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... There is a solution for you. There are companies out there that make ceramic films that have incredibly high levels of heat and UV rejection. What's even better for you is that they're basically clear films that have higher heat and UV rejection than the limo dark metallic films.
A friend of mine has his windshield tinted with a 70% ceramic film. ....
There is a catch, though. The ceramic films are not cheap. A woman paid $600 at a local tint shop I know to have her whole car done with the stuff.
I too added tint to cut back on the solar heating, and wasn't trying for visible tint. I had to replace my car unexpectedly, and the replacement had black leather interior, (I live in the south east), I knew I'd have to do something! The first few weeks I nearly burnt my hands on the wheel, and my legs on the seat.
After the tint was added, I can leave my car out in the sun all day, open the car, jump in and drive off. The cabin will be warm, but not uncomfortable.
There are 3 kinds of plastic film applied to car glass for tinting and heat protection.
They all provide full protection against UV light (just like sun block), that would otherwise fade fabric, accelerate the aging of plastic, and give sunburns if you in the car long enough).
1) Dyes: Least expensive
-- PROS: Lest tricky to install. Best choice if what you want is cosmetic change only.
-- CONS: color will fade or change after a few years. Smallest amount of heat reflection, must budget regular replacement.
2) Metallic: Moderately expensive,
-- PROS: some protection against IR (Infra Red - the "heat" part of light). Lifetime warrantee if installed by registered dealer
-- CONS: Metal bits might hinder reception of portable GPS, cell phones, and your AM radio (if antenna is INSIDE car as mine AM is and my smartphone's GPS will be).
3) Ceramic: (aka nano-ceramic), Most Expensive (mine was $180 front and $220 sides and rear)
-- PROS: full IR protection, no problem with radios etc. Lifetime warrantee (materials AND labor to re-apply) if installed by registered dealer.
-- CONS: Most difficult to install properly. As said above, most expensive.
I found that that in my state (NC), there are minimum visibility limits that are checked every time I do the annual state inspection. Also, front windshield "tinting" is not allowed, but a 70% or more is acceptable as a clear "glass-treatment".
Also, I know some dealers offer tinting, but installation is a job that's more an art, (like bodywork). Most shop it out to a tint shop where installers do it full-time. So you are MUCH better off finding out who your dealership uses, and then check around (ask the local forums?) for references.
You should sit in a car that has the same kind of tint you are considering, after dark with lights behind, to evaluate the 'glare' that some films produce. My back window blurs car headlights just a bit. It's noticeable, but not objectionable.
This is what I got (minimize tint, maximize heat reflection): Front Windshield
-- 3M Crystalline Automotive Window Films 70% 3M United States: Scotchgard Automotive Protection: Car Buyers
IR Rejection=97%; UV Rejection=99.9%; Total Solar Energy=50%; Visible Light Transmittance=68%
All Other Glass (I had to go to a different film, as the 3M I put on the front was too expensive for using for the sides and rear, the Johnson film didn't come in the very light tint that was needed for the front glass, but worked well for the rest).
-- Johnson Ceramic film, 40% Transmittance (the state legal minimum is 35% and my windows have a bit of factory tint). Insulatir - Automotive | Johnson Window Films
IR Rejection=85%; Total Solar Energy=61%; Visible Light Transmittance=31%
Be careful. From what I have been told cars come from the factory with the maximum legal tint. Besides, unless tint is intrinsically part of the glass I don't trust it.
What you have been told is obviously false, because every state has its own maximum legal tint, with significant variations between them. I doubt if any two states are exactly the same. A car tinted in Nevada , for example, will be illegal in almost every other state, and if you buy a tinted Nevada car, you'll have to remove the tint before you can plate elsewhere. Yes, they all come from the factory with some tint, but it is a low enough level that it is legal in every state -- maybe that's what you mean.
I tint every car. Colorado is 27% on all windows, so I usually go that route. Sometimes I'll do 20% if the car has a light interior. If you do 30%, you will have no issues with visibility.
I too added tint to cut back on the solar heating, and wasn't trying for visible tint. I had to replace my car unexpectedly, and the replacement had black leather interior, (I live in the south east), I knew I'd have to do something! The first few weeks I nearly burnt my hands on the wheel, and my legs on the seat.
After the tint was added, I can leave my car out in the sun all day, open the car, jump in and drive off. The cabin will be warm, but not uncomfortable.
There are 3 kinds of plastic film applied to car glass for tinting and heat protection.
They all provide full protection against UV light (just like sun block), that would otherwise fade fabric, accelerate the aging of plastic, and give sunburns if you in the car long enough).
1) Dyes: Least expensive
-- PROS: Lest tricky to install. Best choice if what you want is cosmetic change only.
-- CONS: color will fade or change after a few years. Smallest amount of heat reflection, must budget regular replacement.
2) Metallic: Moderately expensive,
-- PROS: some protection against IR (Infra Red - the "heat" part of light). Lifetime warrantee if installed by registered dealer
-- CONS: Metal bits might hinder reception of portable GPS, cell phones, and your AM radio (if antenna is INSIDE car as mine AM is and my smartphone's GPS will be).
