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Over the weekend, I replaced a leaking water pump in my 2002 R/T
It wasn't making noise, just a small leak.
Even with the leak, the engine never over heated.
I picked up a new pump (not re-manufactured),coolant, thermostat gasket, serpentine belt, and before installing it, I removed the radiator, and flushed it out completely.
I then drained the block, and flushed it out as well.
Once I had everything installed, the engine runs hot, and I noticed the coolant level in the coolant reservoir never went down.
I didn't add coolant at this point (just water) because I wanted to test the system for leaks.
I filled the radiator and fully expected that to fill the block, thus lowering the level in the reservoir.
As I said, the level in the reservoir stayed the same, and the temp gauge, which always stayed just below the half way mark rose much above the half way point.
When I shut the engine down, I could hear the hot water bubbling in the system.
Also, while running the heater, it only managed to blow semi warm air, not hot as it usually does.
I am really amiss as to what I did, or didn't do.
Any ideas?
All help is greatly appreciated.
Bob.
The sounds of water boiling at local hot spots in the engine block on shut-down and the heater only blowing warm air with very hot water in the system are classic signs of an air block in the cooling system or the radiator pressure cap not holding system pressure.
With the system previously cooling properly, it's unlikely that the radiator cap failed during your repair work.
So, you need to bleed out the cooling system. Simply filling the radiator will not accomplish this, especially if you didn't have the bleeder valve open to release air when you were filling the system. I also help burp the system when filling by squeezing the lower radiator hose to help agitate the coolant, so the sloshing around helps dislodge air pockets in the engine.
Typically, after initial filling of the system: Start with the engine cold. Take the pressure cap off the reservoir, crack the bleeder open, put a snug-fitting clear hose on the bleeder and submerge the other end of the hose into the open reservoir that has coolant in it. Start the engine. As the engine gradually warms up and the thermostat gradually opens, flow rate through the system increases and more trapped air will bleed out. Rev the engine periodically. Continue until the engine is close to full operating temp. Shut down, close everything up and you're basically done. Don't over tighten the bleeder - just nice and snug. Make sure the reservoir is well topped-up.
Sometimes, certain cars can be a little tricky to bleed all the air out of
x3. Replaced the waterpump in my MOPAR 4.7L and and to bleed it again & again to ensure all the air got out. Solved the problem of coolant level never going down in the res tank and running hot.
The worst time i had bleeding a system was my dad's 2005 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7L V8. There is something about that motor that likes to trap air at the top of the motor. It took my friend and me almost 3 hours to get to air out.
Not sure what car you have (2002 R/T doesn't help. Could be a Stratus, Neon, Dakota, etc.).
These other guys have hit it. You've got air in the system. Some cars "bleed" themselves. For others you just have to massage the upper radiator those. Then there are those few that are like the one BostonMike7 had...
Keep your head up. Unless you completely biffed the wp replacement - which I doubt - you're on the right track.
One last bit of advice learned from experience: when you replace the water pump, thermostat, and flush the radiator -- be SURE to replace your hoses.
Cheap insurance, especially if they are the originals from '02. Hope you got the problem resolved for your car!
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