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Old 02-15-2009, 08:57 PM
 
Location: Northeast Tennessee
7,303 posts, read 22,732,022 times
Reputation: 5463

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Those Camrys were super cars of that era, but were notorious for oil leaks. I had four of these cars (three 1987s and a 1993). The 1993 was the newer style than the 87s, and it was a V6. I only had ONE oil leak on ONE of the 87s. The others were fine. I hear of alot of leaks on the 1992-96s with the 2.2L 4-cylinders. I dont recall if these were the same engines as the 87-91s or not? I recall they (the engines) look alot alike. My aunt has a 1993 Camry LE with the 4-cylinder. She has had alot of oil leak issues, even after having both oil seals replaced. Obviously the shop was not repairing it right. Now it has been setting on the lawn for 2 years and she has a new Yukon now.
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:47 AM
 
25,800 posts, read 49,685,561 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennesseestorm View Post
Those Camrys were super cars of that era, but were notorious for oil leaks. I had four of these cars (three 1987s and a 1993). The 1993 was the newer style than the 87s, and it was a V6. I only had ONE oil leak on ONE of the 87s. The others were fine. I hear of alot of leaks on the 1992-96s with the 2.2L 4-cylinders. I dont recall if these were the same engines as the 87-91s or not? I recall they (the engines) look alot alike. My aunt has a 1993 Camry LE with the 4-cylinder. She has had alot of oil leak issues, even after having both oil seals replaced. Obviously the shop was not repairing it right. Now it has been setting on the lawn for 2 years and she has a new Yukon now.
I replaced the front crankshaft oil seal about every 20,000 miles on Mom's Toyota from that vintage once she hit 60k...

That oil seal was the only problem she had with the car. The seal/gasket set was under $10 and took me about an hour to R/R.
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:43 AM
 
Location: Putney VT
58 posts, read 290,726 times
Reputation: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by censusdata View Post
I just had the valve covers replaced. I took it to my family mechanic and he said said it has a leak near the timing belt. He needs me to have the engine cleaned so he can find exactly where it is and fill it. He wants to have a month to fix it

I just wondered if those products would help in the meantime

A month? Find another shop. This is a shop owner warning you.
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:02 AM
 
1 posts, read 15,491 times
Reputation: 12
do oil leaks create a problem to the bottom of car (leaks half quart every 500 miles) ?
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Old 03-24-2010, 06:42 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,388 posts, read 42,701,155 times
Reputation: 11465
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlExYgAbY View Post
do oil leaks create a problem to the bottom of car (leaks half quart every 500 miles) ?
Depends on what the oil is getting on. It does not do any good to suspension bushings. At the same time it does provide some crude rust protection.

If a car leaks a quart every 1000, or more accurately probably it burns and leaks a quart every 1000 - it may or may not be worth fixing, depending on what the oil is getting on, your future plans for the car, how hard the specific leak is to fix.

You could try the "green jug" Castrol high-mileage oil in whatever viscosity your car needs (check owner's manual), I have found it sometimes materially reduces oil leaks from gaskets and particularly from seals. Of course it depends on what is actually causing the leak - if a seal is cracked or torn, or if a gasket has a crack all the way through it, nothing short of replacing the faulty seal is going to stop the leak entirely.

But the Castrol high-mileage oil does not cost much more than the cheapest oils, and it sometimes works...why not give it a try?

I generally prefer to buy an oil that already has whatever additives I want blended in as part of a balanced package rather than use additives myself. That said many SM oils don't have much extreme pressure additives, so adding some ZDDP like Eastwood sells may make some sense for older cars. Note that I did NOT say this is a definite need, or that it does not have any downside (beyond the cost of the ZDDP additive, which they don't exactly give away) since extreme pressure additives compete with detergent additives on the lubricated surfaces.

That said in my mis-spent youth I tried various "snake oils" for various issues, sometimes the issue was improved, other times not, but I didn't suffer any lubrication failures either.

Maybe this is too much information. Well when you ask a question like this of a car geek and an oil geek, that's what you get.
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Old 03-24-2010, 06:58 PM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,362,274 times
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A month is way too long 4 days maybe less any wait for parts... The only leak sealer i found any good was Lucas oil additive to the oil. It has a higher viscosity and surface tention bridges gaps at seals to steel shafts.

I have seen other so called bottle fixes work for a while that soften and swell seals, but when these seals leak again it is massive, and the seals are gone.

