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Old 01-31-2019, 02:55 PM
 
170 posts, read 33,021 times
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Does anyone know how many miles a 2015 Honda Accord will last? I bought it brand new and it’s almost at 40k miles
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Old 01-31-2019, 03:35 PM
 
Location: Saint Paul
833 posts, read 340,499 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synott View Post
Does anyone know how many miles a 2015 Honda Accord will last? I bought it brand new and it’s almost at 40k miles
If you want it to last 100k miles, it will.

If you want it to last 200k miles, it will.

If you want it to last 300k miles or more, it will.

It all depends on how or whether you take care of it.
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Old 01-31-2019, 05:05 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,682 posts, read 43,660,629 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by North Beach Person View Post
I believe that the 1980ish Monza required pulling the engine to replace a spark plug (V8).

On my 68 GTO, while I am not certain it was *required*, it was certainly easier to change the two forward-most plugs on the passenger's side of the car (under that big "watermelon" A/C compressor), taking the passenger's side front wheel off helped. Look over the upper A-arm, and those plugs were looking straight back at you, easy to access with a longer extension. No universal joint or wobble required, there they were.



Most transverse V-6 front wheel drive cars, the 3 plugs in back are anywhere from a minor to major PITA to access.



Probably on the Monza, you didn't need to pull the engine, you may have needed to jack it up and maybe pull the bolt out of one or both motor mounts. The 428 CJ Mustangs were like this, and were more worth the trouble.



Sometimes the Snap-On guy will have a special tool that makes these PITA jobs a lot easier.
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:35 PM
 
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
3,488 posts, read 947,260 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
On my 68 GTO, while I am not certain it was *required*, it was certainly easier to change the two forward-most plugs on the passenger's side of the car (under that big "watermelon" A/C compressor), taking the passenger's side front wheel off helped. Look over the upper A-arm, and those plugs were looking straight back at you, easy to access with a longer extension. No universal joint or wobble required, there they were.



Most transverse V-6 front wheel drive cars, the 3 plugs in back are anywhere from a minor to major PITA to access.



Probably on the Monza, you didn't need to pull the engine, you may have needed to jack it up and maybe pull the bolt out of one or both motor mounts. The 428 CJ Mustangs were like this, and were more worth the trouble.



Sometimes the Snap-On guy will have a special tool that makes these PITA jobs a lot easier.
That’s why you have to loosen the motor mounts on a transverse V6 to tilt the motor forward to access the back plugs.
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:42 PM
 
170 posts, read 33,021 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Baustian View Post
If you want it to last 100k miles, it will.

If you want it to last 200k miles, it will.

If you want it to last 300k miles or more, it will.

It all depends on how or whether you take care of it.
What do you mean by “take care of it”
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:43 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,682 posts, read 43,660,629 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy62 View Post
That’s why you have to loosen the motor mounts on a transverse V6 to tilt the motor forward to access the back plugs.

Yeah, some GM designs have a single big bolt and even a cable that will only allow the engine to tip so far forward. Some do, I am not sure all do.


This is a good point, though, if you are going to DIY on your car, spring at least for a Haynes or Chilton shop manual. There are usually some non-obvious "tricks" that will be in the manual, these make the job much easier.
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:58 PM
 
Location: SC
8,527 posts, read 5,291,439 times
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I have no problems working on modern cars. They seem easier to me; but what does bother me is the electronics such as the instrument clusters that go bad due to cold solder joints or capacitors wearing out. These are the parts you CAN'T get at the local parts store and getting them from the dealership (if they stock them) will cost an arm and a leg.
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Old 01-31-2019, 07:01 PM
 
Location: Saint Paul
833 posts, read 340,499 times
Reputation: 939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synott View Post
What do you mean by “take care of it”
Do maintenance when it's due.

Repair stuff when it breaks.

Find a good reliable independent shop so you don't have to go to the dealership for everything.
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Old 01-31-2019, 07:03 PM
 
Location: North Beach, MD on the Chesapeake
33,079 posts, read 40,506,989 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synott View Post
What do you mean by “take care of it”
It has 40K miles on it, yes? Have you changed the oil on it at some point (actually several points by now)?
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Old 01-31-2019, 07:18 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,682 posts, read 43,660,629 times
Reputation: 12028
Quote:
Originally Posted by blktoptrvl View Post
I have no problems working on modern cars. They seem easier to me; but what does bother me is the electronics such as the instrument clusters that go bad due to cold solder joints or capacitors wearing out. These are the parts you CAN'T get at the local parts store and getting them from the dealership (if they stock them) will cost an arm and a leg.

Well, for this sort of thing, for "cult" cars anyway, you can generally find a "rebuilder" of instrument clusters, for example, or, there is always the junk yard.


If you are handy with a soldering iron, have a well-lit place to work, and some optics, and plenty of patience, you can DIY repairs. You don't need a circuit diagram, generally a "popped" capacitor can be identified visually, just replace with the same "size" (Farads) and be careful soldering the new one in. Used to get electronic small parts from Radio Shack, now you go to various online vendors.
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