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It appears my 17-yr old Geo Metro's body has finally fallen apart, perhaps beyond reasonable financial repair. It's been a great car & I never had 1 engine problem, but the bottom has rusted out so there is a chunck of metal missing - 2-ft long x 4-in wide, just before the driver's seat. If the carpet weren't there, my foot would hit the road when driving! There is rust creeping up the sides of the car, too. I've had to have that patched up (for $400) so I could pass inspection this summer. I could feel the seat was crooked when driving recently, so there must not be much metal support underneath the driver's seat! (No, it's not all that Halloween candy/Thanksgiving dinner I ate which added a few pounds! Geesh!)
My mechanic will put it on a lift on Thurs to see if he can weld a piece of metal to the bottom to make it safe to drive. (Don't know why he didn't say anything about substantial rust damage when they repaired the rust on the side just a few months ago? They must have used a lift to repair it, yeah?) But he said, he cannot weld metal to rust, so it depends on how far gone it is. I decided if it's $50 or less I'll do it, otherwise, I'll let it go. I've put $2K into it over the past 5-yrs (fixing broken, 17-yr old door locks; hit & run damage to mirrors; new roof (it's a convertible); tires; brakes; muffler; + more), so I'm unwilling to spend anymore $ as it's worth almost nothing.
My questions revolve around safety. I'd like to keep it for 3-mos more, if possible, as I will be beginning PT for 10-wks. I won't be able to attend without my car. Then, if it's safe, I'd like to give the car to my neice in college to drive back & forth to school a few miles. She lives in a small town & doesn't do much highway driving & traffic there is a breeze.
Can someone who has a fair car knowledge, or who has been through this before, give me an idea of:
1. Would you drive a car, after welding, if the driver's seat were slanting due to rusting out? Meaning, is it possible the whole bottom could give way while driving? I'm guessing that if he welds, he won't straighten out the driver's seat?
2. Anyone ever junk a car? I've searched for them online & some say they pay, some advertise free removal. How much could I expect on a running vehicle? $50? 150? Some seem a bit iffy to me, so I don't know how to choose one. Any ideas/recommendations of companies to use?
3. Has anyone donated a car to a reputable charity? I've heard of scams here, too, so if I'll get no $ with a junk/removal company, then I'd prefer to donate it. Any suggestions?
Thank you very much for reading my "Tale of the Little Geo that Can't" & for offering any suggestions. RIP, little dude. This was the best little car I ever had. Sorry to see him go.
ummm.... from your description... there is no way in hell I'd ride in that car. I'd junk it posthaste. I'm not a car expert but I do value my life.
Hi Arthur -
Thanks for your opinion. Yes, safety first. I haven't driven it (save to the mechanic 1/2-mi away) since I noticed the huge chunk of missing metal & rust hanging from the bottom. I know it may sound odd that the seat was slightly tilted & I didn't notice anything, but I don't drive it often (this probably contributed to it's long life) so I don't quite have a "feel" for the car & I never look underneath the car. I didn't notice until it was obvious.
Since I do mainly city driving in bumper to bumper traffic with scant highway driving, I thought perhaps if it's welded, it might be okay. I'll see what the mechanic says on Thurs, but my instinct is to thank little Geo for it's splendid 17-yrs of service & give it a nice burial at sea. Fortunately, I live 3-blocks from said sea...
I appreciate your comments.
Have a great week... VV
If it runs good find a welder and have him cut out the rust and weld in some patch panels, it will cost a lot at a body shop but if you know a welder it can be repaired cheap. As far as safety goes it will be fine, replace the bad metal with good metal.
A junkyard may give you 20 or 30 dollars, if you get rid of it donate it to a chaitity that teaches people how to weld, they will fix it and sell it.
Check with your locals schools, if they have a body shop class or welding, they might fix it for free as a project.
2. Anyone ever junk a car? I've searched for them online & some say they pay, some advertise free removal. How much could I expect on a running vehicle? $50? 150? Some seem a bit iffy to me, so I don't know how to choose one. Any ideas/recommendations of companies to use?
I junked a parts car once. At the time scrap was selling low so I think that I paid $50 for them to come out and get it. But the car had no engine, tranny, rear-end, interior, etc
If it runs good find a welder and have him cut out the rust and weld in some patch panels, it will cost a lot at a body shop but if you know a welder it can be repaired cheap. As far as safety goes it will be fine, replace the bad metal with good metal.