3) Ceramic: (aka nano-ceramic), Most Expensive (mine was $180 front and $220 sides and rear)
-- PROS: full IR protection, no problem with radios etc. Lifetime warrantee (materials AND labor to re-apply) if installed by registered dealer.
-- CONS: Most difficult to install properly. As said above, most expensive.
I found that that in my state (NC), there are minimum visibility limits that are checked every time I do the annual state inspection. Also, front windshield "tinting" is not allowed, but a 70% or more is acceptable as a clear "glass-treatment".
Also, I know some dealers offer tinting, but installation is a job that's more an art, (like bodywork). Most shop it out to a tint shop where installers do it full-time. So you are MUCH better off finding out who your dealership uses, and then check around (ask the local forums?) for references.
You should sit in a car that has the same kind of tint you are considering, after dark with lights behind, to evaluate the 'glare' that some films produce. My back window blurs car headlights just a bit. It's noticeable, but not objectionable.
This is what I got (minimize tint, maximize heat reflection): Front Windshield
-- 3M Crystalline Automotive Window Films 70% 3M United States: Scotchgard Automotive Protection: Car Buyers
IR Rejection=97%; UV Rejection=99.9%; Total Solar Energy=50%; Visible Light Transmittance=68%
All Other Glass (I had to go to a different film, as the 3M I put on the front was too expensive for using for the sides and rear, the Johnson film didn't come in the very light tint that was needed for the front glass, but worked well for the rest).
-- Johnson Ceramic film, 40% Transmittance (the state legal minimum is 35% and my windows have a bit of factory tint). Insulatir - Automotive | Johnson Window Films
IR Rejection=85%; Total Solar Energy=61%; Visible Light Transmittance=31%
A lot of good info but there are a few errors.....
1. Car interior temps do not vary with color. This was identical cars, both new and tested simultaneously: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=71317
Scroll down to the thread. He included pics of the cars/thermometers
Tint laws vary from state-to-state, so what you "have been told" is wrong in the majority of states. Most tint laws are much more complicated than "cars come from the factory with the maximum legal tint."
Just sayin'.
Alright, talk some more. Give examples of allowable tints by the state. What are factory tint levels? You are not saying much to refute what I said.
Tint is one of the first things I do to every vehicle I buy. These days I go as dark as legally possible, but I used to be a "damn the man" guy and had limo tint on all the side and rear windows of all my vehicles. For me it's just as much about the looks of the dark windows as it is about the privacy and temperature control. Visibility through dark tint has never been an issue for me.
That said, I can sympathize with someone who wants the heat rejection of window tint, but has night vision issues and/or lives in a state with strict laws for tint.
There is a solution for you. There are companies out there that make ceramic films that have incredibly high levels of heat and UV rejection. What's even better for you is that they're basically clear films that have higher heat and UV rejection than the limo dark metallic films.
A friend of mine has his windshield tinted with a 70% ceramic film. I'm not sure if you understand tint measurements, but 70% means it allows 70% of light to pass through. Your cars "clear" stock windows are ~70%, so imagine a pair of those clear windows stacked and that's what you'd have. It'll be right around 50%, which is very light. No one, especially the cops when it comes to your front windows, will know they're tinted. I rode in his truck (black Ford F-250 with a black interior) the day before he had the tint put on the windshield and the day after. The before-and-after difference during a hot Texas summer was amazing!
There is a catch, though. The ceramic films are not cheap. A woman paid $600 at a local tint shop I know to have her whole car done with the stuff.
+1
I also live in nj and was worried about visibility and obeying the law. I had llumar tint put on all of the windows. The front windshield and side windows have a very faintly, barely noticeable uv shield tint that blocks 20% of the heat, and all UVA/UVB rays and it's compliant with nj state laws for the front windshield because the driver is still visible. I bet you could even get away with the 70% film. It's the best thing ever, if you're sensitive to the heat, as well as uv ray damage. The car looks even nicer with the tint too.
Yes it's expensive. I put a darker tint on the rear half of the car because it was slightly cheaper. all together I think it cost me $550 but they did a great job. It was totally worth it. And they knew to remove the inspection sticker before applying the film, and replaced it after the film was applied.
Last edited by arrieros81; 05-03-2014 at 05:00 PM..
OP, you need tint with max heat retention index, not light index. Has none to do with darkness. I have 2 cars COMPLETELY tinted, as in - windshield, all windows, and moonroof, on top of factory tint.
I have very poor dusk vision, and have no problems, as that particular tint is barely noticeable. Btw, whoever said this tint does nothing for heat retention is clueless. It works super well.
You want to have it done by pro shop and have certificate of compliance on hand.
Some states are more tolerant to tinting. Ask your installer, I bet he knows.
So it likes like I should get the LLumar AIR 80 Clear Window Film.
air 80 is awesome on the windshield!
It will mess with your eyes for a day or two if you wear polarized glasses (purplelike haze)
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