U.S. CitiesCity-Data Forum Index
Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive
 [Register]
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
View detailed profile (Advanced) or search
site with Google Custom Search

Search Forums  (Advanced)
Reply Start New Thread
 
Old 07-30-2018, 01:10 PM
 
Location: Floribama
14,762 posts, read 31,184,527 times
Reputation: 13530

Advertisements

2015 4Runner uses 0w-20 oil, and to my knowledge all 0w-20 oil is synthetic.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

 
Old 07-30-2018, 01:56 PM
 
Location: Keosauqua, Iowa
9,161 posts, read 16,566,766 times
Reputation: 12293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired in Illinois View Post
If car as been on mineral oil (regular car oil) , at this point stay with mineral oil, since your car's engine was broken in (and bearing clearances set) on mineral oil. Swapping between mineral oil and syn oil can mess up your engine , and other internal parts, causing early failures.
Bearing clearances are set by the engineer that designs the engine, and periodically checked on the assembly line by a QA dude with a stick of plastigauge. As long as you use an oil with the proper service designation for your engine, don't overheat the engine, and don't experience some sort of lubrication system failure, your clearances should remain unchanged for 100,000 miles or more.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 01:57 PM
 
352 posts, read 303,872 times
Reputation: 709
It's virtually impossible for a conventional oil to satisfy the NOACK volatility requirements of 0w-xx grades. There are syn-blend 0w oils out there (Valvoline Dura-Blend being one), but the majority I see are full synthetic.


To get to the OP's question about how good Valvoline quick lubes are, it's really dependent on the manager and employees. There are good ones, and not so good ones. That brings up a good question to assess your oil change place - you say you "stepped up" to the expensive synthetic oil. That raises flags in my mind - did they recommend a conventional oil? Or did you step up from the synthetic blend? The first would be bad, the second would be fine.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 02:45 PM
 
2,762 posts, read 3,313,944 times
Reputation: 5470
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retired in Illinois View Post
If in doubt ,which you are, always buy factory brand name parts & filters. May be more expensive but less worry about if the part / filter is ok.

On another matter...........
Stop messing with types of engine oil!!!

If car as been on mineral oil (regular car oil) , at this point stay with mineral oil, since your car's engine was broken in (and bearing clearances set) on mineral oil. Swapping between mineral oil and syn oil can mess up your engine , and other internal parts, causing early failures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by easy62 View Post
Correct stay with what fluids the factory put in after all itís their engine they made it.
The above posts are absolutely 100% false. It is never ever too late nor bad to switch between oils and synthetic is always the better choice.

These crazy myths get spread around on the internet and just seem to never die.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaErik View Post
That ridiculous myth has been busted so many times it's not even funny. You can use dino or synthetic and you can switch back and forth between the two. There are no ramifications for doing so.
Exactly, and synthetic is always the better option.


As for the OP's question about the air filter, like everything else there are good ones and bad ones. The OEM brands are always good of course and are typically made by one of the major filter manufacturers such as Wix. Wix and purolator are always two of the best. Fram is crap, along with some of the cheap ones sold at some of the big retailers.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 02:58 PM
 
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
4,205 posts, read 1,255,501 times
Reputation: 3398
Quote:
Originally Posted by dijkstra View Post
The above posts are absolutely 100% false. It is never ever too late nor bad to switch between oils and synthetic is always the better choice.

These crazy myths get spread around on the internet and just seem to never die.



Exactly, and synthetic is always the better option.


As for the OP's question about the air filter, like everything else there are good ones and bad ones. The OEM brands are always good of course and are typically made by one of the major filter manufacturers such as Wix. Wix and purolator are always two of the best. Fram is crap, along with some of the cheap ones sold at some of the big retailers.
I use semi synthetic because to keep my warranty on my vehicle oil changes every 5,000 miles or 6 months so why use full synthetic. And for your information manufacures use high quality semi or full synthetic motor oil no more regular oil that you had to change every 3,000 miles.

Last edited by easy62; 07-30-2018 at 03:12 PM..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 05:04 PM
 
Location: Wasilla, AK
7,109 posts, read 4,041,522 times
Reputation: 15101
Quote:
Originally Posted by easy62 View Post
I use semi synthetic because to keep my warranty on my vehicle oil changes every 5,000 miles or 6 months so why use full synthetic. And for your information manufacures use high quality semi or full synthetic motor oil no more regular oil that you had to change every 3,000 miles.

I use full synthetic because of the extreme cold my Alaska vehicles experience and because of the extreme heat my Arizona vehicles experience. Oil change interval is not a consideration.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 05:07 PM
 
Location: Texas
5,619 posts, read 12,930,821 times
Reputation: 10698
[QUOTEIt's virtually impossible for a conventional oil to satisfy the NOACK volatility requirements of 0w-xx grades
[/quote]


You aren't even in the ballpark with that guess. Pennzoil conventional based, cheap, yellow bottle 10w-30 motor oil has an ASTM 5800 (Noack) rating of 4.2. Try that with any synthetic, regardless of cost. Let me save you some time, you find any synthetic even close to this conventional oil. Very few will even get below 10.0 these days.
Pennzoil SAE 10W-30 API SN/ILSAC GF-5



Quote:
and to my knowledge all 0w-20 oil is synthetic
Do you have a clue how they get the spread on the viscosity? They use polymers. Any time you have a spread of over 15 viscosity points, know that the formulator has used a polymer to get the spread. Polymers are the same crap that caused many an engine to go bottoms up during the 90's with sludge caused from the polymers falling out of suspension. Be very cautious with motor oils like a 5w-40 or a 5w-50 as specified in some performance engines. You can't get totally away from polymers unless you don't have the arctic cold startups. Then I would strongly suggest using a 5w-20 and skipping the polymers altogether. Remember, the manufacturer is having to cover the base in every State. The demands are totally different between Arizona and Alaska.


