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Old 08-14-2011, 12:05 AM
 
Location: Not far from Fairbanks, AK
12,809 posts, read 13,515,298 times
Reputation: 7928
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Greensboro Resident View Post
Alright motorheads, what's the difference between these two blends of synthetic oil? My car recommends 5W20 Dino, but I go with synthetic (don't want to open that arguement) when I took it in to get an oil change, the dealer had a special on 0W20 synthetic.... But I was kind of concerned about using anything other than 5W20 which is what is recommended. Thoughts?
The answer is as follows: if you vehicle is under a manufacturer's warranty, follow the instructions on the manual. If the oil you should use is 5W-20, why would you risk voiding the warranty?
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:03 AM
 
Location: Indianapolis
3,577 posts, read 4,405,399 times
Reputation: 2126
Quote:
Originally Posted by RayinAK View Post
The answer is as follows: if you vehicle is under a manufacturer's warranty, follow the instructions on the manual. If the oil you should use is 5W-20, why would you risk voiding the warranty?
The 0W20 is on sale at this Honda dealership so it's much cheaper and supposedly it's now acceptable to run 0W20 in Civics that require the 5W20. They are very similar oils, some argue the 0W is even better and it does not void the warranty as it's the dealer who's pushing it and most 2011 Hondas recommend using the 0W20. That's why I was asking. I was looking for opinions about each (0W vs. 5W) and what people preferred, that's all! Not looking to put something completely different in my car, like say a 20W50 weight or something that drastic....
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:43 AM
 
Location: Columbia NJ
24 posts, read 45,633 times
Reputation: 51
First of all you will NOT void the warranty running 0-20 over 5-20. Nor will you void it running 5-30 or 0-30 or 5-40. The main reason the viscosity of oil keeps decreasing is for the manufacturers to be able to extract every mpg they can. This puts demands on oil. It really depends on who the oil manufacturer is and what type of synthetic base stock is being used before I will run an oil. For example I will run Castrol GTX, a conventional oil but I will not use EDGE or Syntek. Personally I use Amsoil 0-30 in my Toyota Tacoma and I have for over 120k with 15k change intervals. At 60 and again recently at 120k I had the valve covers off and checked the valves per book service interval. The engine was super clean inside with little wear. It looked like an engine that had 10k not over 120. My previous Toyota 4x4 used the same oil, changed at 15k. I sold it at 325k with no problems. The next owner drove it to over 400k before totaling it in an accident. Amsoil makes an excellent 0w-20 and excellent 5w-20 synthetics as well. I wouldn't hesitate to use either. However Amsoil is premium priced. Do not waste your money on the other crap. Use a quality oil like Amsoil. Mobil 1 is a good oil as well.
Oh and for the internet doomsayers, I worked as a master technician for over 28 years at dealerships. They do not take oil samples and send them to labs to try and void your warranty. Besides as an oil is used many INCREASE in viscosity. Some decrease as well. As long as it has the correct additive package and is changed at the proper time you are ok. The same goes for filters, your warranty cannot be voided for using a non oem filter. Now I personally wouldn't use a crap filter on my car but some people will.
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:50 AM
 
Location: Indianapolis
3,577 posts, read 4,405,399 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hevster1 View Post
First of all you will NOT void the warranty running 0-20 over 5-20. Nor will you void it running 5-30 or 0-30 or 5-40. The main reason the viscosity of oil keeps decreasing is for the manufacturers to be able to extract every mpg they can. This puts demands on oil. It really depends on who the oil manufacturer is and what type of synthetic base stock is being used before I will run an oil. For example I will run Castrol GTX, a conventional oil but I will not use EDGE or Syntek. Personally I use Amsoil 0-30 in my Toyota Tacoma and I have for over 120k with 15k change intervals. At 60 and again recently at 120k I had the valve covers off and checked the valves per book service interval. The engine was super clean inside with little wear. It looked like an engine that had 10k not over 120. My previous Toyota 4x4 used the same oil, changed at 15k. I sold it at 325k with no problems. The next owner drove it to over 400k before totaling it in an accident. Amsoil makes an excellent 0w-20 and excellent 5w-20 synthetics as well. I wouldn't hesitate to use either. However Amsoil is premium priced. Do not waste your money on the other crap. Use a quality oil like Amsoil. Mobil 1 is a good oil as well.
Oh and for the internet doomsayers, I worked as a master technician for over 28 years at dealerships. They do not take oil samples and send them to labs to try and void your warranty. Besides as an oil is used many INCREASE in viscosity. Some decrease as well. As long as it has the correct additive package and is changed at the proper time you are ok. The same goes for filters, your warranty cannot be voided for using a non oem filter. Now I personally wouldn't use a crap filter on my car but some people will.
The best response I've gotten! Thank you! I did get the 0W20 and my car runs awesome! I misspoke earlier, it is the Amosil Full Synthetic 0W-20 and as you mentioned it's very expensive so I got a sweet deal on it for $44.95 plus tax!
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:31 AM
 
