U.S. CitiesCity-Data Forum Index
Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive
 [Register]
Please register to participate in our discussions with 1.5 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Jump to a detailed profile or search
site with Google Custom Search

Search Forums  (Advanced)
Business Search - 14 Million verified businesses
Search for:  near: 
Reply Start New Thread
 
Old 07-05-2008, 04:13 PM
 
681 posts, read 1,719,139 times
Reputation: 496
Quote:
Originally Posted by lchoro View Post
The old Fords have a problem with the ignition modules. They'll die prematurely from overheating because of the car's design. The car will just die on the road. I had it occur with my 87 Ford Escort on several occasions.
The mechanics thought that could've been the problem and they changed the ignition control module, but it didn't fix the problem.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

 
Old 07-06-2008, 07:07 PM
 
1,850 posts, read 2,944,868 times
Reputation: 1389
I occasionally had vapor lock with that car as well in its early years. Running the A/C will contribute to that problem. High summer temperatures in the DC area were another factor (as I had brought the car over from the West Coast). Having a tank full of gasoline seemed to help overcome the problem.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-07-2008, 07:33 AM
 
681 posts, read 1,719,139 times
Reputation: 496
Maybe this will make me sound like an idiot, but I don't know what vapor lock is. Can you educate me?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-07-2008, 01:12 PM
 
1,850 posts, read 2,944,868 times
Reputation: 1389
Excessive heat has caused the some of the fuel to vaporize, thus disrupting the flow of fuel to the engine. Commonly, the car can't be started because it's too hot or the car stalls out when you're idling.

Quote:
Ford® Taurus® models built between 1989 - 1995 operating in hot, ambient temperatures and/or high altitudes may exhibit reduced power, hesitation, and stalling at low vehicle speeds or idling, and a no-start condition may occur. In addition, a no-start may result while the engine is still hot and the vehicle has been parked for a short period of time. A stall may also occur on acceleration from a stop. These problems could be caused by a lack of vapor ports in the fuel pump, resulting in a vapor lock condition or internal high wear of the fuel pump components due to tank contaminants.
ALLDATA Tech Rx -- Best-in-class solutions for your automotive needs
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-08-2008, 05:37 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,745 posts, read 21,410,825 times
Reputation: 4678
Digging up your older thread - is this car # 3? If it dies on the side of the road on your way down, that can quickly turn into a PITA.

I'm a die-hard old car guy myself, but, given your situation with this car and the old truck and T-bird, you may be better off selling at least one of them in PA and then buying something else in Texas - not at all saying you need to buy new or expensive - although in most parts of Tx you probably will want A/C that works -

One other point is that I'm guessing your cars have some rust from salted winter roads. In Tx you can hardly give a rusty car away - you only see them occasionally and it's easy enough to pass on the rusty one and get a rust-free specimen - you would probably get more for them in PA where people expect an old car to be rusty.

Good luck on your move in any case!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-17-2008, 02:41 PM
 
5,108 posts, read 7,422,974 times
Reputation: 3449
My one and only foray into owning a Ford was a Ford Taurus wagon and it was so much trouble that i swear i will never own another Ford car again. (It was a 1994 or thereabouts, the first or second year the Taurus wagon came out i think)

It went through 5 sets of brakes in just a few years, and it got where I would drive up to a garage and the mechanic (any mechanic, including ones I'd never even seen before) would come out laughing and say, "Don't tell me, you're here for brakes right?" and he'd laugh real hard and tell me it's great business for him but a piece of crap car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-25-2008, 08:34 PM
 
