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To make a long story short, I took my car to a local Goodyear network mechanic about 2 weeks ago due to a noise/vibration in my front end (Honda Accord 2003).
The mechanic was very busy that day (at least 7 to 8 cars ahead of me), but he called me within 1.5 hours to tell me he had a diagnosis - my motor mount needed to be replaced, and that was causing the noise/vibration.
I thought that it was a quick diagnosis considering a) how many cars were ahead of mine and b) I'd assumed that they'd need to test drive my car to recreate the noise (it's not a noise that can be recreated at will, it probably only happens about 20% of the time).
Anyway - I chalked it up to efficiency (and guessed my motor mount must have been really damaged as there was no shred of doubt in his voice when he called me with the problem).
Fast forward 2 weeks, and my car is now making the exact same noise again. Since what I was told was the issue is not even in my car anymore, and was replaced, obviously, the mechanic was wrong.
What do I even do in this situation? I'll be returning the car to him on Monday, but if he was this "off", I'd be leery to let him do anything else short of him saying "Sorry, I missed this, any additional repairs are on us" (fat chance, I know).
Do I automatically now get a second opinion no matter what he tells me? Demand that he not charge (or at least significantly discount) for any new services?
This really sucks because I just paid him $700 two weeks ago (also had front brakes/rotors replaced). I'm not an ATM!
You need second opinion..get someone check if the work was actually done..these guys saw you coming without experience
Find a good neighbor place..build a relationship with them..
To make a long story short, I took my car to a local Goodyear network mechanic about 2 weeks ago due to a noise/vibration in my front end (Honda Accord 2003).
The mechanic was very busy that day (at least 7 to 8 cars ahead of me), but he called me within 1.5 hours to tell me he had a diagnosis - my motor mount needed to be replaced, and that was causing the noise/vibration.
I thought that it was a quick diagnosis considering a) how many cars were ahead of mine and b) I'd assumed that they'd need to test drive my car to recreate the noise (it's not a noise that can be recreated at will, it probably only happens about 20% of the time).
Anyway - I chalked it up to efficiency (and guessed my motor mount must have been really damaged as there was no shred of doubt in his voice when he called me with the problem).
Fast forward 2 weeks, and my car is now making the exact same noise again. Since what I was told was the issue is not even in my car anymore, and was replaced, obviously, the mechanic was wrong.
What do I even do in this situation? I'll be returning the car to him on Monday, but if he was this "off", I'd be leery to let him do anything else short of him saying "Sorry, I missed this, any additional repairs are on us" (fat chance, I know).
Do I automatically now get a second opinion no matter what he tells me? Demand that he not charge (or at least significantly discount) for any new services?
This really sucks because I just paid him $700 two weeks ago (also had front brakes/rotors replaced). I'm not an ATM!
Here's the thing - if the mechanic was reputable and I have no reason to doubt it, he probably did check out your vehicle on the lift and noticed the broken motor mount. He probably also turned on the vehicle and heard the noise and verified that the noise was coming from the engine rattling (and he thus assumed fixing the motor mount would solve the problem). He then called you, got your permission to replace the broken part and did the repair/replacement. The rattling probably went away briefly but now has come back.
Here's where I am just continuing my deduction of the situation - like a typical doctor today, the broken motor mount was treated but was likely the symptom not the cause of the rattling noise. It is likely the vibration is coming from somewhere else in the engine and the mount was stressed and broken by it. A lot of that is just guessing, as I suspect that you have no idea what engine mount was replaced and cannot verify that it is still in one piece today.
My advice is this:
- in the future always be shown what was done/what was replaced before paying your bill.
- realize that mechanics are not miracle workers, they try to solve problems the same way doctors and judges do, using the information available and then making a judgement call on how to proceed. They are not necessarily smart or smarter people than you are, they just have a lot more experience than you in their specialized area of knowledge. You pay for this experience when you hire a mechanic (like a doctor), but you don't necessarily pay for the "right solution." Recognize that work was put into your vehicle and more work and money will have to be put in to fix and maintain it. Do not feel bad about this, it is just reality.
- Mechanics typically have to make a certain amount of money for their employer each week or month. This is standard practice. Understand that even the best most reputable mechanics are thus motivated (to meet targets to keep their jobs or to exceed targets to make more money, or to make commission to earn a living wage). Unless you do the work and diagnosis yourself, buyer beware.
- Try to isolate where the noise is coming from yourself today. Then bring the vehicle back to the mechanic and tell them that the issue is back, the same noise etc. See what they tell you. Express your concerns without insulting the mechanic that worked on it two weeks ago - just be matter of fact, "I don't have much more money to spend on this vehicle's repair, you tapped me out 2 weeks ago" - I just need it fixed/running well.
Mbuszu..got it right. Read his/her post. That applies to every service industry...
As for your 700. Irrelevant . You can spend 5000 on repairs and not get your problem solve.
You went in for engine vibration and noise. The mechanic put your car on the lift. Within a few minutes he found your motor mount busted... Then at a glance, he notice your brakes was low.
So the shop manager, call you. To say your motor mount is bad. That may be what's causing the noise and vibration. It "NEEDs" to be replace. Also at the same time. He noticed your brakes are low. He "RECOMMEND" replacing it before you go metal on metal. You agreed for the service.
Motor mount parts and labor 250. << I am gonna guess. Your Upper passenger side mount went bad
Brakes and rotors 450.
There goes 700 bucks.
That's just part of there job is to point out what they see is a need and a recommendation. < this is how they make money..
A mechanic always makes recommendations. Don't fix what's recommended. Fix what s needed.
