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Heck, when I do my own oil changes I'm still looking at $65 as a minimum. 7 Qt's of VW 502 approved oil (not sold in the big 5 qt jugs) plus a the filter isn't cheap. Costs me about $70 to have the dealership do the oil change, and save me the time and effort.
I'm sitting here with a blown transmission in a John Deere tractor because the manual said the hydrostatic transmission oil/fluid never needed changed........ho-hum!
The engine oil and filter were changed every 50 hours.
It still runs 100%.
I'm an old school 3K guy on oil.....I've extended that to 5K for modern synthetics in some light use vehicles. If I forgot...I'd NEVER let it go past 7,500.....
Oil is cheap and easy to change compared to the alternative.
I don't put much faith in owners manuals either.
They are in business to build and SELL YOU A NEW one!
I'm sitting here with a blown transmission in a John Deere tractor because the manual said the hydrostatic transmission oil/fluid never needed changed........ho-hum!
The engine oil and filter were changed every 50 hours.
It still runs 100%.
I'm an old school 3K guy on oil.....I've extended that to 5K for modern synthetics in some light use vehicles. If I forgot...I'd NEVER let it go past 7,500.....
Oil is cheap and easy to change compared to the alternative.
I don't put much faith in owners manuals either.
They are in business to build and SELL YOU A NEW one!
If your John Deere tractor has a TuffTorq K46 hydrostat, it's blown because that particular transmission sucks.
Pretty much every single oil analysis I've seen the oil, synthetic or otherwise, is fine at 10,000. If it's not fine, it's because there's something wrong with the engine. Engines running too rich and the fuel contamination is lowering the viscosity, coolant in the oil causing premature bearing wear, that type of thing. Changing oil more frequently is going to mask those problems... but considering it's only masking them and it doesn't cost anymore to have the oil tested than it does to mask the problem with unnecessary oil changes, there's not much reason for it. If you know the engine already has a problem and just don't want to pay to fix it, however, I can see the point of changing it every 3k. You'd be far better off following the maintenance interval and spending the $30 on shipping/analysis to determine that, however.
Last 2 engines I heard of that were pushed to 10k between oil changes, didn't make it past the 10k mark before the rods exited the block.
The majority of BMWs are going to 15k without oil changes and aren't suffering catastrophic failure. That has really nothing to do with oil. Old oil is a long-term wear and tear issue, and engines failing with less than 10,000 miles really has nothing to do with it. Sounds more like someone who doesn't know how to drive a stick overrevving when they go to shift from 2nd to 3rd at near readline and accidentally put it in first.
The majority of BMWs are going to 15k without oil changes and aren't suffering catastrophic failure. That has really nothing to do with oil. Old oil is a long-term wear and tear issue, and engines failing with less than 10,000 miles really has nothing to do with it. Sounds more like someone who doesn't know how to drive a stick overrevving when they go to shift from 2nd to 3rd at near readline and accidentally put it in first.
There is still a lot of factory manuals that specify 3k and 5k though. It depends on the vehicle. I would never run a truck that kind of milage. 7,500 would be really pushing it. Blow your engine trying to prove a point? Nah, Autozone and Advanced have all I need.
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