaner cartridge . now it should pass fine .
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