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Old 12-17-2013, 06:45 PM
 
Location: Kansas
19,189 posts, read 14,057,966 times
Reputation: 18141

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We had a lot of work done since the van is older and the shop we had it at couldn't do the muffler job so we took it to a shop they recommended and then after the muffler job and this is the result:

We have a 1993 Club Wagon E350 5.0 liter engine, auto transmission and they replaced both exhaust manifolds braking bolts into the heads and the tube to the EGR valve. They were able to get the bolts out with a little work using a welder and they had to patch the tube to the EGR valve as there are no replacements available from the Ford or aftermarket. After we got the van back, the check engine light came on once the van got warmed up. It went back to the mechanic and he used the high dollar Snap On code reader and said that it was probably (I'm not so sure he got a reading this time either) the EGR valve. Changed the valve. Check engine light came on again when leaving after it warmed up. Took it back and his code reader read that there was no connection to the OBD 1 computer. My husband put his Xray Code Scout 2500 on it and am getting the no connection message. He cleaned the contacts on the connector and checked to see if the wires were connected. He wants to know how to clear the Check Engine Light (I read you disconnect the battery?) and also wants to know if anyone knows why there isn't a connection (possibilities - I read fuse? - hopefully something inexpensive at this point). Any guidance, thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.


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Old 12-17-2013, 08:29 PM
 
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First of all, this is pre-OBD2, so a basic code scanner is not going to work.

Though this video shows the guys retrieving codes off a Ranger, this is the way to read the codes from the Fords of that vintage.

How To Run A Self-Check On Fords 1987-1995 - YouTube
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:04 PM
 
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ok first, the code that comes up only shows the system that is being affected, not what is actually wrong. there are a number of tests that need to be run for each code to determine what exactly is wrong.

as to the no connection issue, that may be a problem with the scanner not reading your vehicles computer, or it might be an improper connection being used. in some ford vehicles there are as many as three different connectors in the same area as the diagnostic port, one pairs up with the diagnostic connector, another connects to the ABS system, and i forget what the third one connects to off hand. these are individual connectors and they all look alike.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:07 PM
 
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Op was only asking how to reset code. OP also showed in the postthat they know it's OBD1 system.

OP, pull ECM fuse out and leave it overnight.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:00 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
Op was only asking how to reset code. OP also showed in the postthat they know it's OBD1 system.

OP, pull ECM fuse out and leave it overnight.
The best way to clear the codes on this particular OBD1 system is to disconnect the negative battery cable for a minimum of 5 minutes.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:36 AM
 
Location: Kansas
19,189 posts, read 14,057,966 times
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Thank you all so much. Good weather here today so maybe he can look at it this afternoon and try suggestions and I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:49 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarageLogic View Post
The best way to clear the codes on this particular OBD1 system is to disconnect the negative battery cable for a minimum of 5 minutes.

The best way to clear any codes on any car is to undo ECM fuse for extended period of time. There is no need to power down other components in a vehicle, which sometimes may result in error codes, requests for nav or head unit security codes, etc. On some vehicles, codes may be so multiple, that it may cost tow to dealership and substantial $$ to have it all cleared. I am aware of at least one Camry owner who ended with $574 bill to clear codes, after battery was disconnected to be replaced with new one.
In vehicles that have separate fuses for BCM and ECM, both need to be pulled. But, ultimately, all codes go to ECM/ECU and are stored there.
If you really want to pull battery cables off, fine by me. Pundits say though, after that is done, to touch + and - cables terminals, to remove any residual electricity in the system.
But, smarter ones say to NOT clear codes, as that is simply masking issue that caused a code.

Now with any diagnosis, the first thing we what to do after verifying the concern is to check the codes. This can be done at just about any chain auto parts store or if you own a code scanner, you can do it yourself.
DO NOT CLEAR THE CODE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is your key to finding out what is going on……we will clear the code after we repair the vehicle.
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:24 AM
 
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Warnings

  • Erasing codes by disconnecting your vehicle's battery can also blow out the memory for your radio and other on-board components. This method is recommended as a last resort.
  • Consult a mechanic or repair shop if the code keeps recurring or if you cannot find information on your code or how to fix it. A qualified mechanic might need to look at your car and reset the codes.
  • The emissions monitors in your vehicle will register being reset, so you will not pass emissions if you bring in a car with the codes being reset. Drive your car for at least 200 miles before bringing it in for an emissions test.
  • Check engine light being on is a sign that there is a problem with the car. Resetting it without ensuring there is a problem can be dangerous.
  • Reputable auto shops will not reset a check engine light if the problem is not fixed. To do so would be illegal.How to Reset Check Engine Light: 6 Steps (with Pictures)
Disconnect the Battery

In some cars, especially those made before the mid-1990s, you can reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery. Newer vehicles have a feature that will simply turn the light back on after the battery is reconnected if the car is not drained of electricity properly, however. You can do this by constantly blowing the car's horn until it dies or turning on the headlights, then waiting several minutes. This will ensure all electrical current has been drained from the car's capacitor. At this point, it should be safe to reconnect the battery and the check engine light should not longer be lit.

Disconnecting the battery will erase all the data from the vehicle's computer, which could make any problems with the car more difficult to diagnose in the future. It will also reset the electronic systems inside the car; if the car has an anti-theft radio system, for example, it will likely go into safe mode and will need a code to unlock it. All radio station presets will also need to be reprogrammed.

If you're trying to turn the light off in hopes of passing an emissions test, this method rarely works. Even if all emissions data is cleared from the computer when the battery is disconnected, the car's systems need to complete a series of tests called a "drive cycle" before it can pass testing; sometimes more than one drive cycle is needed before the car is ready. The chance of the car completing its internal tests and the light not coming back on before the emissions test on is very small.

How Can I Reset My Check Engine Light? (with pictures)

And so on. Like they say - do at your own risk, but definitely do NOT calll this THE BEST way of resetting codes. Issue should be fixed and through several drive cycles, ECM should clear code on its own. Code keeps coming back - problem is not solved and must be addressed.
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:38 AM
 
2,341 posts, read 8,695,821 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
[/i]And so on. Like they say - do at your own risk, but definitely do NOT calll this THE BEST way of resetting codes. Issue should be fixed and through several drive cycles, ECM should clear code on its own. Code keeps coming back - problem is not solved and must be addressed.
OBD1 vs OBD2

Big difference.
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Old 12-18-2013, 03:51 PM
 
46 posts, read 66,989 times
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I visually inspected and ran an ohm meter on the high current fuse. It checked fine. I also swapped the relay for the PCM with the fuel relay. (both are the same) I still could not get a connection with the Xray Code Scout 2500. Decided as a last resort to pull the battery out of the circuit. After all of this, I took it for a short drive, and I still am getting a check engine light. If the PCM was bad, the van would not run. Any ideas what could be wrong. I think I am down to a broken wire. Thank you for the help.

By the way, I am the husband of AnywhereElse.
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