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Old 12-07-2014, 08:12 PM
 
Location: Eastern Iowa
128 posts, read 419,277 times
Reputation: 189

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Quote:
Originally Posted by draketrutta View Post
He probably read about Fram oil filter problems on the interwebs.

I've been using Fram filters for decades, never had a problem with them.

Remember, the www content is 99%BS, including the posters on this website.

Personal experience has shown me to never ever use a Fram filter again. It was not my motor, but my buddy had a very costly rebuild done to his stock car engine after the bypass valve in a Fram filter malfunctioned. Believe what you want, I personally use nothing but Wix filters on my stuff, even my John Deere rider. As someone else said you can learn a lot about oil filters on the web. Somewhere I ran across a guy's page where he dissected all brands of filters to check out the filter media, showed how much, or in some cases now little filter media was actually in some well known filters. I've been around a few automotive machine shops in my day, not one ever recommended to use a Fram filter.
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Old 12-09-2014, 11:23 AM
 
Location: Huntsville
5,329 posts, read 3,594,211 times
Reputation: 6007
Quote:
Originally Posted by don1945 View Post
I've seen them cut open and they are cardboard inside that has the potential to collapse. Google Fram filter failures and you will see tons of negative reports on them. When I buy an oil change special and it includes a Fram filter I ask the parts guy if I can swap it out for another brand.

Don
I've seen these Fram filters collapse in person and it isn't pretty. On big rigs Baldwins were prone to doing this years ago. That's a disaster when it happens and makes a nice mess all over the shop floor. I would put a Fram on in a tight but only long enough to drive to the part store to get a better brand.
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Old 12-09-2014, 11:31 AM
 
4,429 posts, read 3,107,380 times
Reputation: 5262
We're talking about the basic FRAM filters right?

I know their Tough Guard or Premium ones are a lot better.
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Old 12-09-2014, 01:41 PM
 
Location: Happyville, North Carolina
2,371 posts, read 2,022,474 times
Reputation: 3528
Have a look at this. Might answer some questions. Oil Filter comparison.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7R-I
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:45 PM
 
Location: Texas
5,586 posts, read 11,843,095 times
Reputation: 10545
So none of you oil gurus ever noted that the oils that PQIA turned down is rated at SA and SB API.....or do you even have a clue what that is? Let me give ya a clue. The SA rated oils have been obsolete since 1930. It's nothing but base oil in the bottle. No additives, nothing. It's not even fit for your lawn mower. Put it in a modern engine and it will self destruct in a few thousand miles. THe SB rated oils have some detergents in the mix but that's it. It became obsolete in 1951 when ZDDP or zinc as most like to call it, was included as a cheap multi use additive. It works as a friction modifier, detergent, corrosion inhibitor, and an antioxidant. Zinc has not been removed from motor oils, only reduced. ILSAC, who is the governing body that says what is allowable in the motor oils we buy, says the current limits will not destroy the emissions system. The limit is 8 and 600 ppms. Do you know what 8 and 600 is? Zinc is NOT required for a flat tappet engine. Many aircraft engines are flat tappet and Zinc is NOT allowed in the formulation. The issue is the cheap parts some suppliers want to push off on the low knowledge buyer. The fix is the inclusion of moly in the metallurgy but it's a lot cheaper to blame it off on the oil and not stand behind their cheap crap parts. All states should follow NJ lead in stopping the sale of these obsolete oils. The convinience store guy buys it for about 50 cents and sells it for 4-5 bucks. He makes a killing while killing your engine if you're not very smart and buy this crap. That's why it''s extremely critical to look for the API Starburst and any classification forward of SL. The current rating is SN. None of the oils in the PQIA have any GF rating. Anybody have a clue what GF rating is? It came in as a requirement in 1990. Clue: the current GF rating is GF-5.... yes, you can Google it.
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Old 12-10-2014, 05:56 AM
 
9,074 posts, read 5,659,334 times
Reputation: 5256
Quote:
Originally Posted by IShootNikon View Post
We're talking about the basic FRAM filters right?

I know their Tough Guard or Premium ones are a lot better.
This is true, I also think the HP (?) ones were better. Still won't use them though.
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Old 12-14-2014, 12:24 PM
 
Location: The Help Desk
255 posts, read 505,277 times
Reputation: 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by don1945 View Post
I've seen them cut open and they are cardboard inside that has the potential to collapse. Google Fram filter failures and you will see tons of negative reports on them. When I buy an oil change special and it includes a Fram filter I ask the parts guy if I can swap it out for another brand.

Don

I had two Fram filters BACK TO BACK with faulty flow-back valves. I was done in the 90's with that brand.
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Old 12-14-2014, 12:28 PM
 
Location: The Help Desk
255 posts, read 505,277 times
Reputation: 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapperL View Post
Zinc is NOT required for a flat tappet engine..

Anybody taking you bulletin board education on motor oils as fact is asking for it.
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:15 PM
 
1,699 posts, read 1,710,216 times
Reputation: 4000
I like Valvoline oil and WIX filters.
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:36 PM
 
Location: Texas
5,586 posts, read 11,843,095 times
Reputation: 10545
Quote:
Anybody taking you bulletin board education on motor oils as fact is asking for it
Then you explain why airplane gas engines are flat tappet engines but zinc is not allowed in the formulation...............yeah, you don't have a clue, do you?
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