Quote:
Swapping between mineral oil and syn oil can mess up your engine , and other internal parts, causing early failures.

You're about 25 years too late. At one time that was a partially true statement. But it's no longer true with any of the OTC oils. The synthetics at one time were a gas to liquid technology using an ethylene gas condensed over a noble metal like nickel. The ethylene gas is far too expensive to use for motor oil today. All of the synthetic oils are the exact same hydrocarbons that come out of the ground. They're just processed differently.



Do any of you have a clue what a synthetic oil is? Oil formulators use different basestocks to make the oils we use. You'll have the Gp I which is a solvent refined base to remove any impurities. The GpII base oils are a hydrocracked base oil. The technology is not new and is used industry wide for removing impurities in the base oils. You have the Gp III base oils which is a severely hydrocracked oil and is a liquid and gas to liquid technology. It produces a very stable base oil that is clear, like water. Gp IVs are pretty much gone as a base oil. You can find some of it used as a stabilizing agent. Mobil's Viscom is one of them. The Gp Vs are everything else including the esters. Esters are a fatty acid and alcohol reaction. They CAN add lubricity but they suck bad at handling any kind of condensation or water. Sometimes esters are used as a binding agent in the Gp III oils as the synthetic oils do not want to support the additive package and wear is increased. The formulators will also use a mineral oil as a binder. So which of the above oils are synthetic? In a dispute between Mobil and Castrol about the Gp III oils being a synthetic, The Advertising Coucil found that the Gp III oils are not found in nature so they are a man made oil. They are in fact a synthetic. But wait! The Gp II oils are also not found in nature either. That leaves only the Gp I solvent refined base oils NOT a synthetic. So be aware that some of the formulators, including some very prominent named oils, are in fact using what we labelled as conventional base oils as a synthetic.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 05:24 PM
 
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
4,205 posts, read 1,255,501 times
Reputation: 3398
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaErik View Post
I use full synthetic because of the extreme cold my Alaska vehicles experience and because of the extreme heat my Arizona vehicles experience. Oil change interval is not a consideration.
If you have a new vehicle it should be because you better follow the oil change schedule or it will nullified your warranty.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 08:54 PM
 
Location: Wasilla, AK
7,109 posts, read 4,041,522 times
Reputation: 15101
Quote:
Originally Posted by easy62 View Post
I use semi synthetic because to keep my warranty on my vehicle oil changes every 5,000 miles or 6 months so why use full synthetic. And for your information manufacures use high quality semi or full synthetic motor oil no more regular oil that you had to change every 3,000 miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaErik View Post
I use full synthetic because of the extreme cold my Alaska vehicles experience and because of the extreme heat my Arizona vehicles experience. Oil change interval is not a consideration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by easy62 View Post
If you have a new vehicle it should be because you better follow the oil change schedule or it will nullified your warranty.
Oil change interval is not a consideration in regards to the cost of synthetic oil. Sometimes the oil life monitor will indicate the need for an oil change at a little over 3000 miles. I'm still going to run synthetic regardless of how many miles I get out of an oil change. Of course, I always change my oil in compliance with the manufacturer's recommendation.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-30-2018, 10:04 PM
 
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
4,205 posts, read 1,255,501 times
Reputation: 3398
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaErik View Post
Oil change interval is not a consideration in regards to the cost of synthetic oil. Sometimes the oil life monitor will indicate the need for an oil change at a little over 3000 miles. I'm still going to run synthetic regardless of how many miles I get out of an oil change. Of course, I always change my oil in compliance with the manufacturer's recommendation.
I donít have a oil monitoring system in my vehicle Iíll continue to use what the dealership uses in their vehicles because i always let the dealer do it ,itís not much more than if i did it my self, i have changed my own oil many a time when the dealer prices were higher in the 80ís and early 90ís then they came out with their quick lube express and were open on Saturday when i had the day off. Now Iím 63 yrs old Iím not about to crawl under any car anymore been there done that but now i can afford to have the dealer do it, and i sit there have a free coffee and donuts waiting for them to finish. And Iím not a fanatic about vehicles anymore to me they are just a mode of transmission, because Iíve had so many that vehicles just donít matter that much anymore.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.

Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.


Reply
Please update this thread with any new information or opinions. This open thread is still read by thousands of people, so we encourage all additional points of view.

Quick Reply
Message:

Over $104,000 in prizes was already given out to active posters on our forum and additional giveaways are planned!

Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive
Similar Threads
Follow City-Data.com founder on our Forum or

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:29 AM.

© 2005-2019, Advameg, Inc. · Please obey Forum Rules · Terms of Use and Privacy Policy · Bug Bounty

City-Data.com - Archive 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 - Top