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Old 03-27-2011, 05:35 PM
 
Location: Somewhere in Kentucky
3,791 posts, read 8,867,844 times
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I believe I have a bad plug in one of the banks on my mail car, a 2008 Impala. I could change the front three easily, but I would rather do it right and change all six. I am sure most of you have owned a FWD car and know what kind of b--ch it is to get to the rear plugs. Any tips on making it an easier task or am I going to have to swallow my pride and take it to a shop?

Also, should I change the wires while I am at it?
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:39 PM
 
3,071 posts, read 9,095,761 times
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I just changed some on a 2004 Taurus and I know what you are saying. The first thing you got to do is be able to reach the back plugs with the proper spark plug removal socket and ratchet . I reached them from the top but on some cars it is best to go from the bottom back side and the car will need to be jacked up. Check the service manual for more details. No car is made where there is no simple procedure to replace the plugs. The trick is to know the procedure yourself and not pay hundreds for something any pro can do in minutes......even though they may try to make you think it is a big deal and cost hundreds A car made in 2008 should not need wires. If you need plugs the CEL will be on..is it?
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Old 03-28-2011, 06:34 AM
 
Location: Somewhere in Kentucky
3,791 posts, read 8,867,844 times
Reputation: 2446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nativechief View Post
I just changed some on a 2004 Taurus and I know what you are saying. The first thing you got to do is be able to reach the back plugs with the proper spark plug removal socket and ratchet . I reached them from the top but on some cars it is best to go from the bottom back side and the car will need to be jacked up. Check the service manual for more details. No car is made where there is no simple procedure to replace the plugs. The trick is to know the procedure yourself and not pay hundreds for something any pro can do in minutes......even though they may try to make you think it is a big deal and cost hundreds A car made in 2008 should not need wires. If you need plugs the CEL will be on..is it?
The light came on a couple weeks ago. The engine is acting like a plug is fouled out. I looked again and if I take off the coil pack, I may be able to reach them better. It's going to be rough either way.

No way I am going to take it in to a shop. It's the equivalent of six screws with a piece of rubber on the ends.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:21 AM
 
6,367 posts, read 16,799,877 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentuckydad95 View Post
The light came on a couple weeks ago. The engine is acting like a plug is fouled out. I looked again and if I take off the coil pack, I may be able to reach them better. It's going to be rough either way.

No way I am going to take it in to a shop. It's the equivalent of six screws with a piece of rubber on the ends.
If it's so simple then why are you here asking for advice on how to do it?

Anyway, remove the engine cover, then remove the bolt from one end of each dog bone engine mount (you may only have one mount) and just loosen the bolt in the other end and rotate the mount out of the way. Position your floor jack with a block of wood on it under the transmission pan and jack it up. Don't get carried away with the jack. The engine will rotate, giving you access to the rear plugs.

Proceed at your own risk. Just make sure your jack is in good shape because if it drops, it won't be good for the hands. And watch out for anything sharp on the firewall.
^^This what the mount looks like
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:25 AM
 
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Like gimme3steps pointed out, the best way to do it is loosen the mounts and rotate the engine forward to get easier access to the back plugs. This is what they would do if you took it into a shop.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:31 PM
 
Location: Pikesville, MD
5,228 posts, read 15,194,410 times
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Yup. For a transverse V engine, at least a GM one, that's the best way to go about it.

Most of them the plugs on a modern FWD car are in the center of the head, so they are easy to get at even as a transverse engine. And 4 cyl FWD ones are generally complete cake to get to, so it's not a FWD thing, just a poorly engineered GM thing.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:45 AM
 
Location: Somewhere in Kentucky
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BTW, the Champion spark plugs website says the OEM plugs are iridiums. Is this BS or can I make do with the regular platinums?
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:01 AM
 
14,780 posts, read 43,481,658 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentuckydad95 View Post
BTW, the Champion spark plugs website says the OEM plugs are iridiums. Is this BS or can I make do with the regular platinums?
Any plug will work as long as it is the correct heat range and gapped appropriately.
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:29 AM
 
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The iridium are for the 100,000 mile interval between plug changes. The platinum plug will work ok as long as it's the correct plug for your engine. They just won't last nearly as long. That's your call.

I'd avoid Champion and go back with AC-Delco if available. That's my preference.
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:40 AM
 
Location: Somewhere in Kentucky
3,791 posts, read 8,867,844 times
Reputation: 2446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimme3steps View Post
The iridium are for the 100,000 mile interval between plug changes. The platinum plug will work ok as long as it's the correct plug for your engine. They just won't last nearly as long. That's your call.

I'd avoid Champion and go back with AC-Delco if available. That's my preference.
I "hear" Autolites are a POS. I haven't had them in years though.
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