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The "Alloy" rim, is for looking "cool", it does nothing more than the steel rims in that they hold the tire on the car/truck and the extra money that is spent to buy them. You go no faster, ride is the same... unless you are in the racing circuit and the few pounds different may keep you in second place!
Actually, the alloy rim is not purely for asthetics.
The reason is to reduce unsprung weight per suspension point. Less weight means better fuel economy. The use of lighter suspension components, like aluminum control arms, also add to the weight savings. The EPA is pushing manufacturers to increase their CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) and making cars lighter is the key to that. Steel rims are better, IMO, but they do weight a bit more.
The big dubs (giant rims) you see on cars and trucks are actually doing more harm than good. The increased loads on the rotating assemblies are making for early hub bearing failures. Ask any part store how many wheel hubs they sell now. It's a big problem with guys and their trucks, especially when you put 22 or 24 inch rims on something that only called for 16 or 18. Looking cool after spending thousands and then having to make major repairs down the road? Not for me!!
As for racing, NASCAR uses steel rims still. Stronger is better for them. Other series may use alloys, but steel holds up better under immense loads.
Alloy wheels , are today mostly aluminum , ether cast , or forged. Forged is best , and the major MFG is Alcoa Aluminum. It is not uncommon for cast wheels to split apart , under side stress. For light truck,-motorhomes , heavy duty trucks and trailers , Alcoa has the market covered quite well.
A nice polished alum. wheel adds a lot to the looks of a vehicle , especially one that is commercial in nature, and requires a strong wheel , that can not be easily covered up with a wheel cover. The biggest advantage besides looks , is they don't rust, requires no painting , and often are better balanced than steel , right from the factory. The lighter weight factor is not that big a deal , in smaller sizes.
As for racing, NASCAR uses steel rims still. Stronger is better for them. Other series may use alloys, but steel holds up better under immense loads.
You could make an aluminum rim just as strong as a steel rim. What happens when you crash with a steel rim vs aluminum (or even magnesium)? NASCAR wants the wheels to stay on the cars (and not go flying into the audience). An aluminum wheel has a tendency to break instead of bend. If a driver bumped the wall at 200mph and broke the center out of an aluminum wheel it would make a very good projectile. That's not to say that it couldn't happen with a steel rim but it's not as likely to happen as it is with aluminum. Steel has more of a tendency to bend.
Steel is also cheep. Ever seen how many tires & wheels Goodyear brings to the track?
185 is the hieght of the tire 85 is the width 14" is the wheel size
WRONG. Not only did you explain it backwards, you got the numbers wrong as well.
It breaks down like this.
185, is the width of the tire in milimeters.
65, is the aspect ratio, or "profile height", which means that the tire's sidewall height is 65% of the tire's width.
14 is the wheel size that the tire fits.
"R" stands for Radial tire, which is the most common tire out there today.
There are other numbers and letters on a tire that aren't as important, but I'll explain them anyhow.
On some heavy duty truck tires, you might see the letters, "LT" instead of "P" before the size numbers. This indicates it's a light truck tire, and usually has a corresponding load range letter, usually from "C" to E", C being the lowest load range, E being the highest, and sumarily, the ply ratings and pressures vary as well. By the way, the "P" you see on most car tires before the numbers, indicates that it is a passenger car tire.
You might also see the letters "M+S" This means the tire is rated for mud and snow.
Also after the size numbers, you might see a number something like "97 V"
This is the speed rating of the tires. The speed at which it's no longer safe to be driving them over.
Also, in really small numbers and letters near the tire bead, you will find the "DOT" numbers. These indicate a series of code, stating what the tire is, how, where and when it was manufactured.
WRONG. Not only did you explain it backwards, you got the numbers wrong as well.
It breaks down like this.
185, is the width of the tire in milimeters.
65, is the aspect ratio, or "profile height", which means that the tire's sidewall height is 65% of the tire's width.
14 is the wheel size that the tire fits.
"R" stands for Radial tire, which is the most common tire out there today.
There are other numbers and letters on a tire that aren't as important, but I'll explain them anyhow.
On some heavy duty truck tires, you might see the letters, "LT" instead of "P" before the size numbers. This indicates it's a light truck tire, and usually has a corresponding load range letter, usually from "C" to E", C being the lowest load range, E being the highest, and sumarily, the ply ratings and pressures vary as well. By the way, the "P" you see on most car tires before the numbers, indicates that it is a passenger car tire.
You might also see the letters "M+S" This means the tire is rated for mud and snow.
