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05-13-2011, 09:02 AM
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6,155 posts, read 4,354,900 times
Reputation: 5130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nativechief
Yo you dont need a torque wrench for plugs and value covers.Sounds like you have little experience. The 1/2 is most often used in engine machine work.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDD
I have never used a torque wrench for spark plugs or valve covers.
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Why not use a torque wrench for valve covers? There's no good reason not to. No different than torquing an oil pan or trans pan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch
For the record, 12 inch pounds makes one foot pound, for the same exact reason that 12 inches makes a foot - that was not real obvious to me in the earliest days of turning wrenches, but there it is.
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Correct.
Example: If you need 10 ft-lbs but your lowest ft-lb setting is 20, an in-lb wrench set at 120 will give the same result.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac_Muz
Mitch I did air cooled VW's in under 15 minutes... Mg, Volvo and that like was under or at 45 min. I liked that since the book would give around 8 hours. I didn't mind Tr3's but with them you had to remove the seats carpets if any, and then the tunnel. The BMW 2002 was pretty easy as wll othe than the clutch spline was a little finicky to get lined up.
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There used to be a Datsun/Nissan clutch that took less than a half hour to replace because the trans didn't have to come out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00molavi
I do a lot of work on my cars, rarely use the torque wrench. Don't have a 1/2", mostly because if you need that much torque you might just as well tighten it as much as you can. They also loose their accuracy in that high range. I don't do engine overhauls any more, don't know if many do nowadays anyways. The 3/4" is more useful, esp if you want to tighten pans and not crush the gasket, even then I have found the torque specs from the book rarely applyand sometimes they get close to crushing the gasket. So I gradually increase the torque setting and go across and see how the gasket holds up. I bought mine from Harbor Freight, they are not high quality but pretty cheap and have a lifetime warranty. So when my first one broke, I walked in and exchanged it for a new one-no questions asked.
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Uh, what?
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05-13-2011, 09:17 AM
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Location: NH Live Free or Die
16,102 posts, read 6,172,930 times
Reputation: 6379
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Gimmie, I didn't do a lot with Datsun.. I did own (2) SPL 311's though, but they were much like a MGB.
Maybe it was the first Datsun F 10 i think, a fwd vehical with a transverse engine, but I don't know.
I am pretty sure 00molavi made a typo, meaning to say 3/8th inch drive. If I am right what he said is reasonable. If I am wrong the pans and gaskets must be monsters! 
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05-13-2011, 08:38 PM
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702 posts, read 857,991 times
Reputation: 360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00molavi
I do a lot of work on my cars, rarely use the torque wrench. Don't have a 1/2", mostly because if you need that much torque you might just as well tighten it as much as you can. They also loose their accuracy in that high range. I don't do engine overhauls any more, don't know if many do nowadays anyways. The 3/4" is more useful, esp if you want to tighten pans and not crush the gasket, even then I have found the torque specs from the book rarely apply and sometimes they get close to crushing the gasket. So I gradually increase the torque setting and go across and see how the gasket holds up. I bought mine from Harbor Freight, they are not high quality but pretty cheap and have a lifetime warranty. So when my first one broke, I walked in and exchanged it for a new one-no questions asked.
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Yes, sorry, shouldn't stay up late I guess, I meant 3/8".
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05-13-2011, 09:52 PM
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3,074 posts, read 2,924,992 times
Reputation: 1473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimme3steps
Why not use a torque wrench for valve covers? There's no good reason not to. No different than torquing an oil pan or trans pan.
Correct.
Example: If you need 10 ft-lbs but your lowest ft-lb setting is 20, an in-lb wrench set at 120 will give the same result.
There used to be a Datsun/Nissan clutch that took less than a half hour to replace because the trans didn't have to come out.
Uh, what?
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I agree that using a torque wrench is best any time you can use it IF you are an experienced mechanic as you are. Problem is many people do not understand is THAT YOU SHOULD NOT RE TORQUE a bolt that has been torqued before especially if breaking it will leave a piece broken off in your engine. If a novice is determined to tighten old bolts to the exact foot pounds he will quickly learn something all right. Something he cant fix.
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