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03 acura rsx, automatic, 150k miles has rebuilt starter about 3 yrs old. Car isnt starting periodically, about 2 or 3 times a week now. If i keep cranking the key eventually it starts, now after about 30 tries. When it doesnt start its basically silent. Last night i heard a slight electrical humming sound when it didnt start. Several mechanics have told me they cant find the issue unless it doesnt start for them. I dont want to wait until i need a tow so will have to change one or both. I'm guessing starter. battery, alternator and other issues have been ruled out. Any ideas? just change both?
You have very poor description of what your car does.
Cranking everywhere means - STARTER is turning the engine over, hence, your starter IS working. Outside of it being rebuilt, then you got what you paid for.
Slight electrical humming is normally FUEL PUMP working. As in Hondas, pump is right underneath the rear seat and you can hear it prime.
So my question to you, as of course, you did not read Honda specific troubleshooting I posted, or followed the flow chart, does the starter turn the engine for 30 times? Or you simply crank THE KEY 30 times before starter kicks in and engine turns and starts? In first case, you flood the engine. In 2nd case, either ignition switch is bad, which is very common on Hondas, or your rebuilt starter is going south, but it still should be making some noises, as in - relays clicking, etc.
Basically, if your starter turns the engine, there is no point in replacing it. If your starter does not engage at all, under battery ruled out, it's either bad ground on it, or ignition switch. Used to be main relay for all of those problems, but for your year, they changed, I believe.
Also, do not rule out the worst of them all - your computer. THAT gonna bite you.
And you need better mechanics. They are milking you replacing on guess. Worst type.
Since you are not "mechanically inclined" and "can't be stranded", I guess you are best to start guessing and replacing parts. Maybe start with having the starter replaced, then if you still have the problem have the key switch replaced.
(I would be carrying around a multimeter and alligator clip test leads. Then use that to see exactly where the problem is the next time it happens.)
New member here with the same problem with my 2004 RSX. Battery is good, cables are clean and tight, starter was replaced ~4 years ago. The problem (requires multiple turns of the key in the switch before the starter kicks in) only happens after the car has been sitting for several hours, like overnight. Once the starter decides to work and the engine starts I can shut it off and restart with no problems, over and over. Acura techs couldn't duplicate the problem, so they have no idea what is causing this. I'll check the connections on the ECU but I suspect the ignition switch is failing. All help appreciated. Thanks!
New member here with the same problem with my 2004 RSX. Battery is good, cables are clean and tight, starter was replaced ~4 years ago. The problem (requires multiple turns of the key in the switch before the starter kicks in) only happens after the car has been sitting for several hours, like overnight. Once the starter decides to work and the engine starts I can shut it off and restart with no problems, over and over. Acura techs couldn't duplicate the problem, so they have no idea what is causing this. I'll check the connections on the ECU but I suspect the ignition switch is failing. All help appreciated. Thanks!
It could be the ignition switch as you suspect. However, I'd start right in the middle of the circuit in my diagnosis next time it acts up: Starter cut relay in the IP fuse block - this will tell you exactly which direction you need to look for the faulty component
First and easiest: tap the relay while trying to crank. It may just be a bad relay and often jostling will make it work.
Next: check relay output to starter solenoid. Output voltage = starter problem, or open in it's circuit. No output voltage = let's work backwards from the relay. Check the B+ input to the relay when ignition switch engaged. NO input voltage to relay = ignition switch, or open in it's circuit.. Voltage = let's look at the clutch(if standard)/park position (if autmatic) ground input at relay. No ground = clutch switch or PPS, or open in it's circuit.
Now, if you have any sort of factory, or aftermarket anti-theft on the vehicle, that will complicate the situation and needs to be taken under consideration as well.
*EDIT* - just saw the video posted. Yes, it could be the starter, but that vid does nothing to diagnose or make definitive the starter at fault. Could still just as well be relay, clutch/PPS switch, open circuit, or theft deterrent issue. That video basically only eliminates the battery as being at fault.
Last edited by rattle axis; 03-11-2015 at 07:48 AM..
Instead of paying for a new starter look online for a local shop that rebuilds them. It cost me $75 to have my starter rebuilt which was better than $450 for a new one. I wasn't sure what the problem was but since then I haven't had any issues.
Instead of paying for a new starter look online for a local shop that rebuilds them. It cost me $75 to have my starter rebuilt which was better than $450 for a new one. I wasn't sure what the problem was but since then I haven't had any issues.
Most auto stores and repair shops not including dealers only use rebuilt starters and alternators. Thats why you pay a core charge when you bring back your old starter or alternator they give you back your core charge. Becausr they will send them back to be rebuilt. If you want new you pay more and they have to order them. They don't keep new ones on hand.
Most auto stores and repair shops not including dealers only use rebuilt starters and alternators. Thats why you pay a core charge when you bring back your old starter or alternator they give you back your core charge. Becausr they will send them back to be rebuilt. If you want new you pay more and they have to order them. They don't keep new ones on hand.
The shop I went to actually rebuilds them there. You give them the starter or in my case they took the starter out of my car, rebuilt it and then put it back in. $50 to take out the starter (and back in) and $75 for the rebuild.
I wanted to do the cheaper route just in case it wasn't the starter and it was the ignition switch, no sense in paying $450 (new starter) if that wasn't exactly the issue.
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