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Old 11-25-2014, 09:32 AM
 
2,925 posts, read 3,335,325 times
Reputation: 3572

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LOL. Do they actually remove the heads to clean the intake valves? No, they use a cleaner like BG44K and run it into the intake. If you use good gas like Chevron and get regular highway miles, you shouldn't need this. Even if you use cheap gas, a bottle of fuel system cleaner every couple of months should be fine. However, it the manufacturer recommends it, then get it done. 18,500 miles seems a little soon though.

Air filters are easy to do. It' will take about ten minutes to do both, depending on how easy it is to get to the cabin filter.

Brake fluid exchange? Look at the fluid in the master cylinder. If it clear or a light honey color, it's fine. If it is dark brown then get it exchanged, but on a car that's only a couple of years old I doubt it needs it now.

I found a maint schedule for 2012 Infinitis and it looks like they are going off the More Severe schedule. How are your driving habits? Would you say they were severe?
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:00 AM
 
Location: Plano, TX
397 posts, read 1,384,157 times
Reputation: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by st33lcas3 View Post
LOL. Do they actually remove the heads to clean the intake valves? No, they use a cleaner like BG44K and run it into the intake. If you use good gas like Chevron and get regular highway miles, you shouldn't need this. Even if you use cheap gas, a bottle of fuel system cleaner every couple of months should be fine. However, it the manufacturer recommends it, then get it done. 18,500 miles seems a little soon though.

Air filters are easy to do. It' will take about ten minutes to do both, depending on how easy it is to get to the cabin filter.

Brake fluid exchange? Look at the fluid in the master cylinder. If it clear or a light honey color, it's fine. If it is dark brown then get it exchanged, but on a car that's only a couple of years old I doubt it needs it now.

I found a maint schedule for 2012 Infinitis and it looks like they are going off the More Severe schedule. How are your driving habits? Would you say they were severe?
that is what is a little debatable. My commute is about 9 miles, and we live in texas so we don't deal with a lot of freezing temperatures. at least not too terribly often. I do short trips mostly on the weekends to grocery store and other errands.
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:12 AM
 
Location: NWA/SWMO
2,747 posts, read 2,611,020 times
Reputation: 2654
Quote:
Originally Posted by stargirl007 View Post
I took my car to the dealership to have an oil change done prior to driving home for the holidays. I drive a 2012 Infiniti EX35.

$40 oil change and the dealer recommended over $600 worth of maintenance that they claimed my car absolutely needed. I am not smart with cars, but I had them hold off on it. I wanted to do some research because I feel that a lot of the services are extremely overpriced for what they are. My fiance also has handled some of the maintenance aspects of my car thus far and I'd like to put my trust in what he has helped me with, but the dealer says it is HURTING my car?? (!!)

My car has 18,500 miles and is mostly all city driving to and from work.

They recommended the following

1. Air induction service

Our trained technicians start by disassembling the air intake system. They then clean the

throttle body housing, intake and plate, plenum and air-intake, and intake valves and

ports. Finally, they remove any combustion chamber deposits. This ensures a correct

balance of fuel and air in the system. They wipe things out with a rag and run Seafoam through it, basically. Screw that. No. NO.

2. Air filter replacement -- We replaced the air filters at 15K with aftermarket. The dealer is claiming that they are letting in unfiltered air since we did not use the OEM filters and want to change them out. We are using FRAM filters for reference. FRAM sucks IMO. I prefer AC Delco, or OEM. However, as long as you are using a paper or fiber element filter, it's all more or less the same. It's those foam and oiled filters that cause issues.

Operation Description:

Remove the air filter element from the air filter housing. Clean the air filter housing and

inspect the fresh air duct hose for damage, dirt, or obstructions. Inspect the warm air

intake hose for signs of deterioration. Install a new filter element, and then reinstall the

air filter housing access panel. Common sense, blah blah blah, they swap filters. You can handle that yourself.

3. Cabin filter replacement -- we understand this one. We have an aftermarket air filter that we purchased for this. But should we have the dealer do the work instead?

Operation Description:

Access the cabin or pollen filter according to the vehicle manufacturer’s service

information. This usually involves opening the glove box and removing the bolt to lower

the door. Remove the old cabin air filter from its housing. Replace with new cabin air

filter. Replace the bolt to attach the glove box door. Close the glove box door. Clean the

housing of all dust and debris. Install the new pollen filter into its housing. Yeah, it may be annoying, but it's 15 minutes max of your time and a few simple tools.

4. Break fluid exchange service - I'm confused on why we need this. Do we need to try and do this? I'm confused because in the descriptions it says this needs to be done every 30-40K Miles. I am no where near that.

