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I had a shop put in a new AC system 2 years ago in a honda CRV, honda parts. It never really worked right. The 20A fuse for the AC condenser kept blowing. They once said they replaced a faulty wire and it was fixed but it wasnt and the fuse kept blowing.
Recently I brought it in again, prior to going to the shop, the AC would turn on and the fuse would blow sporadically.
They diagnosed it and said that the AC does not turn on (weird because it used to turn on before I brought it in) and they traced it back to the ECM computer and that it is not putting out a signal for the AC correctly and the relay wont turn on for that. Also indicated a likely short in that wire. estimate 1200 repair cost. I declined.
When I got home I looked in the fuse box for the AC condenser and found a 30A fuse in the 20A rated fuse location, they put this in there. This seems very wrong and could cause an overload making new problems.
What could the possible result of this larger fuse be. Could it have caused the problem they are diagnosing, frying a part of the ECM and the wire connected?, what else could this have done? I assume it could have also fried the AC condenser.
Lastly, is there any recourse for me here if they don't fix it at cost to them, small claims court, etc. Seems like I might be screwed because they could just say I put that fuse in there.
I'd have used a 25A but the 30A will blow as well. I don't feel it would damage the ECM, there's plenty of circuit protection in systems now.
Whatever the cause (a short, the fan motor pulling too many amps, poor connection somewhere in the wire loom) this can hardly be construed as their fault.
Intermittent electrical problems are the most difficult to track down.
Putting in a larger fuse than what is supposed to be in there can complicate things if indeed there is something wrong, although sometimes is done during troubleshooting purposes/closely monitored to see how quickly it will blow as opposed to a 20 amp. But said fuse should not be left in there for the customer to take home.
My advice - take your vehicle somewhere else.
A fuse that continuously blows when the power is switched on indicates excessive current draw, and that can come from something such as a positive wire grounding out somewhere. (i.e. pinched against a bare piece of metal) However, most cars I've seen use I believe a 25 amp fuse on the a/c system.
However, no a 30 amp fuse cannot fry an a/c condenser - the condenser is part of the refrigerant group, not the electrical group.
$1200 for repairs? What all did they say was wrong?
Putting in a larger fuse than what is supposed to be in there can complicate things if indeed there is something wrong, although sometimes is done during troubleshooting purposes/closely monitored to see how quickly it will blow as opposed to a 20 amp. But said fuse should not be left in there for the customer to take home.
Thanks for the advice
What are potential complications? Could it cause the problem to the ECU? I have seen other non car related electrical equipement get totally destroyed, fried circuit components, due to wrong fuses being put in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deez Nuttz
$1200 for repairs? What all did they say was wrong?
They said the ECU was not functioning propery and they would replace it (700 part) as well as the wire leading to the A/C from it. $250 of the total was for diagnosing the problem in the first place which I have already paid. I also have already spent over 2000 in that shop to replace most of the A/C system as there was a leak. And the car was only 4 yrs old. sucks.
What really irks me, and I just dont understand, was that before I brought it to the shop for this recent diagnosis, it used to actually work. Change the fuse and the system would function for a week or so until the fuse blew again. But now, the a/c system wont turn on at all and compresser doesnt even run.
If so, you might want to check the resistor pack. It's relatively easy and cheap to replace. On cars that I own/have owned, it's very accessible and it took nothing about a few screws to get to it and a couple more to undo.
If so, you might want to check the resistor pack. It's relatively easy and cheap to replace. On cars that I own/have owned, it's very accessible and it took nothing about a few screws to get to it and a couple more to undo.
It says AC Condenser in the main fuse box in the engine, where is this resistor pack located, how do you access it? I am not sure this is it anyhow because the compressor is not turning on.
Im no ac expert but if it had a fuse to small and was blowing it I would say its the fuse as the problem .If its blowing a fuse only 10 amps higher than it is suppose to be THERE IS A PROBLEM AND THE FUSE HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT.
Hmmm, I don't think AC condenser had electrical component to it. Maybe AC compressor instead ?
Right, the A/C compressor does have an electrical clutch that when energized locks up to allow the pulley to spin the compressor shaft.
When not locked up it just free wheels.
Not sure if the compressor clutch is on the same circuit or not as the fan blower motor. (I don't think it would be, but...) I'd need a schematic before me to tell.
OP does the fuse blow any time the blower motor is switched on even if it's not in a/c mode?
OP does the fuse blow any time the blower motor is switched on even if it's not in a/c mode?
That I dont know. I think it was when it was in a/c mode and the compressor kicked in, but now the compressor wont even start so its seems I am worse off.
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