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Am just about to pull the trigger on a 2015 BMW X3. MSRP of 52225. Walking out the door at 50229. They gave me a $1000 coupon which was really worthless as I priced the car at the same at 2 other dealers without it.
In Texas, we have D&M auto leasing that is an independant leasing company that will lease any car. They do sell, or even lease again, off lease vehicles. I just looked and they have over 200 vehicles in inventory right now. Just another option to consider. They are salespeople, so it would be best to know the product before talking to them. I called for a quote on a particular car, and they called me for several weeks until I told them I had already bought something else. Their lease rate was competative though with the dealer's rates.
CPO cars do usually have a good warranty, and they are the only ones that keep the Kia/Hyundai 10yr/100K mile warranty. Used Kia/Hyundais only have a 5/60 warranty if not CPO. 3 of the last 4 used cars I've bought were CPO cars, and we had no problems with them, but appreciated the extra warranty coverage beyond the regular 3/36 B2B warranty and powertrain warranty, which does transfer until it expires.
My previous car was totaled for a total loss ( got rear ended )
...For now I have a rental car paying out of my own pocket , while I'm deciding...
What! You got rear-ended, and are paying for a rental out of your own pocket??? In California, whenever a car is rear-ended, it is always the fault of the vehicle that hit you. Why is their insurance company not paying your rental?
Quote:
Originally Posted by isles20
Here is what you do. If you can, get an off lease used car. You can save a crap load of money that way, and get twice the car for the same money. Those prices are firm though. Next would be CPO, which have a new car warranty equivalent. I would look at Euro cars with that; they have the best CPO programs...
This is what I did with my current car. I purchased a Lexus RX400H, (luxury hybrid AWD SUV), from the dealership that was a lease return. The car had just a tick under 60k on the odometer and came with a Certified Pre-Owned warranty that was good to 100k, (I did have to have some warranty work done on the vehicle). The car now has 160k and runs just fine. The rotors need to be turned, but other than routine maintenance, the car has been perfect! Only cost $26k, about half price from when brand new.
Am just about to pull the trigger on a 2015 BMW X3. MSRP of 52225. Walking out the door at 50229. They gave me a $1000 coupon which was really worthless as I priced the car at the same at 2 other dealers without it.
If you really NEED new go ahead, but try to look around for something used, or off lease. You won't go through the worst of depreciation, if you have a loan the payments are lower, the engine is broken in, and no one will notice.
What! You got rear-ended, and are paying for a rental out of your own pocket??? In California, whenever a car is rear-ended, it is always the fault of the vehicle that hit you. Why is their insurance company not paying your rental?
This is what I did with my current car. I purchased a Lexus RX400H, (luxury hybrid AWD SUV), from the dealership that was a lease return. The car had just a tick under 60k on the odometer and came with a Certified Pre-Owned warranty that was good to 100k, (I did have to have some warranty work done on the vehicle). The car now has 160k and runs just fine. The rotors need to be turned, but other than routine maintenance, the car has been perfect! Only cost $26k, about half price from when brand new.
I was told that for them to pay I would of had to had the repairs done through them ,I just wanted to deal with my company ,and also I was going out of town anyways so I didn't bother with it . When I came back everything was pretty much settled , the car was released and I got the check ,
Sounds like a good deal on your Lexus and that warranty would give one peace of mind .
I am going to look at the CPOs more .
I was looking up lease returns too , but a lot seemed to be out of state , guess I'll have to dig a bit more .
My previous car was totaled for a total loss ( got rear ended )
My payout on car was about 14k so it would be nice to get into something around that price that might be newer or with low miles .
Former car was a 2010 Kia forte and had 67,000 miles
OP, you received $14K for a 5 yr old Kia Forte with 67k miles? Which insurance company did the person who ran into you use? Did that include any money for pain and suffering or was that just for the vehicle? Sounds like a very generous payout....
I second what everyone else has said in the thread - used Honda/Toyota, you are better off buying new as they don't depreciate. Look for a 3 yr old used domestic (if you want to shop newer used cars). I'd look for a 7 yr old vehicle with 70-80K and bank the rest.
It was for the car , it was the SX model which is more expensive than the other ones ,but granted it was a decent payout I guess .
I had AAA and they had MetLife .
They are lucky though that I didn't sue , maybe I'd be shopping for a Benz now ...actually was just looking at the CPO Mercedes out of curiosity I could prob get an 2009 for around 20k .
But I'm that interested in that .
I am thinking along the lines of getting an older car like you said .
rebates and cash back programs are all nice incentives but they are not negotiable. When I sold cars at a GM dealership we would often have rebates in the thousands. There were some vehicles like a Denali which was $50,000 and up, between the GM rebates and dealer discounts we were taking off $8000- $12,000 ! It was crazy but that was GM back in the day.
Toyota on the other hand when they did have rebates they would be for something like $500 with maybe a similar discount from the dealer.
Toyota does seem to hold their values better than most so buying a new one won't be much different in price to buying one a few years old.
If you are looking at Toyota also consider Scion. They have some fun cars.
If you are fine with driving "yester year" car, you can get 2014s for a very good price. Do not buy a Toyota or Honda used, I find that they do not depreciate fast enough to be a value used, especially with current state of used car market. With 2015 Camry due to be out soon 2014.5 Camry should have great manufacturing incentives. I suspect buying a new Camry now is cheaper than buy 1 or 2 year old Camry. Plug in your zip code below and look at local incentives offered.
I disagree. I recently purchased a 2006 Toyota RAV4 from Carmax with the uncommon V6 for just under Kelley Blue Book. I love the car. It has everything I wanted in a vehicle: low miles for a 2006 (70K, black, powerful engine, the SUV I need for hauling, good sound system, few blind spots, and great mechanical condition. I would suggest OP looks for one or two year old Toyota or Nissans at the dealership in his/her area. Unless OP plans on keeping the car 10 years or more, new cars aren't worth the extra price, IMO.
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