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Thanks all for your comments and advice. As I said in my OP, I cannot afford a Toyota, they are really expensive no matter how old they are, and in New Hampshire rust is a real issue, so I am trying to get as new a truck as I can. Frontiers are also expensive, so I am trying to get the most reliable truck out of the pool that is left.
Because of the rust problem, I have seriously considered buying the truck in California and having a friend/relative drive it out here, then paying for their airfare home. It might be worth the airfare and gas if I could get a vehicle with no rust. Rust simply was not an issue in SoCal. Unfortunately, I have run out of time for that as I have to get the vehicle soon.
While we're at it, if anybody knows and cares to answer, is it true that parking a vehicle on a dirt driveway versus a paved one increases the rate at which rust will occur? I have read varying opinions on this. I guess it makes sense that the moisture is held in the ground and migrates under the vehicle, but would it cause a vehicle to go from a little body rust to the entire undercarriage rusted out in two years?
I don't think parking on dirt affects anything much. I grew up in an area down south that had dirt roads and driveways everywhere, and rust was virtually non-existent. It's mostly road salt that's used to melt snow that rusts vehicles out. Whatever you get, wash it obsessively in the winter if you don't want rust. They all rust eventually in the north.
If you want a cheap vehicle with no rust, I'd recommend a smaller-sized town down south. They'll probably be a good bit cheaper than in California. They're big on pickups, so you'll have plenty to choose from. Unless you're just really wanting a vacation to the west coast. Then it's a twofer.
Guess you missed the part about frame rot, his current vehicle rotting out, and the fact its out of his Price range.
Beyond socal, there is also the south we don't have rust issues below where salt is used. I have a 27 year old Chevy only sign of rust is the battery tray because batteries are prone to corrosion.
If you're looking for a 4 cylinder Ranger I would look pre 2000(?) when it still had the 2.5 L 4. The 2.3 seemed a bit weaker to me. I had two 2.5s and was extremely impressed with their longevity, durability, and fuel economy, even with a load.
I now have a 3.0 V6 Ranger. I love the truck, but I'd probably rather have the 4.0. I don't think there's much diffrence in fuel economy but it's a much stronger engine.
I'd second the S10 4.3 V6 recomendation. Great engine. However in a battle of 4 cylinders, Ranger wins everytime (so long as Toyota's not playing ;-))
I'd be surprised that a Duratec 2.3L Ranger (~140 horsepower and better MPGs than the slow four cylinders of old) couldn't be had, mainly since they were only in regular cabs when the engine was introduced in mid-2001 all the way until Ford remembered that fuel-efficient smaller trucks did sell at one time before loading them up with options and selling them at full-size prices...
Wouldn't go any other direction. No dizzy like the 4.3L, only four spark plugs on this four cylinder (not that I found my old eight-plug 2.3L hard to deal with), timing chain...seems like a snap to deal with.
Can you explain this? My mom's 2000 S-10 with the 4 cylinder engine only gets mid 20s. How can this be?
I don't know if its the case with this particular engine. But sometimes 4 cylinder vehicles, are a little more underpowered and requires the vehicle to be "revved out" to travel in day to day traffic. While a v6 can keep low rpms and use less fuel.
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1999 ford ranger