Also after the size numbers, you might see a number something like "97 V"
This is the speed rating of the tires. The speed at which it's no longer safe to be driving them over.
Also, in really small numbers and letters near the tire bead, you will find the "DOT" numbers. These indicate a series of code, stating what the tire is, how, where and when it was manufactured.
Hope I answered your questions.
Now , heres more; LT does not mean " heavy duty truck " , it means light duty truck , as in pick-ups , SUVs , and Motor homes ( small ), also trailers. there are special tires designed for trailers , but , they mostly are referring to tread design, otherwise , they are LT tires. An E rating means a 10 ply tire, which you will find on most 3/4 ton trucks on up . Typical PSI on these tires run70 to 90 PSI. never put ' P" tires on any light duty vehicle , including trailers. The side walls are not very strong . They are intended for a soft ride as on a passenger car, and , will fail under loaded , and or hot temperatures.
M/S ( mud and snow ) tires are , not snow tires. Snow tires have a specific application in snowy parts of the country, and are not normally sold elsewhere. Included in this group are studded tires , which can be illegal in some states , and at specific times of the year.
Now , heres more; LT does not mean " heavy duty truck " , it means light duty truck , as in pick-ups , SUVs , and Motor homes ( small ), also trailers. there are special tires designed for trailers , but , they mostly are referring to tread design, otherwise , they are LT tires. An E rating means a 10 ply tire, which you will find on most 3/4 ton trucks on up . Typical PSI on these tires run70 to 90 PSI. never put ' P" tires on any light duty vehicle , including trailers. The side walls are not very strong . They are intended for a soft ride as on a passenger car, and , will fail under loaded , and or hot temperatures.
M/S ( mud and snow ) tires are , not snow tires. Snow tires have a specific application in snowy parts of the country, and are not normally sold elsewhere. Included in this group are studded tires , which can be illegal in some states , and at specific times of the year.
Yeah, I didn't really feel the need to get that in depth, but you're right. You don't know how many times i've seen a 3/4 ton truck come in my shop with "P" tires on it. I make sure I scolded the owners for being so stupid.
1.Where do you measure the width of the tire since I converted that a 14" wheel is about 355 millimeters,so how is the millimeters only 185 for the width of the tire?
2.Where do you starts and finish measuring the width of the sidewall?
3.I forgot the answer,but why is steel wheels better for the winter? And aluminum wheels is good for the summer?
4.I don't get the Radial construction of a tire,can someone explain the construction in plain English?
1. I honstly don't know if the 14" wheel/tire means the ID of the tire or the OD of the wheel. Not important, the wheel is normally marked and if it's not a 14, the closest are 13 and 15, you can easily tell the difference. The tire sidewall is marked, for example 185-70R14.
2. I think you mean the height of the sidewall. If you measure them, you will find that different models and brands of, say, 185-70R14 tires, which should have a sidewall 70% of 185mm, you will get different measurements on different makes and model of the "same" size tire. So long as you get 4 tires all alike, it won't matter.
3 Steel for winter since they will bend rather than beak when (not if) you hit a legendary upper-midwest pothole. Alloy is better, usually, if this is not an issue, since aluminum is bulkier than steel, and a physically larger engineered structure generally has a better stress distribution, you get better strength for the weight.
4 Radial tires. Almost all car tires are radial anymore, just Google "Radial Tire" and read up. It's about the internal structure and how the tire is made. Again not much practical significance.
Don't get me wrong, these are good questions to explore theoretically, but only #3 has practical significance.
1. I honstly don't know if the 14" wheel/tire means the ID of the tire or the OD of the wheel. Not important, the wheel is normally marked and if it's not a 14, the closest are 13 and 15, you can easily tell the difference. The tire sidewall is marked, for example 185-70R14.
2. I think you mean the height of the sidewall. If you measure them, you will find that different models and brands of, say, 185-70R14 tires, which should have a sidewall 70% of 185mm, you will get different measurements on different makes and model of the "same" size tire. So long as you get 4 tires all alike, it won't matter.
3 Steel for winter since they will bend rather than beak when (not if) you hit a legendary upper-midwest pothole. Alloy is better, usually, if this is not an issue, since aluminum is bulkier than steel, and a physically larger engineered structure generally has a better stress distribution, you get better strength for the weight.
4 Radial tires. Almost all car tires are radial anymore, just Google "Radial Tire" and read up. It's about the internal structure and how the tire is made. Again not much practical significance.
Don't get me wrong, these are good questions to explore theoretically, but only #3 has practical significance.
When you say the "same" tire size,does that mean by 14" wheel or 15" wheel or something else?
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