Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Older vehicles? The manual for my 1989 Caprice says to change the oil every 7500 miles and the filter at 15,000.
Yes, but if you read that it probably says "under normal circumstances" i.e. almost all highway driving, no stop and go traffic, short trips, etc. Unless you drive all highway miles, most peoples cars fall under what's called "severe service" i.e. short trips, lots of city driving, doesn't fully warm up in winter, etc. And most "severe service" intervals call for the oil to be changed every 3-5k.
And as I said before, oil is cheap, cars are not, so I'll stick to changing it every 3k like I've always done. I just run conventional oil BTW, if it was synthetic I'd extend it to 5-6k, but no more. I consider clean fluids to be an "insurance policy" on my vehicle, and can't stand driving around with dirty/old fluids. If it ain't clean, it's gettin' changed!
What is the definition of deferred maintenance to you? It's hard to find a trust worthy mechanic, so often times, people will "defer" maintenance to prevent potential problems, if that makes sense? You often hear stories of the Jiffy Lube who screwed up and now the owner is out a few $K for a new this or out.
When I bought my previous car, I read all these threads who recommended changing this and that to baby the car. I brought it to a highly regarded mechanic, who poo poo'ed me and told me to bring it in once a year for synthetic oil change (based on my mileage), and maybe brake change in 25K miles. Car performed beautifully for years until it was totaled by a distracted driver.
On my current car, new mechanic says same thing, oil change once a year + transmission drain and fill every 30K miles (Fords are known for weak transmissions). Changed rotors and brakes because they were down to metal.
What other maintenance is there?
Not too much more than that to cover the big ones. If rear-wheel-drive or AWD / 4x4, then differential gear oil, transfer case fluid, etc. But air filters are important, brake fluid, etc. Basically - "fluids", and repairs as they come up.
I typically do most of my own work on my cars. Not just because I know it'll be done right and other certain steps will be taken that normally aren't by a shop (like cleaning the brake parts when changing pads/rotors instead of just replacing), but also because I like to understand how my things work. It satisfies my skeptical side.
When I change my oil, while the pan plug is still out and able to drain, I'll always sacrifice an extra quart of good oil to pour in at the top to wash out the hidden dirty still in the corners of the pan. You'd be surprised at how much gunk is still in your oil system by not doing that one little trick.
Stay on the fluids, follow the manual's recommended change intervals at a minimum, and it should be ok.
Yes, but if you read that it probably says "under normal circumstances" i.e. almost all highway driving, no stop and go traffic, short trips, etc. Unless you drive all highway miles, most peoples cars fall under what's called "severe service" i.e. short trips, lots of city driving, doesn't fully warm up in winter, etc. And most "severe service" intervals call for the oil to be changed every 3-5k.
And as I said before, oil is cheap, cars are not, so I'll stick to changing it every 3k like I've always done. I just run conventional oil BTW, if it was synthetic I'd extend it to 5-6k, but no more. I consider clean fluids to be an "insurance policy" on my vehicle, and can't stand driving around with dirty/old fluids. If it ain't clean, it's gettin' changed!
You know, just as a point of reference, I go 15K OCI on my old Scirocco. But I am using Redline oil and a Pure 1 filter. I don't have a photo of what I see when I look in through the oil fill cap, but, I can say the top of the head looks like it came out of a hot tank last week. I have to ask how much cleaner it would be if I changed more often. Although. I live out in the country so no short trips, I make damn sure the oil gets up over at least 80C any time I start it, and most trips are 40 or more miles, almost all of it in 5th gear. So I do actually meet the "regular service" rather than "severe service" conditions.
I have put over 200K miles on this car using the above maintenance schedule. It seems to run as well as ever, gets 40 MPG on summer, non-ethanol fuel.
That said, yeah, changing more often will not hurt the engine, it may be a waste of money and time, but it won't damage anything (unless you go to one of those "Stupid Lube" outfits - don't get me started on them...).
That was the interval for my 1979 Grand Prix. Still did both at 5000.
