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No but it is physics.
You seem like someone who likes to do this sort of thing. Do yourself a favor and learn how to do it correctly. You and whoever you do things for will appreciate it.
The chance of actually ending up with the exact proper charge using the "tap-a-can" method is very slim. Sometimes the kit has a suction gauge but this does little to ensure correct charge due to multiple variables.
Putting the system on an AC machine to be evacuated and the recovered refrigerant weighed will determine if low refrigerant is even what is wrong with the system. The vacuum process will perform a basic test for a gross leak and remove any moisture that has intruded, then recharging to factory specified weight of refrigerant using the machine is the last step.
Anything less than this and if you are lucky the AC may work half-ass, but almost certainly not optimally because it won't have the correct charge.
We see them still essentially empty, or we see them grossly overcharged greatly stressing the compressor, cooling system and everything else.
I have a truck which blows warm start of every summer compressor shaft seal leaks. I top it off with a lb or so I measure it with my AC scale and a 30lb tank I use. I just don't want to bother with fixing it we aren't going to keep the truck anyway. It blows about 40 degrees for all summer long. The compressor makes some noise so probably needs to be replaced ill just sell it let the buyer know. If you don't know how to work on your AC other then adding a can I would just take it to a shop unless your willing to learn. Lots of information online I learned how to rebuild a automatic transmission just from online information.
The chance of actually ending up with the exact proper charge using the "tap-a-can" method is very slim. Sometimes the kit has a suction gauge but this does little to ensure correct charge due to multiple variables.
Putting the system on an AC machine to be evacuated and the recovered refrigerant weighed will determine if low refrigerant is even what is wrong with the system. The vacuum process will perform a basic test for a gross leak and remove any moisture that has intruded, then recharging to factory specified weight of refrigerant using the machine is the last step.
Anything less than this and if you are lucky the AC may work half-ass, but almost certainly not optimally because it won't have the correct charge.
We see them still essentially empty, or we see them grossly overcharged greatly stressing the compressor, cooling system and everything else.
Don in Austin
An automotive system is not a cap tube refrigerator and dosent require a specific charge to operate properly. The Nameplate charge is the Calculated minimum charge that will allow the A/C to operate between 50F and 125F. It is a EPA required calculated minimum charge. It makes it easy for the tech but it is not absolutely necessary. Depending on the vehicle the nameplate charge can be any where between 12 and 120 oz.
The vast majority or auto A/C systems that operate poorly are because of people putting either dye or stop leak or improper or too much oil in them instead of spending a little time to find the real leak or the correct oil.
Of course it is best to do it the right way. But there is absolutely nothing wrong with throwing a can of 134 into the system to see if it works or has a major leak.
You are much better knowing what you need before going out to get something fixed than going completely unprepared.
Even happens to me. Last year I was out of town and my wifes A/C stopped working in her jeep.
She took it into the local garage and they told her she needed a new compressor. $1300. SHe decided to wait for me to come home and it was nothing more than a cracked plug on the electrical harness to the clutch. $6.00 for the part and 30 minutes to fix. And of course the $75 minimum to the shop.
I used to have a shop that rebuilt compressors. Did many thousands of Auto A/C compressors.
The vast majority of the compressors had nothing wrong with them. Probably 65% or so. 25% had bad clutches and only about 10% were actually broke. Of that 10% , about 10% had oil issues( mainly burnt or melted center balls and gear sets), 30% had Valve plate issues. (Mainly clogged up with stop leak), and the rst had some sort of mechanical failure.
My point is that it is difficult to break a auto A/C compressor. Most are not broken when replaced.
The vast majority of the ones that were actually broken were broke by the guy working on them.
Yes it will pull it in. As long as you are filling the LP side and it's before the dryer you're fine. Turn the can upside down and raise it above and the refrigerant will flow in. You *might* have to jump the LP switch but most likely not.
Don't worry about adding the oil mix, as long as you don't replace a component it hasn't leaked out in significant quantities to be of consequence.
Turning a can upside down will sometimes introduce liquid refrigerant directly into the section port of the compressor. This can damage some compressors.
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