Mitch has the best advice, which is typical for him, in part to check the engine breather isn't clogged. These breathers breath both ways in and out, and must breath all the time freely. When they are clogged up oil will blow out of most seals. That internal pressure has to go somewhere.
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Old 03-24-2010, 07:11 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,388 posts, read 42,701,155 times
Reputation: 11465
I imagine the guy who wants a month to fix the oil leak is a part time mechanic, I have milked a head gasket change on my Scirocco for most of a month...sad but true. When you have other stuff going on, and want to do work of the highest level of craftsmanship, and have other cars available to drive, and things are hopping at work - it happens.

Good point Mac, in pointing out the better advice I gave earlier - do check that the PCV system, whatever it is on your car, is working. Most cars newer than about 1963 will hold at least a partial vacuum on the crankcase, which you can feel by unscrewing the oil fill, you should feel the vacuum holding it in place. Beware of rotating parts and don't be wearing your best shirt when you do this though!
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:20 AM
 
Location: east yorkshire
1 posts, read 14,684 times
Reputation: 11
i myself firs though that it would not fix oil seals,however after 100 miles approx it fixed a leak in my front and rear crank seals in a combo van,i was well imressed as it lasted months before i sold it,after that i dont know,i now have a bmw ti with front crank seal leaking,garage checked it to be the fault,i again put stp oil stop leak in the car,fault fixed,no drips at all,i must admit that ive used other products that did nothing at all,stp states on the bottle to leave it in for 200 miles befor it will stop the leaks,but it seems to work faster.ive nothing to gain by telling lies,it works for me with stp and the wynns products
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:39 AM
 
Location: Central Jersey - Florida
3,314 posts, read 12,255,762 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steel7 View Post
My 91 tbird leaks 1 qt of oil every 500 miles.Its a major oil seal & oil stop leak is worthless.It would cost me approx $500.00 to fix the oil leak.I just add a qt of supertech oil ( 10-40) every 500 miles.Its made by quaker state & sold at walmart for around $2.00 a qt.

I avg less than 1000 miles a month driving so its worth spending 4 bucks a month on oil.Stop oil leak is only temporary & will cause damage to your engine.I have 136,000 miles on my 18 yr old car.No major engine work done far ( "crosses fingers ").
I get my oil & filters at Walmart (Motorcraft Semi Synthethic oil & Motorcraft filters). They have the best price. I always wondered about their Supertech oil. I use it in my lawn mower, snow blower, etc. Do you know for a fact that it's made by Quaker State, and if so is it a particular blend made exclusively for Walmart? I would be interested to know.
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Old 01-07-2011, 11:23 AM
 
19,122 posts, read 21,362,274 times
Reputation: 7313
Mitch I just had my start motor act up a couple weeks back. In the working combined with a valve cover gasket which was leaking, I cleaned out the breather system because I was there. This old beater 85 volvo has other oil leaks too, but it's gonna take a need for a new clutch to get me to go there

Since then the over drive has decided to act up too, so I might go there while 'I'm at it'.

That start motor pulled a stunt I never saw before. One of the bakealite brush holder insulators took a bend, and with enough force to move the metalic brush holder off a pressed hanging chad a metal tab in a slot which holds the brush holder hard up at 90 degrees to the armature.

Wear on the brush itself proved beyond any reasonable doubt the brust had been at apx 45 degress to the armature a pretty long time. It was cold, the work was mean, but it didn't cost more than time to fix. With a dull screw driver I bent that tab in a little bit more, and for grins bent the other 3 in a little bit more too. Cleaning out old lube and installing new sure won't hurt that motor, It works as good as new now.

COncerning the breather, The old ratty hose was dead, all baked out hard and mean stiff and nasty. I created a new one of tubing and cut it in the center of the valve cover, fitting in 2 inches of stainless pipe to the ID of the hose. This way I can open the hose to change vc gaskets instead of be forced to get at that impossible fire trap the 1985 B21 Ft engine has.

The bad part is I will have to make a point of cleaning that out from time to time anyway. It should be good til next Fall anyway.

Oh LOL helping a mc buddy out I found he removed his engine breather and capped it off. Lucky for him he didn't run the engine since. (Winter and he was bord, so went to cleaning up hoses wires and etc.) Come Spring and every seal blown to bits for doing that sure would have been messy. He took that breather for a vac line.
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