Operation Description:

One of our skilled technicians will check the condition of your vehicle’s brake fluid and,

if necessary, remove contaminated fluid from the brake lines and master cylinder,

replace the old fluid with appropriate brake fluid. The entire brake system will be

inspected for leaks, master cylinder corrosion, worn pneumatic parts, harmful varnish

build-up, broken or rusted bleeder valves, worn rotors and drums, and air in the brake

lines. Yeah, this one sounds like BS but it isn't. Brake fluid is hydroscopic. This means that it sucks water out of the air. It most certainly can *********r junk up. Is it time? Well, it depends on how humid it is where you live. Technically you should do it every 2 years on a street driven car. For track cars, I believe your tech sheet has to have it signed off either every 3 months, or every year. I forget, but it's no joke. Aside from corrosion, the water in the brake line can lower the boiling temp of the fluid enough to kill braking ability (typically not seen except on the track, but...). Anyway, $120 doesn't sound too harsh. I did my G20 myself when I did the brakes on it. Shot out chocolate milk. I was stunned. Brakes firmer than ever. Same story on my 2010 Jeep. When they changed brake rotors on it for me at the dealer, I did not see what happened, but to retract the pistons enough to do the job, they had to have bled the system SOME, and the brakes are much firmer now. Yeah, this is one that you should do or get done, and actually are likely to feel in your right foot.

total pricing

1. cabin microfilter replacement -- $120 Yes, based on miles/age, but thats $$$. Do it yourself.
2. brake fluid exchange -- $130: Yes, based on age.
3. air induction service -- $190 I'd say not.
4. air filter replacement - $70 Yes, or you can do it yourself for 1/3 of that.
5. tire rotation - $80 You should have this done every or every other oil-change. They charge me $20 for my Jeep. WTF, Lexus!? That's too much "brand premium" for a Lexus. Their most expensive car isn't even $100K not counting the LFA, is it? Seriously? Someone's pretending...screw that. Get someone else to do it, but yeah, it should be done.


The real question is -- what services do we REALLY need? I am not a car person, but I want to take care of the car to drive for at least 6-8 more years.
answers and comments in red.

-I have owned half a dozen vehicles and worked on them myself many a time. They range from several decades old to new on the lot when I bought them. My responses are based on personal experiences seeing said systems (brake fluid that looks like chocolate milk on my 2002 G20 when we bled the system in 2013.) etc.

-I also used to work in sales for a Ford dealer.
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Old 11-25-2014, 11:21 AM
 
Location: Vermont
5,439 posts, read 14,324,626 times
Reputation: 2609
are you over your factory warranty in 2-3 years?
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:00 PM
 
Location: Plano, TX
397 posts, read 1,384,157 times
Reputation: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe moving View Post
are you over your factory warranty in 2-3 years?
Yep - basic warranty is 48 mos / 48k miles -- I'm assuming by my driving habits I will hit the 48 mos first. Car was purchased in Oct. 2012.
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:53 PM
 
Location: Alexandria
142 posts, read 552,583 times
Reputation: 153
Quote:
Originally Posted by kreeyax View Post
Seriously? How many have the equipment to rotate their tires at home? Wouldn't that involve buying a floor jack, jack stands, torque wrench, etc..? Don't most people just let Discount Tire rotate them for free?
Unless the previous owner or the OP has removed the jack kit which comes with the EX, yes, it can be done at home. Also, neither a jack stand nor a torque wrench are necessary.
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:42 PM
 
783 posts, read 558,768 times
Reputation: 1141
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmoua1 View Post
Also, neither a jack stand nor a torque wrench are necessary.

Noooooo, Not True - Lug nuts on alloy wheels should be torqued by hand with a torque wrench. They should also be retorqued after 2 or 3 days or a hundred or so miles.
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:51 PM
 
Location: Alexandria
142 posts, read 552,583 times
Reputation: 153
Use of a torque wrench is ideal. If the OP doesn't have one, it's not the end of the world.
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:08 PM
 
675 posts, read 1,214,949 times
Reputation: 803
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmoua1 View Post
Unless the previous owner or the OP has removed the jack kit which comes with the EX, yes, it can be done at home. Also, neither a jack stand nor a torque wrench are necessary.
How would you get opposite corners of the car in the air for tire rotation without a second jack or jack stands? Also, and I certainly do not known about the EX specifically, but many spare tire jacks don't have typical flat tops, so jack locations are difficult, limited, sometime to cut-out areas near a single wheel, and getting even two wheels off the ground at once is very hard. I guess it's possible to do some sort of musical chairs if you can get two wheels up to get all 4 rotated in a "normal" fashion".

And yes, it is definitely possible to do without a torque wrench, but it is not the right way to do it. Plenty of people have changed plenty of wheels without a torque wrench without issues, so I don't want to overstate the importance. However, similarly, plenty of people blow right pass the recommended oil change interval without issues. But in both cases, issues are more likely if you don't follow the recommend procedure.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:50 PM
 
Location: Heart of Dixie
12,448 posts, read 10,126,539 times
Reputation: 28069
Winter is coming - don't forget to change the air in your tires .
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