U need to go back there. Tell them the vibration/noise came back. Ask them to look at it again.
Once they find the problem. Ask them to point it out to you.
Let them explain it to you.
If you don't know cars. Don't jus agree to let them fix it. Make them explain it to you. How and why and how much. And what are your options. You can ask for a discount.
Be nice about it. It's a business relation. Don't need to be hostile. It will only hurt your pocket.
Think about it. Do you want to be hostile to your waiter or waitress? It's a service industry too.
Here is another myth. They don't care if you are new or inexperience. Short fat tall. Young or old. Male or female. You are a money sign.
When you come into my facility. I treat you with respect and kindness. You know why. You re bringing me money.
Find a guy who has his own shop and needs the work and ask around I find word of mouth is really the most reliable source when looking for service people . Good luck , car troubles are the worst especially for single girls .
Here's the thing - if the mechanic was reputable and I have no reason to doubt it, he probably did check out your vehicle on the lift and noticed the broken motor mount. He probably also turned on the vehicle and heard the noise and verified that the noise was coming from the engine rattling (and he thus assumed fixing the motor mount would solve the problem). He then called you, got your permission to replace the broken part and did the repair/replacement. The rattling probably went away briefly but now has come back.
Here's where I am just continuing my deduction of the situation - like a typical doctor today, the broken motor mount was treated but was likely the symptom not the cause of the rattling noise. It is likely the vibration is coming from somewhere else in the engine and the mount was stressed and broken by it. A lot of that is just guessing, as I suspect that you have no idea what engine mount was replaced and cannot verify that it is still in one piece today.
My advice is this:
- in the future always be shown what was done/what was replaced before paying your bill.
- realize that mechanics are not miracle workers, they try to solve problems the same way doctors and judges do, using the information available and then making a judgement call on how to proceed. They are not necessarily smart or smarter people than you are, they just have a lot more experience than you in their specialized area of knowledge. You pay for this experience when you hire a mechanic (like a doctor), but you don't necessarily pay for the "right solution." Recognize that work was put into your vehicle and more work and money will have to be put in to fix and maintain it. Do not feel bad about this, it is just reality.
- Mechanics typically have to make a certain amount of money for their employer each week or month. This is standard practice. Understand that even the best most reputable mechanics are thus motivated (to meet targets to keep their jobs or to exceed targets to make more money, or to make commission to earn a living wage). Unless you do the work and diagnosis yourself, buyer beware.
- Try to isolate where the noise is coming from yourself today. Then bring the vehicle back to the mechanic and tell them that the issue is back, the same noise etc. See what they tell you. Express your concerns without insulting the mechanic that worked on it two weeks ago - just be matter of fact, "I don't have much more money to spend on this vehicle's repair, you tapped me out 2 weeks ago" - I just need it fixed/running well.
All I can say is > for someone having the sense to understand mechanics make mistakes and don't always get the problem fixed right the first time.
I used to have a system for finding a good mechanic. I would take my car in to get something simple fixed that I knew I could do myself. If they did a reasonable job, I figured I could trust them to do the same on stuff that was beyond me. Plus if you take your car in a few times like this, you'll get to know them a little and can assess their character.
Here's another idea. Mechanics out there, tell me if this is a good idea please! Loosen your gas cap a little and drive the car that way. The 'check engine' light should go on. Then tighten the cap, and take your car into the shop tell them your check engine light is on. They should check the code, and immediately tell you that your gas cap was loose. If they say anything else, thank them and RUN AWAY.
A final idea is to go to an auto parts store, tire shop, or some other entity that does not do the work you need done, and ask them to refer you to someone. There is a chain of tire shops in my area with impeccable rep, and I found my current shop by asking them to refer me to someone. Good people tend to associate with other good people.
A mechanic told me once that you should have trust in you shop to the point that you will leave them with your credit card, tell them to solve the problem and charge it to your card. If you can't do that, you shouldn't be going to that shop. I can do that w/ my current shop.
I used to have a system for finding a good mechanic. I would take my car in to get something simple fixed that I knew I could do myself. If they did a reasonable job, I figured I could trust them to do the same on stuff that was beyond me. Plus if you take your car in a few times like this, you'll get to know them a little and can assess their character.
Here's another idea. Mechanics out there, tell me if this is a good idea please! Loosen your gas cap a little and drive the car that way. The 'check engine' light should go on. Then tighten the cap, and take your car into the shop tell them your check engine light is on. They should check the code, and immediately tell you that your gas cap was loose. If they say anything else, thank them and RUN AWAY.
A final idea is to go to an auto parts store, tire shop, or some other entity that does not do the work you need done, and ask them to refer you to someone. There is a chain of tire shops in my area with impeccable rep, and I found my current shop by asking them to refer me to someone. Good people tend to associate with other good people.
A mechanic told me once that you should have trust in you shop to the point that you will leave them with your credit card, tell them to solve the problem and charge it to your card. If you can't do that, you shouldn't be going to that shop. I can do that w/ my current shop.
The problem is that it could be anything in the fuel system, and some might feel obligated to diagnose the system. A leak in the filler neck, or return line could set that same gas cap code. Hopefully, they would clear it and tell the customer to come back if it comes on again.
Could be a heat shield rattling. Does it occur at mid- to high-speed after the engine is warm? Or, does it happen when it's cold and ceases when the engine is warm?
Do you have a stick or automatic? Does it always occur when you or the transmission is shifting or does it occur at a steady low to mid-speed? What about steady, rather high RPMs on the highway?
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for someone having the sense to understand mechanics make mistakes and don't always get the problem fixed right the first time.
