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Old Yesterday, 01:08 PM
 
Location: Raleigh
7,391 posts, read 5,489,196 times
Reputation: 10129

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Actually, my biggest gripe is that even on full size sedans, there is a massive console that cramps the interior space, and you almost have to sit on the floor. Its like sitting in a cockpit. That's great on a Miata. But I don't want that in a sedan when i have a 2.5 hour drive in front of me.

The infotainment and cupholder excuse doesn't hold water for me either, nor does the shifter. Manuals are rarer than hen's teeth these days, so no reason to take up console space with a shift knob. The cupholder/storage can be incorporated into a middle seat fold down area like on a pickup truck. The infotainment can still be contained on the dash.
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Old Yesterday, 01:39 PM
 
1,119 posts, read 488,569 times
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While its true that cars are becoming smart tablets on wheels with planned obsoleteness shelf life. Though it mostly affects those who want to keep it for a long time.

The biggest concern I have is how they are removing the manual override for powered accessories. Cars up to the 2000s would have a hybrid liftgate or trunk door handle that can be opened without involving the electronic system but they can be power operated remotely as well. But today even in entry level cars there is often no mechanical door handle or button at all for the liftgate/trunk, only an electronic button so if there is a fault in the electrical system there is impossible to open the liftgate or trunk unless you can access it from the inside. Pretty much impossible if its loaded to the brim with luggage or camping supplies and the cables and other car repair kits are under the compartment.
A more scary thing is in some cars there are no manual door lock releases for people inside. So its possible to get trapped inside. In fact there have been reports of people getting trapped in cars after their power systems failed. BMW is most notorious for this.
Nowadays more and more parking brakes are powered as well, making them impossible to set or release should the electrical system goes down. This could be dangerous should the vehicle be a manual shift or have an issue with the parking prowl.
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Old Yesterday, 02:07 PM
 
17,082 posts, read 18,317,422 times
Reputation: 24726
Quote:
Originally Posted by earthisle View Post
This isn't true. Modern cars aren't any more difficult to work on than old cars, and they're far more reliable than they've ever been in history.
Well thatís debatable. I can work on newer cars but I bought the tools needed to do the diagnostics. But the difficulty level is a little higher simply doe to simply having more systems and sensors in the vehicle. Itís doable but there are a lot more systems that were not in older cars. A 1990 Chevy truck is a piece of cake to repair icmpared to a new 2019 Sileverado.

As far as reliability newer cars are more reliable but also more costly to repair or replace.
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Old Yesterday, 02:14 PM
Status: "In the chilly hours and minutes of uncertainty" (set 2 days ago)
 
Location: SF, CA
1,179 posts, read 505,689 times
Reputation: 1723
Default The biggest problem with modern cars

Ugly front ends.

Okay, maybe not the biggest problem... just a problem.
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Old Yesterday, 02:24 PM
 
4,618 posts, read 11,685,247 times
Reputation: 3146
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot1 View Post
I will say this, it is more common for cars to go higher mileage today than before, so I think you are getting more value that way. However, have you looked at the price of vehicles today? In 1971, I remember seeing advertisements for cars like the VW Bug, Pinto, and Vega for around $2,000 NEW. Adjusted for inflation that is $12,600 now. So what basic, vehicle can you buy today NEW for $12.6K? Even the lowest priced Hyundai starts at over $16K that's has wheels.

Today, even the average person is spending $30K - $40K for a basic Toyota, Honda, Ford, etc. We're not talking luxury vehicles here. Want luxury? $60K and up.
And just think about how bad those P.O.S. vehicles you list are/were. Total freaking garbage. Your lowest priced Hyundai example has more options, way more safety and will probably run trouble free to 150k or 200k miles.
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Old Yesterday, 02:25 PM
 
4,618 posts, read 11,685,247 times
Reputation: 3146
Quote:
Originally Posted by SWFL_Native View Post
Compared to when?

