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Old 06-30-2012, 06:29 AM
 
Location: Southwest Nebraska
1,297 posts, read 4,767,964 times
Reputation: 910

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I have a 2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 that is near excellent condition. One major problem is motor is not good, using 1 qt./800 miles. It has 150,000 miles on it. Already put new tires, front brakes, serp. belt, and windshield.

Did not realize motor problems at first.

I have been looking at getting basic New transportation cause I'm tire of all repairs on older models. I have been looking at 2012 Ford F150 XL Plus Reg. cab, 8 ft. box 4x4 with 5.0 engine. After all rebates and trade allowance of 6000.00 on Expedition ( I owe 6000.00) the lowest price is 28,000.00 and that is a 600 mile round trip to get it.

So I was wondering if it would be better to put new crate motor in mine and if the new 5.0 would line up or could be modified some. Since everything else is in such good shape. I realize I might have to pay maybe 5,000.00 to install but still cheaper at 11,000.00 total than 28,000.00.

Any comments good or bad welcome.
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:58 AM
 
Location: Summerville, SC
3,382 posts, read 8,645,966 times
Reputation: 1457
Horrible idea.


A new crate motor like that might even be like $7-8k, you would alo need to make many modifications to have it fit and run right, and meet emmissions standards, if you ahve them.


And at the end of the day... you have a 2000 Expedition with 150k, that will have unrelated issues do to highmileage. The vehicle will nickel and dime you to death, between being 150k+ and the fact its a motor converted retrofit.

This is still assuming all of your accessories are internchangeable, and if they will interface properly with your vehicle.


I'd look for a 1-2 year used vehicle.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:15 AM
 
2,729 posts, read 5,367,641 times
Reputation: 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigg Mann View Post
I have a 2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 that is near excellent condition. One major problem is motor is not good, using 1 qt./800 miles. It has 150,000 miles on it. Already put new tires, front brakes, serp. belt, and windshield.

Did not realize motor problems at first.

I have been looking at getting basic New transportation cause I'm tire of all repairs on older models. I have been looking at 2012 Ford F150 XL Plus Reg. cab, 8 ft. box 4x4 with 5.0 engine. After all rebates and trade allowance of 6000.00 on Expedition ( I owe 6000.00) the lowest price is 28,000.00 and that is a 600 mile round trip to get it.

So I was wondering if it would be better to put new crate motor in mine and if the new 5.0 would line up or could be modified some. Since everything else is in such good shape. I realize I might have to pay maybe 5,000.00 to install but still cheaper at 11,000.00 total than 28,000.00.

Any comments good or bad welcome.
Unfortunately, you're kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place. You owe more than the Expedition is worth, and it needs work.

Unless there were extraordinary reasons for doing so, I would never put a new engine in a 12-year old vehicle. However, you may be able to get a really good used engine installed for a total of about $2500. Might be worth giving it a look.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:21 AM
 
Location: Denver, CO
3,135 posts, read 11,885,624 times
Reputation: 2494
Drive it for another year and then move on. Oil is cheap to keep it running.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:25 AM
 
689 posts, read 2,160,160 times
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In fact, you will never need to change your oil again. You keep putting clean in every 800 miles, which is a complete change ever 3 or 4 thousand, and you don't even have to change the filter, because your dirty oil is burning off or leaking out. You are slowly changing your oil, instead of all alt once.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:32 AM
 
2,729 posts, read 5,367,641 times
Reputation: 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by PokerMunkee View Post
Drive it for another year and then move on. Oil is cheap to keep it running.
This is a good point. Actually, a quart ever 800 miles isn't all that bad - even though it's likely to continue to get worse.

