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Been using Castrol 10w30 (in the white containers) and Fram oil-filters (regular, orange box) in everything I've owned since 1985, with no issues whatsoever.
Granted, I don't work my vehicles hard, nor do I ever 'over-rev' them...but then I am never in a hurry to get anywhere.
Almost made the mistake of going Castrol Synthetic (green container) earlier this year, but my boss caught a glimpse of what I'd bought, and stopped me (before preparing to do an oil/filter change) by advising me that once I went from regular oil to synthetic, that I'd never be able to go back. Former bike-mechanic of mine echoed the sentiments, when I asked him if we'd ever run Synthetic in my Kawasaki, when we raced...and he said to avoid it, that we'd always run regular Castrol with no problems, whatsoever.
To this day, my 92' half-ton Silverado runs smooth & quiet with 411k on the odometer. No, it cannot 'keep up' with modern-day turbo-diesels...but it's a (stock) small-block 350...so it should'nt be expected to.
Been using Castrol 10w30 (in the white containers) and Fram oil-filters (regular, orange box) in everything I've owned since 1985, with no issues whatsoever.
Granted, I don't work my vehicles hard, nor do I ever 'over-rev' them...but then I am never in a hurry to get anywhere.
Almost made the mistake of going Castrol Synthetic (green container) earlier this year, but my boss caught a glimpse of what I'd bought, and stopped me (before preparing to do an oil/filter change) by advising me that once I went from regular oil to synthetic, that I'd never be able to go back. Former bike-mechanic of mine echoed the sentiments, when I asked him if we'd ever run Synthetic in my Kawasaki, when we raced...and he said to avoid it, that we'd always run regular Castrol with no problems, whatsoever.
To this day, my 92' half-ton Silverado runs smooth & quiet with 411k on the odometer. No, it cannot 'keep up' with modern-day turbo-diesels...but it's a (stock) small-block 350...so it should'nt be expected to.
I stick with what works.
They are both dead wrong. That’s old school thinking like the need for 3000 mile oil changes
I’ve mostly used Mobile 1 myself but it depends on the car too. A sports car/high performance car, or something I have modified beyond factory standards I use it. I never used synthetic on my Subaru, was told not too. Other then that I find a good middle of the road oil
Location: In a perfect world winter does not exist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy62
I just use what the dealer puts in.
Exactly, just go to the dealer or auto shop when they offer the loss leader oil change for 25 to 30 bucks.
All you have to endure is the upsell of other services.
Exactly, just go to the dealer or auto shop when they offer the loss leader oil change for 25 to 30 bucks.
All you have to endure is the upsell of other services.
I don’t buy what they try to up-sell me, this isn’t my first rodeo been driving since 1971 i just get the oil change.
Says who? I’ve used Supertech on a old truck since Walmart came to my area and I have 393,000 miles on it.
It is the highest grade oil. People have gotten 400,000 miles on Chrysler vehicles. It doesn't mean they are built as good as Toyota's. Same thing goes here.
Also, whatever oil you use, please don't use a Fram filter. Just don't. Sure you'll get away with it 98% of the time, but why take the chance? There are comparison websites and videos all over the internet; Frams have been shown time and again to be the WORST quality major brand out there. There's no reason to buy them.
Just about any major oil filter brand out there is better than Fram. Go with that simple rule (major brand, not Fram), and you'll end up with a decent oil filter. Though better ones are available if you're interested enough to do some simple research.
Personally I run Wix XP filters (or assorted clones such as Napa Gold),and I use the each for two oil change intervals. That'll be a controversial practice among people who have never cut open oil filters or rebuilt *hundreds* of engines like I have
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