Even 10 years ago Accords topped out at $30k and now they are $40k+. The base price for cars might fit your equation but going to the mid-TOTL model will certainly break it. Autos are killing people on packages, Add ons, and options. That is where they make their profit!
That's the thing about OPTIONS.....you don't have to OPT for them.
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Old Yesterday, 02:26 PM
 
4,618 posts, read 11,685,247 times
Reputation: 3146
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAN View Post
Have you attempted to work on some of the modern FWD cars?


Removing an engine to replace a water pump on a Toyota 3.5L V6 or a 13 hr job to replace a water pump on Ford FWD 3.5L cars since the pump is chain driven, requiring you to take the engine apart.


How about modern transmissions with no dipsticks or the other many car parts that are almost impossible to reach.
I usually run a vehicle for about 10 years where it will have at least 150k on the odometer. Never had to replace a water pump yet.
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Old Yesterday, 02:34 PM
 
Location: Central Mass
1,707 posts, read 2,290,579 times
Reputation: 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrician4you View Post
A 1990 Chevy truck is a piece of cake to repair icmpared to a new 2019 Sileverado.
Unless you've got to do vacuum lines. Cars are much better at emissions today!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cvetters63 View Post
Let's look at some top models, instead of basic cars. My 18 year old BMW was $90k when new. The same model and spec is $100k now. With inflation factored in, it actually costs less than it used to, and you get more power, more luxury, and better fuel economy from the new one.
OR for something that hasn't changed much:
A Miata.
A 1990 cost $13800
My 97 cost $19125
A 2019 today costs $27975. All the same spec (but the 19 does come with more stuff stock, even in the stripper mode - my 97 and the 90 base cars don't have AC!)

Accounting for inflation (2018 dollars):
The 1990 costs $27213
My 97 costs $30200
A 29 still costs $27915
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Old Yesterday, 02:46 PM
 
Location: trapped in the body of a dying animal
3,359 posts, read 1,437,779 times
Reputation: 3555
1. Price.
2. Dangerously poor visibility.
2. Tiny bucket seats, giant center console.
3. Annonying, fiendishly complex, and totally unnecessary electronics. Great for selling vehicles... terrible for repairing them.

Why on gawd's green earth do we need light bulbs connected to a CAN network??

Complex designs are fine if it genuinely improves function. But I have no interest in owning a vehicle where a side mirror is a $1000 repair due to more electronics than the Space Shuttle.

I'd rather just have a mirror.
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Old Yesterday, 03:06 PM
 
31,264 posts, read 24,912,570 times
Reputation: 18115
Quote:
Originally Posted by wamer27 View Post
Company I used to run has a 2001 F250 diesel with a oil pan that looks like Swiss cheese (Common problem) Have to remove the engine to replace it. Itís a 17hr job on a plow only rusted out truck not worth much. Good luck getting it out easy, itíll take much longer then the 17hr guestimate. Truck hasnít and wonít be fixed. That and all the shops we are friends with owners, they wonít do the job.

but at this point you are stuck with, do you repair the truck or dump it and get a replacement. and eventually all vehicles get to that point.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrician4you View Post
Well thatís debatable. I can work on newer cars but I bought the tools needed to do the diagnostics. But the difficulty level is a little higher simply doe to simply having more systems and sensors in the vehicle. Itís doable but there are a lot more systems that were not in older cars. A 1990 Chevy truck is a piece of cake to repair icmpared to a new 2019 Sileverado.

As far as reliability newer cars are more reliable but also more costly to repair or replace.

i do agree with you in part. the nice thing about modern(1996 and newer) is that the computer and shop manual are a great help in doing the diagnosis. the computer tells you what system is being affected, the shop manual tells you what tests you need to run to pin point the problem.


for instance about 6 months ago i had a check engine light pop on in my merc. i hooked up my code reader and it said i had an issue on the number five cylinder, and the COP was not doing its job. since i am unable to do my own repairs these days, infirmities will do that to you, i took it to a local shop i trust, and they found that a mouse had chewed the wiring on the COP on the number 5 cylinder. and just recently i got another check engine light, it turned out to be a faulty fuel pressure sensor. but both times we were able to narrow down where the problem was quickly.
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