A junkyard may give you 20 or 30 dollars, if you get rid of it donate it to a chaitity that teaches people how to weld, they will fix it and sell it.
Check with your locals schools, if they have a body shop class or welding, they might fix it for free as a project.
Hi Road -
My mechanic, from whom I purchased the car used 14-yrs ago, can weld, so if it's safely salvagable, I'll have him do the welding. Yes, body shops are not the way to go this time - it's just too old so not a good investment.
Since it still runs, I wanted to donate to someone who could use it & scrap it if all else fails. If a school welds it as a class project, what do they do with the car when finished?
I junked a parts car once. At the time scrap was selling low so I think that I paid $50 for them to come out and get it. But the car had no engine, tranny, rear-end, interior, etc
Hi Zig -
Many companies now advertise they'll pay for junk cars or remove them for free. I'm a girl, so I have no idea how to sell parts or how to remove them from the car. I can identify the door handles & the wheel... beyond that, I need flowcharts.
Your car is now a very high risk to drive ! That risk is to you and also your niece, the next potential driver(?)
Also consider something else. IF you have an accident with the car involving another car or even if the car disintegrates on the road - - your insurance company will carefully examine that car and then reject your claim. They will state that you have no right to your claim because the car was in non - drivable condition.
So to reiterate, get rid of the car.
During the 1990s, I owned a Geo - Metro (Suzuki) and the car was designed for a max use of about ten years. Although when new it was a decent car giving me about 50 miles per gallon, when the car started failing after 10 years - - then everything went bad.
Of course, the GM replacement today is the "Aveo" and I have not had any experience with that car.
But the best car I have ever owned - - even better than my 1992 GEO - - is the 2001 Kia - Rio. Since I am a senior citizen at age 66, I have owned a lot of different cars.
My mechanic, from whom I purchased the car used 14-yrs ago, can weld, so if it's safely salvagable, I'll have him do the welding. Yes, body shops are not the way to go this time - it's just too old so not a good investment.
Since it still runs, I wanted to donate to someone who could use it & scrap it if all else fails. If a school welds it as a class project, what do they do with the car when finished?
Thanks for your suggestions... VV
A school will repair it for you, sometimes they charge for materials some charge nothing, it gives the students experiance. A friend had a local college body shop repair and paint his car, the only cost was the paint.
If you wanted to donate the car to a school I'm sure they would be happy to have it, they would use it to teach repairs.
Your car is now a very high risk to drive ! That risk is to you and also your niece, the next potential driver(?)... So to reiterate, get rid of the car.
Hello Carter -
Thank you for your reply. Please be assured I'd only have given it to my neice if my mechanic said it was 100% safe & secure, indeed. It may sound silly, but having limited knowledge of cars, I wasn't sure if my mechanic could sheet metal the entire bottom of the car, giving it a completely new, safe, secure bottom? I have seen antiques, so thought perhaps this wasn't stretching reality to think it could be done.
But, you're right. Wise to use common sense & be happy I got 17-yrs out of it! My instinct is telling me to let it go. Going without a car for the winter will be a blessing in disguise as it will force me to exercise & walk much more, so all is well.
Quote:
During the 1990s, I owned a Geo - Metro (Suzuki) and the car was designed for a max use of about ten years. Although when new it was a decent car giving me about 50 miles per gallon, when the car started failing after 10 years - - then everything went bad.
Believe it or not, mine still gets 40mpg (used to get almost 50, too) after all these years. I wanted to hang onto it for a few more months to finish up my 20 physical therapy appts, but the risk is too great, you're right.
Quote:
But the best car I have ever owned - - even better than my 1992 GEO - - is the 2001 Kia - Rio. Since I am a senior citizen at age 66, I have owned a lot of different cars.
Carter Glass,
Wheaton, IL
My sister had a Kia Rio & loved it. It just ventured off to the Netherworld, too.
My next car will be more sturdy & secure than the Geo. It's a lovely little car to tool around town in & living in Boston, I can park it anywhere. But, the body is quite flimsy & I've always said if I were in an accident, I'd be crushed. It's like a tomato can on wheels.
Thank you again, Carter. I appreciate your response.
Have fun... VV
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