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I have a rod knocking in my 1992 Honda Accord and was wondering the life of my engine if I took short trips and didn't rev the engine too high ?
Make sure it is indeed a rod knock, i remember buying a nice Ford Econoline party van from this guy for very cheap,he said the rod was knocking and it needed a new motor, turned out to be just the U joints needed to be replaced.
As for driving the car with a rod knocking or it could be a worn out big end bearing expect the situation to get worse until the engine suffers catastrophic failure,at which point its time to scrap the car..
Make sure it is indeed a rod knock, i remember buying a nice Ford Econoline party van from this guy for very cheap,he said the rod was knocking and it needed a new motor, turned out to be just the U joints needed to be replaced.
As for driving the car with a rod knocking or it could be a worn out big end bearing expect the situation to get worse until the engine suffers catastrophic failure,at which point its time to scrap the car..
I bought a Porsche that had a rod knock which I interpreted to be bolts loose on the crank pulley. Only about a $12000 difference in outcome. The OP has no business doing anything but taking the car to a good mechanic for a professional opinion.
EDIT: To clarify, it turned out that it was a crank pulley. It took a bit to get the holes re-drilled and tapped since they had rounded out, but it turned out to be a $600 problem and not a $12000 problem.
Last edited by Wilson513; 02-07-2012 at 07:43 PM..
I bought a Porsche that had a rod knock which I interpreted to be bolts loose on the crank pulley. Only about a $12000 difference in outcome. The OP has no business doing anything but taking the car to a good mechanic for a professional opinion.
That is a good point because someone had looked under the hood and said the pulley looked loose,so now that has me wondering, however, I did take it to a mechanic and he said it sounded like a rod
On many 4-banger FWD cars, pulling the oil pan and replacing one or more rod bearings is actually not all that hard, provided you do it before you damage the crankshaft journal bearing too much.
Realize, that just putting a new bearing shell is not a 100% repair, but if you do that, yeah, then you might be able to use the car for quite a while if you take it easy with it.
The reason the rod bearing is loose needs investigation - low oil pressure? Ran it out of oil?
Are you sure it's a rod knock? The F22 engine has been known to make piston slap noise when it gets a ton of miles. I would also check the harmonic balancer bolt.
If you actually do have an engine knock and plan to later rebuild the engine that you have, continuing to drive the car could result in a rod coming loose and coming through the block. That will increase your repair costs because you will have no core to trade-in when you buy a new or rebuilt block.
Also be careful because a rod tearing through the side of the engine block could also result in a serious engine fire, i.e. spilled engine oil on a hot exhaust.
If the knock disappears under acceleration and gets louder when decelerating or at idle, then it's a good chance it's a rod knock. Had it happen twice on two big block Chevy's I had.
I drove a Ford 3.8L V6 with a mild rod knock for 20k miles. Yes, 20,000. That thing just wouldn't die. I was able to locate the rod knock by disconnecting each spark plug wire one at a time until the jackhammering went away. One of the connecting rod bearings was wiped clean. The crankshaft was not 100% smooth but wasn't completely scored up, so I put in one new bearing and the noise went away. Wound up giving the engine away, kept the car as a project.
Loose torque converter bolts can make what sounds like rod knock.
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The OP has no business doing anything but taking the car to a good mechanic for a professional opinion.
