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use the best oil you can afford. i have used penzzoil, castrol, valvoline, mobile one, among other name brands, and found that they are all pretty good oils for most vehicles, even ones that see track time as well as street time. as long as the oil meets or exceeds manufacturers specs, then you are good to go.
the real key here is how often you are changing this oil. since you are seeing track time with this engine, you want to be changing this oil more often than is recommended, on the order of every 2-3000 miles AT MOST.
Yeah. Changing after 2 track days and about 2000 miles.
Sorry, wrong answer. M1 hasn't been PAO since Katrina when Mobil lost all of their PAO refinery plants. It's been a gp III since and a very small splash of a high VI PAO. There are NO 100% PAO base motor oils on the market as the ethylene gas used to make it is getting hard to find and far too expensive to use as a disposable product.
Hydrocracked (Syntec, Valvoline)
Close, but no cigar. It is a severely hydrocracked crud feedstock. There is a major difference.
Finally regular dyno oils
There are none as such any more. Since the advertising council sided with Castrol about Gp III basestocks are a synthetic based oil, any base oil that does not appear in nature is now a synthetic. That means any motor oil made with anything other than a Gp I base oil is a synthetic oil. Yes, many of the synthetic oils you're buying today that are marketed as a synthetic are yesterdays conventionals.
So what is the best? It always comes up and usually ends in finger pointing. If you own a specific brand of car, get the oil changed at the dealer. Most commonly he's not using the car brand oil as it costs too much. Rarely will you get Toyota motor oil at a Toyota dealer, same at a Ford dealer or a GM dealer. They buy what they can as cheap as possible but still within the ILSAC specifications. The important part is that the dealer is doing it and will have the maintenance records on file should you have an oil related failure. Oil related failures are rare but when they do happen, you have the dealer to stand behind you. Now if you want to get down to formulation, Pennzoil Platninum has the best formulation. Mobil One 5w-30 is still failing IVA testing which means if you are using it in a pushrod engine, your engine is having excessive cam wear. If you have a roller cam engine, it doesn't matter. If you have a modded engine, it depends on the application and use. Major difference between a NA engine and a turbo or supercharged engine in regards to oil requirements. Far too much emphasis on synthetic or a blended oil. Most folks never keep a car long enough for it to matter. But if you're happy with what you've been using, stick with it.
FWIW, Walmart is one of the largest oil change operations in the world. They take care of a lot of fleets, mostly sales cars. Many of these units will run trouble free on the cheapest Walmart branded oil they have and still are running strong at 300,000 miles.
Might also want to research the million mile Ford van. The guy used what ever he could buy on sale, changed about every 40,000 miles and still made it to 1.1 million miles. Like I say, far too much thought and far too much argument over which is the best oil. Let the dealer do it and don't worry about it.
Hyundai/Kia direct injected turbos for one. Turbo Subarus are another.
True there, I've read from multiple sources that Mobil1 shears down badly.
Personally I usually buy Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State synthetic (both are made by Shell). For high milaege oil I do like Valvoline Maxlife as well.
Hyundai/Kia direct injected turbos for one. Turbo Subarus are another.
Quote:
Originally Posted by southernnaturelover
True there, I've read from multiple sources that Mobil1 shears down badly.
Personally I usually buy Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State synthetic (both are made by Shell). For high milaege oil I do like Valvoline Maxlife as well.
Thanks for the replies. This is the first time I've ever heard such a claim and am just curious. I can't find anything about the issue.
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