1 posts, read 11,442 times
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0W20 is no thinner then 5W20! The 0W means it acts as 0 weight oil at start up! Hey better protection at start up! Both are 20 weight oils when warm. Go with the 0W20, I've used it for years.
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:28 PM
 
1 posts, read 10,213 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Greensboro Resident View Post
Alright motorheads, what's the difference between these two blends of synthetic oil? My car recommends 5W20 Dino, but I go with synthetic (don't want to open that arguement) when I took it in to get an oil change, the dealer had a special on 0W20 synthetic.... But I was kind of concerned about using anything other than 5W20 which is what is recommended. Thoughts?
Any Engine with the exception of AMG and other super performing engines need 10 W 30 viscosity oils down to around minus 5 degree Fahrenheit. For cold and extremer hot climates 10 W 40 is a good viscosity oil. Engines develop clearances over time and with mileage. Manufacturers recommend thin oils to achieve easier the CAFE standards and to make sure there vehicles can operate in cold and hotter climates. Always make sure you use premium or preferable synthetic blend or full synthetic European Formula oils especial for performance engines.Careful, most full synthetic oils sold in the USA only are not quality full synthetic oils.
Always make sure a oil has the blessing of the ACEA.
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:25 PM
 
3,177 posts, read 2,528,830 times
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what your car engine performs with best.
Say, in my 2007 TCH, Toyota recommends 0W20 for "improved performance and mpg". Normally, it runs on 5W20.
But! When I changed oil with 0W20, my mpg dropped down and noticeably on matter of week. I drove on it for maybe 2 K miles and went back to 5W20, and am still hovering around 38.5mpg, though it's winter time.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:20 AM
 
Location: Northern MN
3,870 posts, read 4,811,048 times
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Oils are chosen by the manufacturer to give the right thickness at the normal operating temperature of the engine.

The low-temperature viscosity (the first number, 5W in a 5W-30 oil) indicates how quickly an engine will crank in winter and how well the oil will flow to lubricate critical engine parts at low temperatures. The lower the number the more easily the engine will start in cold weather.

The high-temperature viscosity (the second number, 30 in a 5W-30 oil) provides thickness, or body, for good lubrication at operating temperatures.

Many think that the “W” in 10W-30 means “winter”.
The W is just a designation of one type of testing vs another.

grades denoted with the letter “W” are intended for use in applications operating in low-temperature conditions. The “W” was originally coined for lubricants that were considered “winter grade.” Today, these products are formally called multigrade lubricants, whereas the grades without a “W” are recognized as monograde, or straight grade, lubricants.

Two series of viscosity grades those containing the letter W and those without. Single viscosity grade oils with the letter W are defined by maximum low temperature cranking and pumping viscosities and a minimum kinematic viscosity at 100°C.
Single grade oils without the letter W are based on a set of minimum and maximum kinematic viscosities at 100°C and a minimum high shear rate viscosity at 150°C.




A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed. The oil is already correct for the normal operating temperature of 212°F. It has a thickness of 10 while you drive to work. It will never thin yet has the same long term problem as the mineral based oil. They both thicken with extended age.

You do not need to use the exact oil type and brand that your car manual tells you to use. Oils are pretty general. They are not that different.

The best way to figure out what viscosity of oil you need is to drive the car in the conditions you will use. Then use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances. For some reason very few people are able to get this simple principal correct.
These same rules apply to engines of any age, loose or tight. Just because your engine is old does not mean it needs a thicker oil. It will need a thicker oil only if it is overly worn, whether new or old. Yet the same principals of 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM still apply. In all cases you need to try different grade oils and see what happens. Then choose the correct viscosity.
Some people have tried this and occasionally get a somewhat low oil pressure while at idle. This is fine. There is no stress on parts at idle, the smallest oil flow will do the trick. It is at higher RPM where more BHP is produced. This is where we need the flow.

Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy
&
Look for the Products that Carry the API Quality Marks



The 0W-20 may provide you an edge in fuel economy. If you have a finely tuned ear you may hear lifter tick on start-up which would quickly disappear
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:02 PM
 
2,737 posts, read 890,838 times
Reputation: 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Greensboro Resident View Post
Alright motorheads, what's the difference between these two blends of synthetic oil? My car recommends 5W20 Dino, but I go with synthetic (don't want to open that arguement) when I took it in to get an oil change, the dealer had a special on 0W20 synthetic.... But I was kind of concerned about using anything other than 5W20 which is what is recommended. Thoughts?
I'd stay with 5w20. There's no real advantage in going 0w20 - especially with synthetic oil.
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:57 PM
 
1 posts, read 5,265 times
Reputation: 10
I have a mitsubishi 2013 rvr and this was my second oil change..the first one they used 5w20,but today i'm just done on my 2nd oil change i tried to use what the manucfturer's recommend which is 0w-20..i will see how it works..it sounds good from thi forum.
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