Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
2008 Hyundai, yeah, I would not put any serious money into that thing.
If it is burning oil, I would put a quart of MMO in it for a week to clean it out, then do an oil change. When you change the oil, maybe add a quart of some sort of leak-stop.
Thats surprising, 125K is nothing for cars today, especially a 2008.
i have a 2006 Hyundai but it has the 6cyl, they are known for having timing belt issues around the 120K mark, but as long as you replaces it before it breaks, these engines are good for 100s of 1000s more miles, reaching 300K is not uncommon.
WHY are they ordering a new oil pan if they "believe the engine is burning oil"? Do they believe a new pan will mystically stop oil burning? I'd want a solid reason before I paid them anything for a new pan. And if the something wrong with the pan they claim is a faulty drain plug, have they been the ones always changing the oil? If there really is something wrong with the pan, how did they determine it was burning oil and not leaking it?
I'm going to guess that nimrods at some quick-lube place cross-threaded the drain plug, and now that's leaking as well. Good questions burdell.
A real mechanic could check the big end rod bearings while the oil pan is off, maybe even replace them if needed. Not likely Firestone would have such people. Replacing the bearing inserts would not restore things to "like new", not likely, but might improve things and anyway is probably the only practical fix. Using a higher-viscosity oil (egads, go against the manual!) might help too.
Excessive clearance on the big end bearings tends to "sling" more oil onto the cylinder walls, where the oil control rings can remove only so much, so that contributes to oil getting past the rings, and burnt.
OP, with you being in rust country, this car is probably about "done" from a rust aspect anyway.
An engine that burns some oil can be a perfectly practical engine, *IF* you keep up with oil level and add as needed. If.
This car was not exactly the pinnacle of quality when it was new, OK?
Just keep it full or above the min fill line. I have had cars burn oil for years. No issues as long as there is still oil. Check it every 500-1000 miles. Use the cheap dino oil from Walmart since it will be regularly "changed".
Location: By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea
68,329 posts, read 54,381,135 times
Reputation: 40736
Quote:
Originally Posted by rstevens62
Thats surprising, 125K is nothing for cars today, especially a 2008.
i have a 2006 Hyundai but it has the 6cyl, they are known for having timing belt issues around the 120K mark, but as long as you replaces it before it breaks, these engines are good for 100s of 1000s more miles, reaching 300K is not uncommon.
I couldn't agree more! I grew up at a time when 100K was generally regarded as salvage yard territory, now it's barely break in mileage. I sold a 25 year old Lexus with 205K on the clock that burned zero oil between changes and my current 18 year old Infiniti G20 is just breaking in at a mere 127K.
Ok, I had the similar noise issue early this year in my Elantra and we thought it had something to do with oil too. Checked the oil level and it was fine. Took it to Hyundai dealer and they told me that it has something to do with rod bearing about to go bad and entire engine needs to be replaced otherwise I could lose the engine. They told me this is a common issue these days in Hyundai cars and there has been an engine recall going on because of this. They ordered a new engine and it took 4 months for engine to arrive from Korea and they took 3 weeks to install the engine.
So I would suggest getting it checked from Hyundai dealer if possible.
Same thing just happened to my sister in law on her Sonata. Hyundai was able to source the replacement engine in a week. Since she was still under warranty, they supplied rental car from time of diagnosis until repair was complete.
Step one find a real mechanic that doesn't change oil pans because the engine might be burning oil.
Step two find out what the problem is.
Step three decide what to do about it.
Could be as simple as Firestone cracked the oil pan by being negligent. As long as the well taken care of car wasn't driven with little to no oil for too long probably no lasting damage. Start taking care of the car and not driving it without oil and go another 50,000.
If the oil pan is the problem, then you should see oil spots where you park it overnight ar while at work. If it were cracked, you'ld run out of oil quick. If it's a cross threaded drain bolt, you could use Helicoil to fix that.
Does the car smoke when you first start it up or when you pull away from red lights?
I got a new engine installed in my 91 Mazda truck. It had been a good truck and I figured I could get a new engine cheaper than a comparable truck. The engine did OK for a while but started having problems and didn't hold up. The mechanic had always done good work, so I don't think it was his fault.
I would have been better off to search for a late model truck and let the Mazda go. I would never replace an engine again. Surgery too major and not worth doing.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
