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Old 07-27-2018, 12:01 PM
 
28,107 posts, read 63,396,950 times
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A headlight for older cars was very much generic... 5 to $12 at pep boys and a screwdriver.

Some newer car headlight assemblies can cost $600 to over $1000

Tires... there was a time when tires really did not break the bank... a friend got a deal on a car with Run Flats... cost her $1600 to replace... no provision for spare either.

Keep it simple is generally good advice.

Another friend bought a brand new 2006 Range Rover... a 90k car and beautiful... it was his baby.

At 100,000 miles and 10 years old he really needed a heavy duty truck... two Ford Dealers looked at the like new Rover and both were in the 4500 trade in range...

10 years and only 5% of retained value...

I know plenty of Honda and Toyota at 10 years that have nearly 50% retained value... and there you go.

Moral is maybe cutting your best deal on a new Honda or Toyota is the way to go...

Maybe buying a well maintained Luxury Vehicle used is the way to go?

EDIT... all of my postings are California cars where RUST is a non-issue.
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Old 07-27-2018, 03:10 PM
 
6,503 posts, read 3,387,372 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrarunner View Post
A headlight for older cars was very much generic... 5 to $12 at pep boys and a screwdriver.

Some newer car headlight assemblies can cost $600 to over $1000

Tires... there was a time when tires really did not break the bank... a friend got a deal on a car with Run Flats... cost her $1600 to replace... no provision for spare either.

Keep it simple is generally good advice.

Another friend bought a brand new 2006 Range Rover... a 90k car and beautiful... it was his baby.

At 100,000 miles and 10 years old he really needed a heavy duty truck... two Ford Dealers looked at the like new Rover and both were in the 4500 trade in range...

10 years and only 5% of retained value...

I know plenty of Honda and Toyota at 10 years that have nearly 50% retained value... and there you go.

Moral is maybe cutting your best deal on a new Honda or Toyota is the way to go...

Maybe buying a well maintained Luxury Vehicle used is the way to go?

EDIT... all of my postings are California cars where RUST is a non-issue.
There is a lot of truth and accuracy in what you're saying, but I will attempt to address at least a few of your concerns:

- Old headlights were sealed-beam, bulb set inside the lens, I remember them well. New headlights you replace just the bulb. Can be $20-40 for a pair of halogens, I haven't priced Xenons, LED's can be $50 on up to $200 a pair for drop-in replacement bulbs. You're correct in that a headlight housing can cost several hundred dollars. If you're in an accident, it does add a lot to the repair costs. But you'll not need to replace it for just a burnt out bulb, unless something new has been designed in the last few years.

- Run flats only need to be replaced with run flats if you still want that capability. The feature is independent of tire fit and similar sizes are made without it. It plays on people's desire for assurance they'll be able to pull off safely in the event of a puncture. A scam to add "value", i.e. pad the price. I have never requested a set of replacement tires include run-flat technology.

- Funny how Ford wouldn't touch another Ford product with a 10 foot pole. Land rovers DO depreciate very quickly, I don't know why, but you can find a 10 year old model for $4k-6k in very good condition, save for having 120k-160k on the odometer. In my opinion, there are cars you buy new, and cars you buy used. All depends on how quickly they depreciate. One thing that sets me off is seeing 12-year-old Tahoes being listed for $20,000. Now, explain that!
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:45 AM
 
79,902 posts, read 43,880,406 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddm2k View Post

- Run flats only need to be replaced with run flats if you still want that capability. The feature is independent of tire fit and similar sizes are made without it. It plays on people's desire for assurance they'll be able to pull off safely in the event of a puncture. A scam to add "value", i.e. pad the price. I have never requested a set of replacement tires include run-flat technology.
They do work so they are not a scam. They are far more than a "safely pull off the road feature". They will allow you to drive home on a flat.

There are many very valid reasons a person would purchase a set.
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Old 07-30-2018, 06:01 PM
 
6,503 posts, read 3,387,372 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pknopp View Post
They do work so they are not a scam. They are far more than a "safely pull off the road feature". They will allow you to drive home on a flat.

There are many very valid reasons a person would purchase a set.
I won't deny your logic, but my train of thought goes like this:

Most punctures in the repairable tread section of the tire are from nails, and result in a slow leak. Most slow leaks can be inflated one time, once detected, where the driver can make it to the nearest shop.

