Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
[quote=Dd714;2327508]I bet what some kids do, with these 4 cylinder auto's that couldn't spin the tires on an ice patch if need be, is attempt to "drop the clutch" on an auto. Bring the RPM up and put into drive from park...yeah, ummm, that will kill the tranny allright.
Yep, that's just the way I used to do it--when I was about 17. In a v8 automatic. I had to give up doing burnouts after I had to have the transmission replaced.
I bet what some kids do, with these 4 cylinder auto's that couldn't spin the tires on an ice patch if need be, is attempt to "drop the clutch" on an auto. Bring the RPM up and put into drive from park...yeah, ummm, that will kill the tranny allright.
Yep, that's just the way I used to do it--when I was about 17. In a v8 automatic. I had to give up doing burnouts after I had to have the transmission replaced.
hahaha, this is what you are SUPPOSED to do in an auto boys and girls - keep it in drive, press down on those brakes, then raise up the RPM until the point the brakes don't hold, then launch. Hey, to be honest, burnouts are just plain fun (I don't really get the "drifting" craze however). For added pleasure, pour some bleach on the rear wheels (assuming rear wheel drive) and watch the smoke.
The above is very effective with an aftermarket torque converter.
hahaha, this is what you are SUPPOSED to do in an auto boys and girls - keep it in drive, press down on those brakes, then raise up the RPM until the point the brakes don't hold, then launch. Hey, to be honest, burnouts are just plain fun (I don't really get the "drifting" craze however). For added pleasure, pour some bleach on the rear wheels (assuming rear wheel drive) and watch the smoke.
The above is very effective with an aftermarket torque converter.
What you described is a powerbrake burnout, which is hard on the transmission.
There is also the type of burnout in which you release the brake from a stop and floor it (like in the photo below). I've never had a transmission failure when doing this type of burnout, but then again the transmissions in my cars are very good ones (G.M. Turbo-hyrdamatic 400 and Mopar Torqueflite).
What you described is a powerbrake burnout, which is hard on the transmission.
Well no not really in relation to all other powertrain components. Torque can kill a transmission but as some one pointed out what kills transmission is usually heat - caused by towing, lugging the engine, "dropping the clutch" and other bad behavior. Actually, bringing the RPM's above the stall speed (low on a street car) locks the converter in place and causes less heat and stress on the tranny.
As I said, I've seen lots of things break at the dragstrip, where burnouts to clean the tires are typical of course. Transmission's aren't one of them. Burnouts and hard launches will find the weakest link in your setup - usually U-joints or the rear end gears (differential) before the tranny. Actually burnouts are more foregiving on componenets vs. the hard launches. What scares me as well as delights me is when I get a well prepped track and those tires grip. I love sub 2 second 60 foot times on street tires but I am just waiting for a halfshaft to go flying off.
I have a 700R4, not usually known for strength, reinforced with kevlar bands, special servo's, a shift kit, high stall torque converter, etc. I can launch at 4,000 RPM (although I would just go up in smoke) and drive home on the highway using the overdrive gears.
I speak from experience...
I had the transmission rebuilt in my '66 Dart GT (too many power brake burnouts).
I didn't do powerbrake burnouts from when I first owned the car in 1979 until about 1989... no problems with the trans. After about 6-12 months of doing (occassional) powerbrake burnouts, it started slipping.
You're right... heat is what kills a trans, and more heat is generated by doing powerbrake burnouts than by the type of burnouts without holding the brake.
If you want to really do some nice burnouts without putting too much strain on the car, get a line lock. You can get them as cheap as $40 thru Summit. All it is, is an electrical solenoid that connects inline the front brake system between the master cylinder and the proportioning/combination valve.
Then all you have to do is apply brake, turn on the line lock, let off of the brake, now your rear wheels are free to spin while the fronts are locked....you can go thru all 3 gears and still be roasting them, your brake shoes don't get toasted, and your engine can put max potential to the drive tire(s) without any brakes putting strain on the engine.
Then when done you turn off the line lock and take off. Just try not to let the car hook because that has a tendency to put strain on u joints and sprags, otherwise doing it as I mentioned isn't much different than when you stab the pedal from a dead stop while sitting on a patch of water.
And yes heat is the #1 killer of automatic trannies. That's why an auxiliary trans cooler should be mandatory on ANY automatic tranny, the radiator ones aren't really enough. A deep finned tranny pan also helps dissipate heat. And a shift kit helps eliminate heat by shift overlap by reducing clutch slip.
And yes having a torque monster engine such as a 472 Caddy will reduce a set of tires to nothing very quickly. That's called torque.
If you want to really do some nice burnouts without putting too much strain on the car, get a line lock. You can get them as cheap as $40 thru Summit. All it is, is an electrical solenoid that connects inline the front brake system between the master cylinder and the proportioning/combination valve.
Then all you have to do is apply brake, turn on the line lock, let off of the brake, now your rear wheels are free to spin while the fronts are locked....you can go thru all 3 gears and still be roasting them, your brake shoes don't get toasted, and your engine can put max potential to the drive tire(s) without any brakes putting strain on the engine.
Then when done you turn off the line lock and take off. Just try not to let the car hook because that has a tendency to put strain on u joints and sprags, otherwise doing it as I mentioned isn't much different than when you stab the pedal from a dead stop while sitting on a patch of water.
And yes heat is the #1 killer of automatic trannies. That's why an auxiliary trans cooler should be mandatory on ANY automatic tranny, the radiator ones aren't really enough. A deep finned tranny pan also helps dissipate heat. And a shift kit helps eliminate heat by shift overlap by reducing clutch slip.
And yes having a torque monster engine such as a 472 Caddy will reduce a set of tires to nothing very quickly. That's called torque.
Yep, a line lock is the best. I've had 2 cars with line locks and they really help with burnouts and no need to brake-torque the car.
The car was going around a corner and is aided by ultra-skinny tires. I wont mention also that the car is also going uphill and is doing the "one wheel wonder" burnout. Thats pretty much the only way we could get my buddies' old Caddy to smoke the tires too.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
.
