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Old 11-10-2013, 05:35 PM
 
Location: Warren County, NJ
706 posts, read 768,261 times
Reputation: 1070

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarageLogic View Post
Believe it or not, it's likely that this is a glitch in the security system. And it's remotely possible it could be your ignition switch.
I had an 05 Ion. It never stopped while driving,but sometimes I would stop at a store,or for gas,and the car wouldn't restart for 10 minutes.I was told it had to do with the pass key security system.Which is to say,the car wasn't recognizing the key.What you say makes sense,GarageLogic.
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:49 PM
 
2,341 posts, read 8,695,821 times
Reputation: 2040
Quote:
Originally Posted by exnj1970 View Post
I had an 05 Ion. It never stopped while driving,but sometimes I would stop at a store,or for gas,and the car wouldn't restart for 10 minutes.I was told it had to do with the pass key security system.Which is to say,the car wasn't recognizing the key.What you say makes sense,GarageLogic.
Sadly, by the time Saturn was buried, it was long-since time. They had a lot of bizarre little glitches with their cars during that era. What started out as a good idea, and good company, ended up a dismal failure. Typical GM management.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:06 AM
 
1 posts, read 2,221 times
Reputation: 10
I have same problem, every winter, about every two weeks my car wont turn on, after about 10 minutes it will turn on, but at least once or twice during the winter the car will die while I am driving it and not turn back on till the next day, I have taken to multiple mechanics and no one can tell what the problem is..HEEEELLLP
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:18 AM
 
Location: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
10,715 posts, read 22,321,366 times
Reputation: 5137
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinsativ View Post
My car did that last week, on the highway, Had 5 gallons of gas, but, Texas heat, big flat gas tank, and very slow hot traffic, car died, I was able to maneuver it to the inside shoulder, I was driving in the left lane of traffic, couldn't get to the right shoulder. I tried restarting it 3 or 4 times, would only start for a second, and die, after 30 minutes, I was able to get it restarted long enough to get it across the freeway onto the right shoulder, it died again, and again, then, the last time, I had foot on brake, and gas, got it running, threw it in gear, and got it running down the road, I was hoping to get to an exit, but as I forced it, all of a sudden it backfired twice, and started running perfect.
I talked to the tow truck driver I had called when I called him back to cancel the request, he said probably a vapor lock, I havent heard of these in long time, but the next day when I filled the car full of gas, it released an enormous amount of vapor from the tank. It was recommended if it ever happens again to release the gas cap as the heat and vapor had probably forced hot vapor air into the gas line and the car was trying to run on air. Crazy but I experienced it last tuesday 7/31 on IH 35 going to Schertz.
Ouch have to be careful you do not fry your fuel pump... I would suggest trying to keep it above a 1/4 tank to keep the pump cool and from sucking up gunky fuel sediment from the bottom of the tank
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:48 AM
 
1,690 posts, read 2,009,467 times
Reputation: 2592
Quote:
Originally Posted by High_Plains_Retired View Post
Your car doesn't happen to be a Nissan 3.3 L (V6) by chance? Right now I'm working with a 2003 Nissan Frontier supercharged truck that died on my daughter this past spring. This truck has fire at the plugs (albeit a seemingly weak orange spark), compression, timing, a new fuel pump and fuel injectors that are getting a pulsing current (noid light test). Although the DTC code has now disappeared when I disconnected the battery to replace the fuel pump, the only code that I found when I started the analysis was P0328, a knock sensor code. My daughter also now tells me her "Service Engine Soon" light had been on for some time before the engine stalled. This engine now cranks endlessly without starting. I have yet to check the fuel pressure because Nissan did not put an fuel pressure test port on this truck.
Read the original post. She said it is a Saturn.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:57 AM
 
1,690 posts, read 2,009,467 times
Reputation: 2592
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddy52 View Post
I bought a new 72 Cuda 340 ( first model with electronic ignition)

It started doing that driving home from work.
I brought it to the small dealership and it didn't do it.

After brining it back about 4 times the older mechanic told me to go for a drive. About 12 miles away it did it.

He figured out it was a condenser on the firewall by the engine.

Problem solved !
I trust nobody will think this anecdote in any way applies to the problem in the Saturn.

I have had people tell me they used to have a car that "did the exact same thing" as their current car's problem. They tell me all about carburetor or points issues as if the story would help out this 35 year shop owner. The story relates to problems in technology that hasn't been used for 30-40 years!

Don in Austin
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:02 PM
 
226 posts, read 708,318 times
Reputation: 135
Are you guys sure it's not the crankshaft position sensor in the process of failing?
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:36 PM
 
Location: Not far from Fairbanks, AK
16,166 posts, read 27,421,913 times
Reputation: 11834
Quote:
Originally Posted by High_Plains_Retired View Post
Sounds like your ignition switch may be dying. Some of the Saturns did have ignition switch problems. My sister and BIL had a Saturn with a switch that was going bad.
I have a 1987 Honda Civic that would turn the motor off while I was driving, and it turned out to be the ignition switch. The problem with the switch was that it was binding or something, and it would slip off the ON position. I ended buying a new switch, and then realized that all I had to do was to lubricate the switch spring assembly (near the key).

What I did to duplicate the problem was as follows: on my driveway with the motor running, I lightly wiggle the ignition key toward the OFF position, but not forcefully enough to turn it off. It took several tries before I duplicated it.

The electrical contacts on a lot of the switches are located a few inches away from the key itself. All I had to do was to lubricate the switch and steering lock mechanism.

Last edited by RayinAK; 11-24-2013 at 12:49 PM..
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:44 PM
 
Location: TX and NM on the border of the Great Southwest.
11,767 posts, read 15,788,877 times
Reputation: 22398
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don in Austin View Post
Read the original post. She said it is a Saturn.
Yes but I wasn't replying to the OP's Saturn problem.
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:01 PM
 
Location: TX and NM on the border of the Great Southwest.
11,767 posts, read 15,788,877 times
Reputation: 22398
Quote:
Originally Posted by RayinAK View Post
I have a 1987 Honda Civic that would turn the motor off while I was driving, and it turned out to be the ignition switch. The problem with the switch was that it was binding or something, and it would slip off the ON position. I ended buying a new switch, and then realized that all I had to do was to lubricate the switch spring assembly (near the key).
Most of these newer ignition switches are really weak in construction. When we bought my wife her then new fully loaded 2004 Montana minivan, I knew she normally uses her keychain to carry numerous other keys, a small flashlight as well as the manufacturer's transmitter FOB. I told her she really needed to clean up her five pound keychain or face an expensive ignition switch R&R. She did eventually remove much of the weight from her keychain but not before we started having problems with the ignition. Every now and again, you can turn the ignition but nothing happens until you wiggle it.

I think the old ignition switches (1920s - 1970s?) used a black graphite lubricant in them but I don't know what these new ones are lubricated with, if at all.
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