I do it when the oil is a quart low, which is usually about 6000. She's running like a sewing machine at close to 190K and, obviously, doesn't use much oil, so I must be doing something right in spite of what the OP believes.
There’s a point of diminishing return. Buy a 12-year-old, $2500 car, and make a modicum of effort at maintenance. Years pass. The shocks are worn, the alignment is dodgy, maybe the timing-belt needs to be changed, the alternator-bushings have been singing like coyotes for the past 30,000 miles, and the brake-rotors deliver a rhythmic foot-vibration. Now that $2500 car is worth maybe $1000. Should it still be maintained, or neglected and driven to catastrophic failure? I say, drive that car until the timing-belt snaps, and valves collide into pistons. Then strip the car for useful parts, tow the rest to the metal recycler for a$150 cash payout, and buy another $2500 variant of the same model.
This is the biggest crock of crap out there. Vehicles are lasting longer and longer. This isn't the 70's and 80's anymore. Even vehicles which are rated the lowest in quality are lasting well over 100K miles.
Agree completely. My 2005 Expedition (with one of those "problematic" 5.4 engines) has been relatively problem free in the 7.5 years I have owned it - now at 185K miles. I change the oil/filter every 6 months and do the rest of my own maintenance - but large SUVs are just getting broken in when they hit 100k, long after the warranty has expired.
There’s a point of diminishing return. Buy a 12-year-old, $2500 car, and make a modicum of effort at maintenance. Years pass. The shocks are worn, the alignment is dodgy, maybe the timing-belt needs to be changed, the alternator-bushings have been singing like coyotes for the past 30,000 miles, and the brake-rotors deliver a rhythmic foot-vibration. Now that $2500 car is worth maybe $1000. Should it still be maintained, or neglected and driven to catastrophic failure? I say, drive that car until the timing-belt snaps, and valves collide into pistons. Then strip the car for useful parts, tow the rest to the metal recycler for a$150 cash payout, and buy another $2500 variant of the same model.
I'm not looking to get a "return" when I purchase a vehicle, I'm looking to get the most usefulness and the longest life that I can out of it. When I get rid of it it's going to the junkyard! The only thing that kills a car in my view is excessive rust or a major car crash. The rest of the vehicle is just parts that can be replaced. I know most people don't do their own work and the labor costs are often what condemns a vehicle for them.
So if my diff pin on my 2002 Saturn blows a hole through the side of the transaxle tomorrow, I'll be putting a transmission in my car, not getting another one. The money I've saved NOT having a car payment over the last 8 years of driving is very substantial, so if my car gets totaled tomorrow I'll be able to PURCHASE (not finance) another vehicle without a problem as well.
Plan on purchasing more Saturn S-Series vehicles in the future, as the majority of the parts interchange year to year, and I have a lifetime warranty on lots of replacement parts I've already purchased. My dream is to get to the point where the bulk of the parts on my vehicle are covered by a lifetime warranty (pretty good ways there now), so the only thing repairs will cost me are my time.
Not too much more than that to cover the big ones. If rear-wheel-drive or AWD / 4x4, then differential gear oil, transfer case fluid, etc. But air filters are important, brake fluid, etc. Basically - "fluids", and repairs as they come up.
I typically do most of my own work on my cars. Not just because I know it'll be done right and other certain steps will be taken that normally aren't by a shop (like cleaning the brake parts when changing pads/rotors instead of just replacing), but also because I like to understand how my things work. It satisfies my skeptical side.
When I change my oil, while the pan plug is still out and able to drain, I'll always sacrifice an extra quart of good oil to pour in at the top to wash out the hidden dirty still in the corners of the pan. You'd be surprised at how much gunk is still in your oil system by not doing that one little trick.
Stay on the fluids, follow the manual's recommended change intervals at a minimum, and it should be ok.
Huh, I never knew brake fluid had to be changed. My mechanics never mentioned it me. How often am I suppose to do this?
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
).