1 posts, read 9,593 times
Reputation: 10
Default 93 Mercury Sable

Funny, but good reading all these posts. I paid $300 for my 93, 3.8liter that needed water pump, 160 thermostat, radiator cleaning, new radiator cap... By my estimations and because I've solved the overheating, lchoro above has the best answer. I changed the tranny fluid/filter and just today ordered a small tran oil filter to add on and also cut away some of the front grill to allow more air to run across the radiator and first tranny line (in front of radiator I think), but I drove today 60 hwy miles and it does shift better after the tran oil change/temp reduction BUT NOW TODAY after the long drive the coolant temp (not engine temp) got near the "N" and all of a sudden it just dies on me in the middle of the road. I started thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I'd wait a minute or 5 and it starts and runs for indeterminate times before dying again. Lucky I was within .25 mile of the house. The check engine light would come on each time and then it dies. A little cooling allowed and it starts again. Although its a 93 and I'd think they would have fixed the ignition module by the model year... I think it IS something electronic connected to "overheating" but not with coolant temp necessarily. I've worked on this myself for 2 months, home mechanic taught. I don't think this car is worth the trouble cept for short trips. Money spent on it doesn't seem to stick or fix problems but only reveal other paths of possible further expense. Hey, my tranny seems to work better now and shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 4th even when pretty hot, but now is dying while under power which is very dangerous. 4 times it died on me today in traffic, NOT GOOD. Maybe ice or freon on the ignition module will keep it running...haha My A/C hasn't even been working as a line is severed so that is not a possible problem (front engine mount wore out so engine tilts abruptly about 2inches and think this cut the line perhaps) so going from Drive to Reverse one has to be careful!! I'd rather have a Dodge (which I have never owned!) I've searched the net and read about the many customer problems of this car and even used a sealer for a possible head gasket leak after flushing the rust which seemed to help but never have seen any water in the engine oil, but it uses oil like I've never seen maybe running out from the rear valve cover gasket onto the rear manifold so I keep a quart handy, very handy... I'm gonna trade it off... Push, Pull or Drag for my sake! God wouldn't even drive this piece of sh*t. lol

Good luck to all of us Found On Road Dead people. lol

Last edited by vttrader; 07-25-2008 at 08:44 PM.. Reason: additional explanation
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 02-20-2010, 10:23 AM
 
1 posts, read 7,505 times
Reputation: 15
Ok, I had the same problem and me being the Mr. Fix it guy I refused to take it to a garage. Since I figured it was the power control module under the hood. I removed the cover and while running I started tapping the relays.....Voila, relay #31 which is the power control module (PCM) relay was the issue. When I tapped it, the car died. Sometimes I could restart, sometimes not. $13.00 part fixed the problem. Best car I have ever owned. The PCM relay is a workhorse and will deteriorate over time. easy fix.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 05-14-2010, 05:42 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
8,745 posts, read 21,410,825 times
Reputation: 4678
Quote:
Originally Posted by tewlman View Post
Ok, I had the same problem and me being the Mr. Fix it guy I refused to take it to a garage. Since I figured it was the power control module under the hood. I removed the cover and while running I started tapping the relays.....Voila, relay #31 which is the power control module (PCM) relay was the issue. When I tapped it, the car died. Sometimes I could restart, sometimes not. $13.00 part fixed the problem. Best car I have ever owned. The PCM relay is a workhorse and will deteriorate over time. easy fix.
OUTSTANDING first post. Welcome to the forums, BTW. Good work finding the relay. When a car is running right and then "quits" suddenly, it's normally just one component and generally the answer is simple.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 08-10-2010, 05:08 PM
 
1 posts, read 6,607 times
Reputation: 10
Default Another cause for intermittent cutout

Another thing that can cause a car to cut out intermittently, is bad electrical connections. Though these can be anywhere under the hood, anyone can deal with the most obvious ones: Disconnect the cables that attach to the battery, then clean the surface of the cable connector that makes contact with the battery posts, and clean the battery posts themselves, then reattach the cables. Also check other obvious battery cable connections, primarily the battery's ground connections to the car's chassis, etc. for looseness.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.

Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.


Reply

Quick Reply
Message:


Over $79,000 in prizes was already given out to active posters on our forum and additional giveaways are planned!

Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > Automotive
Similar Threads

All times are GMT -6.

© 2005-2014, Advameg, Inc.

City-Data.com - Archive 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 - Top