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In industrial lubricants, Royal Purple is the top shelf oil. In motor oils, there's absolutely nothing remarkable about it except the color purple and the cost. RP makes nothing, they are a blender. They get their base oil from BP Houston and Infinium does the additive package for them. The most expensive ingredient in the formulation is the purple dye. I'm assuming since the car has the mileage you posted and it's now 12 years old, you don't drive it much- maybe 7-8,000 a year, assuming linear useage. If that's correct, any of the oils on the market today, even Walmart oil, are miles ahead of the technology of 2001 when the car was new. The synthetics have pretty much stayed static in their technology but the blends have exploded and in most cases will best the synthetics. There's no reason to use a high priced synthetic unless you just want it. In that arena using the lowest wear metals as a caliper, Pennzoil Ultra or their Platinum is tops. Next would be Kendall Titanium. Otherwise, pick a brand of a blend, make sure it's of the correct viscosity, wears the GM certs on the bottle, sit back and enjoy the ride.
In regards to oil filters. I could write a book on the filtration methods used by various makers but I'll shorten it down to a couple of statements. If you want great filtration, you'll sacrifice flow to get it. If you want more flow, you'll sacrifice filtration to get it. It's hard to beat a Purolator filter. We could chat about Beta Ratios and all the other crapola but when the dust clears, the Purolators will win by being the best compromise, which all oil filters are. FWIW, GM and Ford both have TSBs to dealers that any oil related failures of their vehicles that come in the shop with a Fram filter will not be considered for warranty and the filter is to be documented and the warranty stopped on the vehicle. Don't be an unsuspecting claimant.
Hello, owner of a 2001 Camaro Z28 with 92,500 miles on the clock. I figure the car is old enough already and becoming high mileage enough now that I ought to start working on some serious maintenance for the car before things start falling into catastrophic disrepair. Just wanted an idea of things I should work on or get replaced/fixed, I have my own list, but if I leave anything out please let me know.
1. Timing Belt
2. Spark Plugs/Wires
3. coolant flush
4. Transmission fluid flush
5. Fuel filter replacement
6. Brakes al'round
7. Front wheel bearing grease replace, rear axle seals inspect/replace
8. Visually inspect 100% length of all brake/fluid lines/hoses under car bumper to bumper for corrosion (use a very bright flash light and a hand mirror)
9. Inspect/repair Air Conditioner/heater lines & core
6. Brakes al'round
7. Front wheel bearing grease replace, rear axle seals inspect/replace
8. Visually inspect 100% length of all brake/fluid lines/hoses under car bumper to bumper for corrosion (use a very bright flash light and a hand mirror)
9. Inspect/repair Air Conditioner/heater lines & core
I probably should have listed maintenance I have already done to the car in the past year.
Put brand new brake discs and pads on the car in January of 2012.
Replaced rear axle and differential and wheel bearings, had front bearings inspected and they looked fine.
What I am a little concered about is the tie rods...don't those usually need changing at or around 100k miles?
6. Brakes al'round
7. Front wheel bearing grease replace, rear axle seals inspect/replace
8. Visually inspect 100% length of all brake/fluid lines/hoses under car bumper to bumper for corrosion (use a very bright flash light and a hand mirror)
9. Inspect/repair Air Conditioner/heater lines & core
I probably should have listed maintenance I have already done to the car in the past year.
Put brand new brake discs and pads on the car in January of 2012.
Replaced rear axle and differential and wheel bearings, had front bearings inspected and they looked fine.
What I am a little concered about is the tie rods...don't those usually need changing at or around 100k miles?
At 100K a good complete front end check is money well spent so get that done. The best tool in a tool box is the grease gun. If used at every oil change a great deal of wear and break downs is avoided.
Unless the parts in the front end have been replaced, a grease gun is worthless under that car. It came from the factory with a sealed front end meaning there are are no grease fittings and no place to install any. Tie rods, ball joints, all it has are sealed units and are not serviceable. Should you replace them, make sure they have the grease fittings as many of the replacement parts are not serviceable.
Unless the parts in the front end have been replaced, a grease gun is worthless under that car. It came from the factory with a sealed front end meaning there are are no grease fittings and no place to install any. Tie rods, ball joints, all it has are sealed units and are not serviceable. Should you replace them, make sure they have the grease fittings as many of the replacement parts are not serviceable.
I was just about to say this...the last two Chevy's I have owned are the same way, nothing to grease.
For transmission fluid and high miles, this is how I handle it: Detach the line from the discharge side of the transmission cooler, using a separate piece of tubing purchased from the parts store, install on discharge side of cooler and run open end into a container (preferably with volume indication). Start engine and allow 2-3 quarts to be pumped into container. Shut off engine. Replenish with 2-3 quarts of new fluid.
Do this 2-3 times until you have put 6 new quarts into system. Perform this process again in 3k miles. Roughly speaking (due to intermixing of new and old fluid) you are replacing the fluid 50% of the previous remaining, ‘original’ fluid, volume each time. So after first partial flush you have ~50% original fluid, 2nd flush ~25%, 3rd flush ~12%... etc.
I recommend about 3 flushes or 18 quarts to thoroughly replace 12 quarts of original fluid. The partial flush and 3k miles is to allow friction materials (clutches/bands) to gradually acclimate to the new fluid. Also if it is due for a filter, perform that first and count the fluid removed as your first “partial flush” cycle.
TrapperL, You seem better versed in synthetics than most.
I've been running M1 5-30 in my Z06 and my Subaru Turbo. I finally used up all I've purchased and decided to go with Rotella T6 5-40. Any issues with Rotella that you are aware of?
Forgot to mention, I also had my brake lines bled and the brake fluid flushed and refilled, so those are covered too.
Seems like the general consensus is this:
1. Check/replace belts and hoses
2. Spark Plugs/wires
3. Coolant flush
4. Transmission fluid swap (not flush)
5. Check/replace front end suspension parts and mounts
6. Air filter and AC filter if necessary.
7. Wheel bearings if needed
And that should be it for another 100,000 miles!
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