Non-pinpoint punctures, such as a piece of scrap metal that results in a wider slit, would not be able to hold air at all, even in a run flat tire. Nor would a compromised sidewall, which results in an immediate, complete loss of air pressure.
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Old 07-30-2018, 06:03 PM
 
6,503 posts, read 3,387,372 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm1982 View Post
Are people selling them for 20k though ? I doubt it . Did a quick search on Cargurus and saw many 2006 2007 Tahoe’s for about $9000-13000 and that was through dealers . Sometimes people put ridiculous high prices on cars but they aren’t really motivated to sell .
The automotive equivalent of Zillow's "Make Me Move"
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Old 07-31-2018, 05:54 AM
 
10,581 posts, read 11,996,564 times
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I don't know where you've been though. 'Cause those prices are waaaay old.

"Like new 3k and up". To my mind beaters are 3K!

Quote:
And if used car prices went up gradually I may not have noticed but it seems that prices for beaters stayed the same for years, then jumped up in 2005ish - 2010ish.



What I'm listing below, (and the slang terms associated with) was basically rule of thumb for decades (ad $100 if it's a used car lot and car lots started jacking up their prices in 1998ish about 4- 10 years before people selling cars in the classifieds did)

"parts car"= $150
"good work car"(runs good looks like crap) $350 - $400

"project car" (sports car /muscle car that doesn't run or barely runs) $400- $600


"okay condition"(normal wear and tear) $500 - $700(family sedan/ van etc) $700 - $1,000 (sports car/ muscle cars/ 4X4's)


"Like new" 3K and up.



Yes there were always exceptions like in the case of rare cars and such, but thats the pricing I saw from age 16 - mid 30's with very little change and from age 36ish - 43 those prices jumped dramatically every year. (I'm 47 now)
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Old 07-31-2018, 09:43 AM
 
Location: Riverside Ca
22,146 posts, read 33,221,774 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrarunner View Post
Yep and not legal in California unless you are liquidating an Estate as Executor or have Power of Attorney... etc.

California Vehicle Code is explicit when it comes to vehicle sales...

The big one is Seller is required to provide valid smog...

So many that buy cheap cars have a nightmare unfolding because they will not pass smog and have no way to reach the person they gave the money too as it is not the person on title.

Each and every car I have sold was titled to me... with Smog if 1976 or newer...

My first two questions when looking for a private party vehicle sale
1. Is the car registered in your name
2. Do you have a current smog certificate.

I have had the most convoluted answers to these two simple questions. I don’t bother looking much less buying the car if the answers aren’t a yes to both.
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Old 07-31-2018, 09:57 AM
 
79,902 posts, read 43,880,406 times
Reputation: 17184
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddm2k View Post
I won't deny your logic, but my train of thought goes like this:

Most punctures in the repairable tread section of the tire are from nails, and result in a slow leak. Most slow leaks can be inflated one time, once detected, where the driver can make it to the nearest shop.

Non-pinpoint punctures, such as a piece of scrap metal that results in a wider slit, would not be able to hold air at all, even in a run flat tire. Nor would a compromised sidewall, which results in an immediate, complete loss of air pressure.
I I drove home on a run flat with the entire sidewall blown out.
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Old 07-31-2018, 11:56 AM
 
Location: Washington state
6,972 posts, read 4,812,942 times
Reputation: 21741
I had a flat and had to change to the donut wheel. I ended up driving home 40 miles on that one, partly on the freeway and partly on the highway. I had my hazards on the entire time and was trying to keep under 50 (any slower and I would have been run over from behind). I'm surprised I made it to a tire store, but I'm more surprised I wasn't stopped by a cop. I hear they're pretty tough on people driving those donut tires (which I hate, by the way). I've heard of people getting ticketed for driving on them. I have no idea if it's the same way with a run flat tire.
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Old 07-31-2018, 01:26 PM
 
28,107 posts, read 63,396,950 times
Reputation: 23222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrician4you View Post
My first two questions when looking for a private party vehicle sale
1. Is the car registered in your name
2. Do you have a current smog certificate.

I have had the most convoluted answers to these two simple questions. I don’t bother looking much less buying the car if the answers aren’t a yes to both.
If the car is advertised... these are musts... or you may very well end up paying for a vehicle you cannot use.

If someone says we have a car that has not been driven in years... are you interested... then it depends but I will almost always take a look.
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