Several years ago I had a work truck that started going to pot. I couldn't afford to be without it, so I slogged it through an entire work season - almost a year - before I had a chance to roll it in the shop and swap engines. I was going through a LOT more oil than a quart ever 800 miles!
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:38 AM
 
8,402 posts, read 24,215,373 times
Reputation: 6822
There is the consideration of how much oil and associated contaminants are being dumped on the ground or released into the air.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:00 AM
 
11,555 posts, read 53,154,100 times
Reputation: 16348
Just for grins ... on a couple of higher mileage local vehicles that were starting to burn oil at about the same rate as your vehicle ... we tried adding the Lucas engine oil additive at the rate of 30% of the oil capacity at an oil change.

The oil consumption rate on all the vehicles went back to a quart every 1,500-1,700 miles, which is an entirely acceptable range.

Don't know if this will work in your vehicle, but for the cost of a few quarts of the stuff to try, it may be worth it. We've also tried doing this in tractors, and it dried up oil consumption to very acceptable levels and no blue smoke in operation.

At that, a quart of oil every 800 miles isn't a terribly daunting cost of operation with $3.00 qt oil ... that's .00375 dollars per mile. You've got to go 100 miles to use 38 cents worth of oil; if that's a big cost factor in your operation, then you've got other problems. Consider that 800 miles/quart oil consumption was exceptionally good on engines of just a few years agon.

As far as exhaust emissions, the catalytic converter is well able to process this minimal amount of hydrocarbon without distress.

The alternative of installing a serviceable used engine may also be worth your while. I've seen them from time to time at less than $1,000 ... and install isn't a big deal labor expense. It comes down to how much do you want to keep this vehicle in operation ... especially when you are this far upside-down into it.

Last edited by sunsprit; 06-30-2012 at 08:11 AM..
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:10 AM
 
19,114 posts, read 25,309,475 times
Reputation: 25423
In addition to the other good advice that has been given, I want to point out to the OP that his plan has another major flaw, namely the issue of the ECM and TCM!

The ECM for the 5.4 engine is different from that of the 5.0 engine. Even if he transplants the ECM for a 5.0 engine into his vehicle, the ECM has to be able to communicate properly with the existing TCM, which was designed to communicate with the ECM for the 5.4 engine. The result will be a vehicle that does not run properly and would likely have very weird shift patterns.

The OP either needs to get a used engine of the exact same type for his Expedition or move on to a different vehicle.

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Old 06-30-2012, 10:18 AM
 
Location: Texas
5,717 posts, read 18,909,338 times
Reputation: 11225
Those 5.4's are pretty long life engines. I'd give it a little TLC before jerking it out. Those engines use a low tension ring pack and are subject to oil usage. There's several ways to loosen them up. Might try next oil change to use G Oil available at most Walmarts. It's the only ester based oil on the market and has tremendous solvency. Or you might find some Rotella straight 30 available at most NAPA houses. It's got a pretty strong detergent package. Use only a Motorcraft or Purolator filter on it. NEVER use a solvent based flush unless its a last ditch effort. Most do more damage than good. The only engine flush out there worth having is expensive but it works. It's called Auto-Rx. It's a mix of lanolin esters that will slowly clean the internals and condition seals. This is in the area of last ditch effort as the stuff is over 20 bucks a bottle and you'll probably need 3.
Another area of concern on those engines for oil usage is the PCV. Use ONLY a Motorcraft part or expect oil usage to go up. They're pretty finicky about what parts they work best with. If you ever get a P0171 code on it or it idles rough, change the entire PCV system. Costs about 80 bucks. Issue is that the rubber hose at the elbow develops pinhole leaks causing more air than the PCM can account for. If you decide to tune it by changing spark plugs, this YM engine is notorious for spitting the plugs out. Torque plugs to 28 lbs or expect to have to use a Timecert to fix it.
In regards to the 5.0, decent engine but it also comes with issues for a transplant. I'd suggest trying to find a new truck that's been T Boned or rear ended in a junk yard. You'll need the transmission, brackets, and other accessories to make it work. Getting it to run will require a custom tune in that vehicle. It can be done but expect to spend more than you think. With the new engines, it either works as a unit or it doesn't work at all. The days of odd transplants are pretty much gone.
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